My truck has a 3.0 V6. It starts great. High idle comes up just like it's suppose to. The problem is the intermediate warm up. It runs great when it is completely warm. It starts good, I can drive it 3 or 4 blocks, then it stumbles and has poor acceleration. After a few miles, when it completely warms up, it runs great. It kind of runs like the choke came off too soon.(old car problems) I know this doesn't have a choke, but I'm not sure how the cold start system works on this vehicle.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: runs poorly while warming up
Auto choke controled by the hot water system,sounds like someone has disconnected the pipes somewhere along the line as they were leaking,on or around the carb should be a round thing with two water pipes and inside is a bi-metal strip,which is most likely working but with no water through it or through the inlet manifold to preheat the petrol vapour hence your problem.soloution buy a small engined europen type vehiclelike a kangoo or berlingo and recycle the gas guzzler you have now.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Change the temperature control sensor to the front if the engine near radiator 1 start the truck let it run till you think it is at normal operating temperature 2 unplug the temp sensor if the idle changes then the sensor is bad
This sounds like the RPM may be a little high, but normal operation is called a "cold start routine". Like the old fashion Choke, the "cold start routine" is suppose to increase the RPM for several minutes and then decrease to running idle speed. This will engage in each "cold" start, but not on a warm engine. It is designed to do this.
Usually when an engine runs higher RPM than it is set for, it means extra air is entering the engine from somewhere. Using a spray water filled bottle, go around seams and also spray vacuum lines and the EGR pod while the engine is running. Any openings will draw in the water and affect RPM. Then you will have found the leak.
Now you can look up you exact engine on the Web and find out 2 things. If it has a 2 piece intake manifold and if it has intake Manifold runners. The 2 piece design often failed when the gasket holding the 2 halves started dissolving. The intake runners, could stick out of position and make RPM higher.
Now aside from these 2 items, you might get a Code showing that the engine is running lean. This would actually not be showing the lack of fuel, but the overabundance of air coming from the leaks.