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The passenger side axle shaft is the longer of the two. It is more prone to this problem since it is more unwieldy to handle. Chances are you did not get the axle shaft seated completely when you installed it. There is a snap ring on the spline that inserts into the transaxle and this ring must lock into its seat or the inner joint will vibrate loose and come out. It is fairly easy to seat it when installing, but care must be taken to avoid damage to the axle shaft. Once you insert the spline into the transaxle, press it firmly inward until you feel resistance. Then pull back on the axle shaft about 2 inches, but no more than that. You don't want to separate the inner boot or unseat the inner tri-pot bearings. Then, push the axle shaft forward quickly and firmly, much like a slide hammer. This will snap the shaft into the seat. You will feel it when it seats in. If once doesn't do it, repeat as necessary.
Is the fluid level high? Most of the time when you have a no pull condition it is a stripped pump shaft or the pump drive splines in the torque converter. Cold also be a stripped or broken axle ( will roll in park if this is the case) or a problem with the forward clutches or splines bad on lower planetary. So unless an axle is bad the transmission will need to come out to be repaired.
Axle may not be engaged in output splines. Axle should click when spring clip reaches indent. Jack wheel with car in park and see if wheel will turn. If yes, axle is not fully installed. Let me know if you have more questions.
It sounds like you might have blown an axle. Especially if there has never been any transmission problems before. You said the fluid looks fine, and by that I take it to mean the fluid is clean and red, and its full. A blown axle will make the click noise, as the splines on the end of the axle are trying to mesh with the splines inside the transmission. The problem could be in the trans., but I'd pull the axles out first and check them, as axles are a lot cheaper and easier to change than a transmission.
Yes ,it should just pop off.Have someone pull a little on it while you tap on the axle.There is an inside shaft that the outer shaft slides onto and there is a c-clip holding the two together. Sometimes the inner shaft pulls out with the outer axle if the clip doesnot release.If this happens you'll have to be carefull putting the inner shaft back in,because there is a washer at the end that may fall down and the axle willnot go back in.There is a pilot bearing at the end inside that the tip of the inner axle goes into and just before it is where the washer is.
i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.