Car was running fine. Now, won't start. Removed the PCM/IGN fuse also PCM/Bat fuse and replaced with ignition and on position. Now, car won't start. Battery relays, fuses and fusealble links are all in working order.
Check the wires to the distributer or to the modules could be poor or no conection. If you can turn the car over but no spark it's probably something to do with ignition, distributer, module, or wiring to the ignition.
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You have a direct short to ground on that power feed circuit . You need to find a power distribution diagram to see what all gets is power from that fuse . Isolate the circuits till the fuse doesn't blow any more , then trace out that circuit that blows the fuse .
Which Ignition fuse ? Which fuse box is it in ? under hood , passenger compartment ?
Ignition Switch RUN, START, RUN/START/ACCY
Ignition Switch RUN/ACC, RUN/START
Could be ignition switch problem , Chevy has had problems with them .
Did you check your CKP and CMP power wires for a short to ground? Short to ground up stream might be pulling the voltage low from the PCM. Also.. have you pulled up the underhood fuse block just to see if there's any rodent damage to the wiring under there? That's a pretty common spot for rodents to cause problems.
No. it is absolutely impossible that a fuse could be the CAUSE of your problem.
There may be a blown ignition fuse, but if there is, the FUSE did NOT cause it.
Please read these articles: Where's The Fuse? What Else Could Be Wrong?
To find out what is going on with your truck, proper diagnosis should be performed. You should check for spark at the spark plugs, check for fuel pressure on the fuel rail, check for injector pulse from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) at the injectors, and scan your PCM for fault codes.
I live in Australia & have a Hyundai Grandeur XG 3LT V6 2002 model (US equivalent is Hyundai XG300). Fault codes are P1118 (ETS motor fault) & P1178 (ETS motor battery voltage open). An intermittent fault. The first code denotes general area of the fault & the second code denotes the specific fault. So the specific fault is that the ETS-PCM computer is not receiving 12V on pin 2 with ignition on. 'Check engine' light remains on & car is in 'limp home mode' with very little power & poor performance. I had purchased the Hyundai service manual online (ebook about $8) for the US model. Could not find any manual for the Australian model. On page FLA-52 found the block diagram for the whole ETS system. I am a retired electrical engineer so now it became easier for me to find the fault. There are 2 computers behind the center console. PCM & ETS-PCM. Pin 2 of the ETS-PCM should have 12V present when ignition is on. In fault mode 12V was not present. This 12V is supplied from ETS 15A fuse (fuse box under dashboard) via a relay (i will call this relay the ETS relay). The 15A fuse was OK but the 12V was only intermittently being passed through the relay points. Relay is located near ignition switch on a sub panel which has about 6 relays on it. ETS relay was at right bottom corner of sub panel. Yellow wire feeds the 12V (which is always present even with ign. switch off) to the relay points. White wire is the output wire from the relay points which feeds 12V to pin 2 of the ETS-PCM computer. Measure if 12V is present at white wire when ign. switch is turned on (no need to start engine) I only had the 12V present intermittently. So pulled out the ETS relay - tested contacts with ohmmeter & found to be only making contact intermittently when relay lever depressed - removed relay case by grinding away one corner of the case - cleaned the relay points with fine sandpaper. replaced the relay case & taped with black insulating tape to keep out dust. Tested relay with ohmmeter & points now OK. Fault is now cleared & car is operating normally. Also had previously purchased on Ebay a Can OBD11 scanner for $15 which read the fault codes OK. Hope this helps other people with similar problem.
No injector pulse at injectors: a) check fuses b) use scan tool to read RPM at PCM while cranking. Ask question specifying RPM PID data. c) crank sensor/cam sensor/ign. module/wiring fault d) stuff not plugged in properly 4) check fuses 5) dead PCM note PCM pulses injector ground based on sensor input, power is constant from ignition how are you testing injectors theres something called a noid light auto parts store let you use them free you have to test it on the injector itself what did you car do before it died does it turn over but not start
Sounds like the ignition switch not sending power to the starter OR power to the IGN "on" circuit. But before you jump into that check the MAIN fuses in the fuse box under the hood. Also check any fusible links that may have burned...these are a wire that is designed to "burn" like a fuse. They are attached to the positive side of the starter solinoid, also when you check that don't forget to make sure the nut retaining the positive BAT wire is tight on the solenoid.
There was a problem in the 96 luminas with the Ignition relay in the under hood fuse box.
I would try trading the Ignition relay with a matching relay in the fuse box and see if the problem goes away, make sure you mark the old ignition relay so you can find it later. If the problem stops, purchase a new relay and replace the old one.
Below is a schematic of your under hood fuse block.
Good luck, let me know.