Brakes do not work until pedal is depressed almost to floor.
-Gave out suddenly.
-Seemed to be a loss of pressure in the system, it reminded me of driving with broken brake lines which happened to me once before.
-Brake resevoir is still full of fluid after parking the car for several days. No fluid on floor of garage.
-Could this be due to a broken pump?
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is very difficult to diagnose this problem with the little bit of information you gave. If the brakes are drum brakes check to see if the brake cylinder is working and has no leaks, lift the rubber seals and make sure there are no leaks there, check the brake adjuster make sure that works okay. If everything works and you bled the brakes properly, then the problem is most likely is the master cylinder or the wheel cylinder.
While bleeding the brakes always make sure you check the master cylinder reservoir to make sure the fluid level is up so you do not get air in the brake lines. When bleeding the brakes did you have someone press down hard on the brake pedal hold the pressure on the brake pedal when opening the bleeder then push the brake pedal to the floor keep it there, until you tightened the bleeder, then pump the brakes up and hold it there, while you repeated the bleeding operation by opening the bleeder when the brake pedal go\'s to the floor keep the pedal down until you tighten the bleeder and then pump the brake pedal back up then check the fluid level in the reservoir, keep doing it until the brake fluid shows no sign of air.
If the brake pedal is pumping up during the bleeding process and you made sure you got all the air out of the brakes and then the pedal go\'s to the floor, make sure the fluid level is correct in the reservoir and the bleeder is closed tight and there are no leaks in the lines, wheel cylinder, brake cylinder the brake adjuster is working and master cylinder, and if you still have no brakes then it must be a defective piston in the wheel or brake cylinder, if there is a seal problem with the pistons you will not get any pressure to push the brake fluid. let me know how you are doing.
you have someone helping you right? cuz you cant do it yourself, and the brakes need to be pumped only enough to get a solid midway stop of pedal travel, and with the brake still depressed by your assistant, you open the bleeder a bit until the pedal goes to the floor, you tighten bleeder, they then release brake pedal and pump it up again, rinse, repeat, until there is no spongy feel in brake pedal
To reset the oil change reminder light with the accelerator pedal, turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do not start engine. After turning the ignition ON, depress the accelerator pedal fully to the floor and let it up again 3 times within 5 seconds. The oil change reminder light should flash a few times to let you know that it is resetting. If it does not flash, turn the switch OFF and repeat the procedure. After it flashes, turn the ignition switch OFF. Then start the engine. The light should come on for a bulb check then go out and stay out.
You may have air in your braking system. You will need to bleed your brakes.
Some people say it is ok to just bleed the front brake that is on the same side as the master cylinder. I personally feel that all 4 brakes should be bled.
On each caliper/drum there should be a small nipple type fitting with a (usually) 8mm nut at its base. Loosening this nut will allow brake fluid to seep from the nipple opening.
Work with a partner. Remove your first wheel of the brake to be worked on. Loosen the 8mm nut. Have your assistant depress the brake pedal steadily to the floor and hold. If a steady stream of fluid comes out tighten the nut and move on to the next brake. If the brake fluid comes out sputtering with air, tighten the nut after your assistant depressed the brake (but ensure they kept the pedal to the floor). Have them take their foot off the brake. Loosen the nut again and have them depress the brake fully again. Repeat until steady stream of fluid comes out with no air.
Do this for all 4 brakes.
Once complete refill the reservoir to the recommended fill line.
usually an indicator of either a loss of pressure due to low fluid and/or air in the system (brake fluid leak) or extremely worn rear brakes (if drum brakes in rear). possible causes include master cylinder (internal fluid pressure leak), external fluid leaks (calipers, lines, wheel cylinders), rear drum brakes extremely worn down or severely out of adjustment. normally worn disc brakes may reduce pedal height SOME, but seldom "to floor". but the "mushy" quote combined with the "floor" quote suggests a hydrolic fluid pressure problem.
Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.