'99 Ford Windstar heater investigation turned into dead car
I disconnected the battery and disassembled the console to get at the heater core, and now after reassembling everything the battery got drained and is now dead, and won't even jump.
I disconnected the battery (negative),
I drained the radiator coolant,
I disassembled the center console,
(removed radio, heat+a/c controls, panels),
removed cowling from engine compartment,
unscrewed the heater core cover,
looked at the heater core,
unclamped the hoses to/from the heater core,
couldn't pull the hoses free,
decided that the heater core looked okay and that I should reassemble and reassess,
reassembled center console,
reconnected battery negative cable.
At this point the car alarm went off. I didn't have a working key fob
(e.g., clicky remote door unlock) to shut the alarm off with.
I was unable to start the car; the "alarm" light flashed rapidly in
the "run" key position and when moving key to "start" the starter
rattled with a sharp noise, different than the usual
I tried various key connections. I removed the negative battery cable and reconnected it. I flipped the little toggle that is used to re-sync the key fob back and forth.
I left the car unplugged overnight at this point. When I came back,
I reconnected the battery. The "run" key position lights had changed;
all I got was a dim red light up at the top (battery light?) The
starter would not turn over or rattle.
I left it overnight again, and realized that the negative cable was
pushed down onto the contact but not screwed on tight. I thought that
if it was loose that might explain the weak battery power. I screwed it
on tight but there was no change. In fact, at this point the car was
dead. No lights, no anything with the key in the ignition.
I have tried to jump the car. I have left it sitting for a 1/2 hour
with the other car jumped over to it. There was no change at all.
The battery is less than 2 years old, by the way.
What would cause this, and how to fix it?
It seems to me that the problem is at the battery level, since the
battery drained when the car sat without a key in it. I do not see any
obvious cause for this.
I would appreciate any tips or pointers. (Help!!!)
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Re: '99 Ford Windstar heater investigation turned into...
You seemed to have one problem then you developed another one. Here is my suggestion that loudscreeching sound mean that you have a bad flywheel or at-least in one spot. If you manually turn fly wheel all the way around you should see chip in the teeth/gears of the flywheel. The other problem is during all the connections back and forth with the battery you may have blown the battery/main fuse,or may have burnt a fusible link, replace and you should re-gain power to start. If flywheel is damaged turn the damage part away from the starter and the vehicle should start with out screeching. Godd Luck contact if you need more help
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Drain the Camry's engine coolant, using a clean container for reuse. Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait a minute and a half for the airbag system to de-energize. Discharge and recover the air conditioner refrigerant.
2Disconnect air conditioner suction hose and liquid pipe, then clamp on the tubes with an SST clamp. (Make sure you don't deform the tube). Disconnect the heater core hoses.
3Disassemble every component of the dashboard, starting with the steering wheel and column. Removal includes the door scuff plates, cowl side trim, console panels and air bags. You'll need a second person's help to remove the dashboard from the interior.
4Remove or disconnect all air ducts, the heater blower assembly, lower defroster nozzles, air conditioning radiator assembly. Remove the mode damper servo sub-assembly and Airmix damper servo sub-assembly, then remove the core from the air conditioner assembly.
5Install the replacement heater core into air conditioner assembly. Reassemble all components of the heating/air conditioning unit, dashboard and dashboard components. Connect the heater core and A/C suction and pressure hoses, lubricating the O-rings with compressor oil.
6Attach the negative battery cable, fill the cooling system and evacuate and recharge the air conditioner. Start up the engine and check for leaks in the system.
This is a job best left to a pro. The heater core is in the HVAC box, under the dash. You need to COMPLETELY disassemble the dash to access the HVAC box. Usually you need to remove the front seats, drop the steering column and remove the center console [if it has one] for access to remove the dash. You also have to drain the radiator & A/C system. Reassembly will require access to an A/C vacuum pump and gauge/hose set. This job will take a pro about 8 hours to do. Sorry, but most Ford cars are a real bit*h for the amateur mechanic to do. Once you have everything apart, you can acually see the rear side of the firewall!
If coolant is leaking from the heater core into the interior or through a weep hole out of the car your heater core has sprung a leak.
Most vehicles have easily accessible heater cores, only requiring removal of a panel under the dash or hood to gain access. On the '97 Skylark it's accessible under the dash.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle.
Detach the drain tube, then disconnect the heater hoses from the core tubes.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Remove the console if equipped.
Unfasten and remove the sound insulators, console extensions and/or steering column filler, as required.
Remove the floor or console outlet ductwork and hoses.
Remove the heater core access cover.
Unfasten the heater core mounting clamps/bolts, then extract the heater core from the vehicle.
Install the heater core, then secure using the clamps/bolts.
Fasten the heater core cover.
Connect the outlet hoses and ducts.
Install the sound insulators, console extensions and/or steering column filler.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Install the drain tube and connect the heater hoses to the core tubes.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for leaks and check coolant level. Add if necessary.
Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio and the navigation system, and then write down the audio presets.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
From under the hood, disconnect the heater valve cable from the heater valve. Turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position.
When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator.
Disconnect the inlet heater hose and the outlet heater hose from the heater core.
Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines, the brake lines, and related parts.
Remove the dashboard.
Remove the evaporator.
Remove the mounting bolts and remove the heater unit.
Front heater unit
Remove the self-tapping screws and the clamp.
Carefully pull out the heater core so you don't bend the inlet and outlet pipes.
Front heater core
Using care, install the heater core to the heater unit and secure.
Using care, install the heater unit and tighten mounting nuts and bolts to 7 ft-lb (10 Nm).
Install the evaporator.
Install the dashboard.
Connect the inlet heater hose and the outlet heater hose to the heater core.
Connect the heater valve cable to the heater valve.
Refill the cooling system with engine coolant.
Adjust the heater valve cable.
Make sure that there is no coolant leakage.
Make sure that there is no air leakage.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Perform the power window control unit resetting procedure.
Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio and the navigation system, and then enter the audio presets.
RearTo Remove: NOTE: The rear blower motor, the rear heater core, the blower screen, the rear blower resistor (heating/air conditioning system) and the rear power transistor (climate control system), the rear air mix control motor (climate control system) , the rear mode control motor and the rear expansion valve can be replaced without removing the rear heater-A/C unit.
Remove the self-tapping screws and the clamp, and then remove the bolts and the rear evaporator lines with the rear expansion valve. If necessary, remove the rear expansion valve. Use a second wrench to hold the other fitting on the valve so the rear evaporator lines won't twist. Leave the first fitting loosely connected so you can use it to hold the valve while you loosen the second fitting.
Remove the rear heater hoses.
If necessary, remove the rear blower motor, the rear heater core, the blower screen, the rear blower resistor (heating/air conditioning system), the rear power transistor (climate control system), the rear air mix control motor and the rear mode control motor.
Remove the self-tapping screws and the lower housing.
Remove the self-tapping screws, and carefully separate the left upper housing from the right upper housing. Remove the rear heater core.
Rear evaporator assembly
Replace the rear heater core.
Attach the heater hoses.
Make sure no air is leaking from the left upper housing and the right upper housing fitting and from the upper housings and the lower housing fitting.
Before reassembly, make sure that the rear air mix control linkage and door move smoothly without binding.
Before reassembly, make sure that the rear mode control linkage and door move smoothly without binding.
Reassemble the housing.
After reassembly, make sure the rear air mix control motor runs smoothly.
After reassembly, make sure the rear mode control motor runs smoothly.
Refill the cooling system and make sure that there is no coolant leakage.