Brake line under master cylinder rusted and spraying fluid
Oh mannn! It looks like I will have to remove all four brake line connections, then remove the MC unit to even get at this line. Should I order the parts from a dealer that are already bent? What about all the other rusty lines.....? If I try doing just the one leaking that goes into the firewall towards the rear, where does the line end for me to disconnect it to replace with new? The manual doesn't give detailed info. Can you give me some help???? SG
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Re: brake line under master cylinder rusted and spraying...
Replacing rusty brake lines is a nasty job, but u can do it yourself and save a ton of money. A while back, someone else asked this question and decided to have a garage do it, and it cost $1200. U can purchase different lengths of brake line at any auto parts store, along with connectors to join the lines together. The dealer won't have pre-bent lines for a car that old, but u can buy the different lengths necessary to replace the rotted line. You'll have to follow the line to see where it ends, which may be quite a distance away. The problem is, by the time u have to replace a line, they all need to be changed. The labor cost is high, but u can purchase the lines at a low cost. Get the car uo on jack stands, soak the line connections w/ wd-40 or some penetrating oil for a day (or more if possible) to help in removal. Replace a section at a time w/ lines u bend to fit as u go.Good Luck
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It's pretty straight-forward, but also tedious. Most lines can be purchased pre-bent. That will make your life easier.
Disconnect the brake line where it connects to the rubber brake line near the brakes.
Put a container under the hose to catch the brake fluid that drips out. The first one will drip a lot.
Disconnect the line at the master cylinder.
Connect the new line at the master cylinder.
Connect the new line at the brakes.
Repeat for all four corners.
Fill with new brake fluid.
Bleed the brake system.
It's not a fun job. Trying to get the new brake lines snaked where they need to go can be a real challenge. Plus, the fittings are probably rusted. This might be best left to a professional that has the right tools and experience.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
if it is the wheel cylinder that is leaking then it will have to be replaced and all the components cleaned with brake cleaner.depending how badly soaked the brake shoes are you may have to replace them also.you may have to heat the brake line that connects to the wheel cylinder,or even replace the line if it gets damaged.the bleed all the air out of the system,
Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder itself? When the master cylinder runs dry you should start bleeding your brake system at the master cylinder and then continue on to each of the four wheel cylinders.
How do you know if you need a new master cylinder? Most of the time, if a
brake component needs replacing, it leaves a trail to follow. This
trail is made of stinky brake fluid. That's the good news. Following a
trail of brake fluid will usually lead you to a current or future brake
problem. There are lots of brake components that can go bad. You've got
wheel cylinders, master cylinders, discs, boosters, ABS systems and even
brake pads. Any of these things can make your brakes more exciting than
you ever hoped. Excitement is not something we want out of our brakes.
Open end or box wrenches
Line or flare wrenches
Small pry bar or throwaway screwdriver
New or Rebuilt master cylinder
Safety glasses!Before you start wrenching on your braking system, you need to
thoroughly clean all of the parts involved. The inside of a brake system
is very sensitive to dirt and debris. Even the smallest piece can cause
wear and malfunction. Spray the master cylinder, brake lines and other
components liberally with brake cleaner. Let it soak and do it again. If
it's extra gooey in there, you might need to steal your kid's
toothbrush to take care of it. No matter how you do it, be sure the area
is clean before you even remove the brake fluid cap. Once you've
got everything ****-n-span, remove the fluid reservoir cap and **** the
old brake fluid out with your turkey baster. Don't worry about getting
every drop, you're just making the next steps a little cleaner. Note: Brake fluid can severely damage automotive paint, so keep it off the carIf your car has a "low brake fluid" sensor in the fluid reservoir cap or
any other wiring (such as ABS) on the master cylinder, unplug them.
Now take your flare wrench and loosen all four brake lines at the
master cylinder, but don't unscrew them all the way yet! You want to
leave them in there just a little bit. You'll see why in the next steps.!With the brake lines loosened but not removed, you can remove the bolts
that hold the master cylinder in place. It's usually bolted to a brake
booster of some shape or size, but you can look at your new master
cylinder to see exactly what you should be removing. With the master
cylinder bolts removed, you can lift the master cylinder up slightly
(if needed) and remove the four brake lines. We left them screwed in
slightly because often you aren't able to pull them all the way out
because of shock tower clearance. It's not fun having to rethread all
the brake lines just so you can get them out enough to remove.With the master cylinder removed you'll be able to see the rod that
pushes the piston in the master cylinder. If it didn't come off with the
master cylinder, there will also be a seal around the pushrod. Remove
this seal. If your master cylinder came with a new seal you'll be
replacing it. If not, clean it up for reuse. It still needs to come out
temporarilyNow that you've removed the old master cylinder, you're ready to install the new part. But before you do, it's a good idea to bench bleed the master cylinder. It's much easier to get the air out now than later.
It goes in just like it came out, so in the words of service manuals
around the world, "installation is the reverse of removal." Once
the new part is installed, you'll need to add new brake fluid (never try
to reuse the old stuff) and bleed the brakes. Now you're ready to go!
You must look for 'wet' areas under the car to determine where a brake line may be leaking fluid. This can be caused by corrosion (metal brake lines rusting away), or damage, if the car ran over some debris in the road. The front brakes have flexible rubber lines attached at the wheels, so the car can turn, and the lines 'flex' or move. The rubber can deteriorate over time, causing cracks that can leak fluid. So, you must be a detective and examine the underside of the car to determine where the leak is. If you can't find any evidence, the last thing to check is the master brake cylinder, mounted on the firewall. If the seals go bad, you should notice leakage, usually only visible inside the car, under the dash where the brake pedal meets the master cylinder.
no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad
get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.
if you can see a good amount of wet brake fluid between the brake master cylinder and the brake booster. and you have been adding fliud often,you could have a bad master cylinder. it has to be replaced not rebuilt. you however may have a far more common problem, a rusted through brake line.have someone pump the brake pedal, than look under the car for a brake fluid leak ,repair as needed. than bleed the brakes for a good hard brake pedal
good luck chris