I have an 83 CJ7 and blew out the right rear wheel bearings. I can't find anything to see if what I'm seeing on what I think is the inside race of the inner bearing is bent or if it is the axle shaft housing flange bent. The bearings are definately shot, I removed small metal fragments along with what was left of the bearings. I can't find any id marks to determine if they are AMC 20 or DANA 44. Also, if the shaft is scored, I believe the entire shaft needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing the bearings after I get the rest of the bearing out or should I go with another axle? Also, how do I find out what axle I really have?
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Re: Rear wheel bearing/axle problem
1. There should be a metal tag on the diff cover, held on by one of the cover bolts. This will help you ID the unit. If it's gone then someone will have to look at it that knows these rears. If the axle surface that is scored rides on the bearing surfaces, is scored then it needs to be replaced. 2. the easiest way to know if you got all parts of the old bearing out is to look at a new bearing. 3. I can't remember the manufacturer (maybe sosmetal?), but there used to be a bearing setup that changes the position of the bearing & seal on the axle so it rides on an undamaged part, so you can still use the axle. Check with any local old style parts house (not one of the new fast food type places) you may get some help there. Also... if the bearing failure was extensive, make sure you remove diff cover and clean out all debris from the gear set housing... any junk left behind can destroy pinion and side bearings!!!
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Jeff is describing how to replace the front wheel bearings. In the front, the bearing is part of a "hub cartridge". Randy is describing how to change the rear bearings on a truck with a "dead" rear axle. The sort of differential which is one massive cast iron assembly from rim to rim. However, your truck has an IRS [Independent Rear Suspension] design. You need to remove the wheels, brakes & the complete rear knuckle assembly. To remove the bearing from the knuckle requires a hydraulic press and a "knife edge" bearing removal tool. I doubt that you have these tools available. If not, find an auto parts store or auto machine shop with these tools. They can press the old bearing out and install the new one for you. Then you can reassemble the knuckle assembly from that point on. The video linked below should help you.
You say the rear wheel axles and bearings have been replaced, you mentionnothing of the front wheels, you have the symptoms of a front wheel bearing being worn out, remove them and check for pitting in the bearing rollers or the bearing races, I am sure you will find a problem. Hope this helps solve your issue with the bearing noise.
DO NOT WAIT- MY DEALER SAID I HAD A SMALL LEAK IN SAME PLACE, BUT DIDN'T SAY IT WAS URGENT. SEAL BLEW OUT DRIVING ON FREEWAY, DAMAGED ONE AXLE BEFORE I COULD EXIT. $1200 REPAIR. IT WAS NOT MAKING ANY NOISE TILL IT FAILED. SOUNDED LIKE TIRE THUMPING TO ME. DEALER REPLACED BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE SEALS, RIGHT SIDE BEARING AND RIGHT SIDE AXLE.
THE LEAK is an axle seal leaking the noise is bearings in rear end could be axle bearing of carrier/pinion bearings while driving shift weight of truck side to side see if noise changes if so it is axle bearing if not then most likely differential bearings
Front or rear? Rear I'm going to assume you spun a hub.First wheel, brake drum,mounting bolts that hold the axle to the rear end, all come off. Then you take a slide hammer to remove the axle from the housing. Sometimes the will simply fall out (not very often).Rmember to replace the bearing race in the housing. And torque the nut on the new setup to what the instuctions say. Remeber you are cutting threads into the axle as you tighten it up. The tighter the better. Hope this helps.
This could be one of several problems: If the noise increases with speed, and you are only hearing it from the rear differential and not the transmission, it could be the rear differential carrier bearings, or rear axle bearings going bad. If you are only hearing the noise upon acceleration or deceleration, the rear differential ring and/or pinion gears may be going bad and the rear differential will need an overhaul. You'll have to get the rear wheels off the ground and see if you can pinpoint the location of the noise with something such as a stethoscope. If it's coming from the rear differential, you'll need to pull the bolts and the cover to determine if the gears are still in good shape, or if there is any pitting. Same with the carrier bearings; if you see pitting/ discoloration, they'll need replacement. If the noise is coming from one side towards the end of the axle shaft near the wheel, it's most likely a axle bearing going bad, and you'll need to pull the wheels, remove the diff. cover to release the C clip which holds the rear axle in place at the differential, and pull the axle out. You also need a special tool with a slide hammer to remove the axle bearing and seal.
Section 05-02A: Axle, Integral Carrier — 8.8-Inch Ring Gear
1994 Town Car, Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis. Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
NOTE: Whenever replacing the rear axle lubricant, use Rear Axle Lubricant XY-90-QL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent. Removal CAUTION: The rear brake anti-lock sensor must be removed before the axle shafts are removed. The rear brake anti-lock sensor is bolted on the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Raise vehicle to desired working height. Refer to Section 00-02 . Remove rear wheel (1007) and tire assembly. Remove rear disc brake calipers (2552) and rear disc brake rotors (2C026) .
Clean all dirt from area of axle housing cover with a wire brush and/or cloth.
Drain rear axle lubricant by removing the axle housing cover .
Push flanged end of the axle shafts toward the center of the vehicle and remove the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer from the button end of the axle shaft .
Remove axle shaft from the rear axle housing , being careful not to damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177) and rear brake anti-lock sensor ring.
Installation NOTE: Check for presence of rear axle shaft o-ring (4A332) on the spline end of the shaft and install if not present. CAUTION: Care must be taken not to let axle shaft splines damage oil seal or bearing assembly.
Carefully slide axle shaft into rear axle housing without damaging rear wheel bearing (1225) or rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator (2C189) . Start splines into side gear and push firmly until the button end of axle shaft can be seen in the differential case .
Install the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer on the button end of the axle shaft splines, then pull the shaft outboard until the shaft splines engage and the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear .
Position the differential pinion shaft through the differential case and differential pinion gears , aligning the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the lock bolt hole. Apply Rear Axle Lubricant to differential pinion shaft lock pin . Install differential pinion shaft lock pin and tighten to 20-41 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).
CAUTION: Differential pinion shaft lock pin must be tightened to specification using Stud and Bearing Mount E0AZ-19554-BA (WSK-M2G349-A1) or equivalent.
NOTE: Axle housing cover must be installed within 15 minutes of application of the silicone rubber or new silicone rubber must be applied. CAUTION: Make sure machined surfaces on both axle housing cover and rear axle housing are clean before installing the new silicone sealant. Inside of axle must be covered when cleaning the machined surface to prevent axle contamination. Tighten the cover bolts in a crosswise pattern to ensure uniform draw on axle housing cover .
Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or BA (ESB-M4G92-A or ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent. Install axle housing cover and tighten retaining bolts to 28-38 Nm (38-52 lb-ft).
Add Motorcraft Rear Axle Lubricant XY-90-QL or KL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent until it is 6-14mm (1/4-9/16 inch) below bottom of fill hole. Add 118.3 mL (4 oz) of Ford Additive Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A (EST-M2C118-A) or equivalent to Traction-Lok axles. Install fill plug and tighten to 20-41 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).
Insert Rear Bearing Remover T85L-1225-AH in bore and position it behind bearing so tangs on tool engage bearing outer race. Remove rear wheel bearing and inner wheel bearing oil seal as a unit, using Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A.
Rear Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate
Lubricate the rear wheel bearing with Rear Axle Lubricant.
Install rear wheel bearing into the housing bore using Axle Tube Bearing Replacer T78P-1225-A.
CAUTION: Installation of rear wheel bearing or inner wheel bearing oil seal assembly without proper tool may result in an early bearing or seal failure. If inner wheel bearing oil seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install a new one.
Install the inner wheel bearing oil seal using Axle Tube Seal Replacer T78P-1177-A. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or K (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent between the lips of the inner wheel bearing oil seal .
You could weld the keyway and file it back to size or replace axle. To upgrade, check with some of the big axle manufacturers like strange engineering etc. They could likely help or point you in the right direction. Anything you do will be $$ though.
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the differential housing cover (4033).
Loosen the bolts and drain the lubricant from the rear axle housing (4010).
Remove the bolts.
Remove the differential housing cover.
Remove the rear brake disc (2C026). For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
CAUTION: Turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) with the differential pinion shaft (4211) removed will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly and damage the components. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
Remove the differential pinion shaft.
CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the U-washer groove.
Remove the U-washer (4N237).
Push the axle shaft inboard.
Remove the U-washer.
Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
Install the differential pinion shaft.
Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.
CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal (1177). Remove the axle shaft.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Seal Removal
Remove the axle shaft (4334). For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal (1177) by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing (1225) and the inner wheel bearing oil seal at the same time. NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with foreign material. Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal together.
Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
For 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI with limited slip rear axles and 5.0L vehicles, use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
For 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI with conventional rear axles, use SAE 80W-90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.
Using the special tools, install the rear wheel bearing.
Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Using the special tools, install the wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.