Hi there I am trying to find out which way to turn the adjustment srew inside the airfilter hole which regulates the mix. is it rich turn right so that would be clockwise or the other way. I have installed a hydrogen supplement system so I like to fine tune the runnnig now, I feel it is still a bit rich as I see on the exhaustpipe colour. Many thanks if someone could help. Peter firstname.lastname@example.org Ps I hope this car has no sensors for it infection system which could make the use of my supplement system less or not workable. Any clues on this one as well
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get it jetted right and it will probably pass
308 would work best on a 450 -550 holley
running rich could be
float levels too high
excessive fuel pressure --use a regulator in the fuel line
damaged power valve diaphragm-- subject to burning holes in the diaphragm on back fires
the idle mixture screws incorrectly adjusted
there are speed shops with chassis dynos that will be able to tune the carby correctly so talk with them about the carby size and the problem
Rather strange combination of codes. First is running too lean, second is running too rich. It could be that the O2 sensors have failed and computer is cycling between lean and rich mix, but this should set a code for O2 sensor issue. The O2 sensors only regulate fuel mix within narrow ranges, but if you have not checked the output voltage sweep from them, might be worth a try. It would be helpful to know everything you have done so far.
At the rear of the alternator is a little D-shaped hole near where the two wires plug into the side. With the engine running, insert a short copper wire into that hole - it should only go in about 3/8" or so. There's a little contact inside, and the point of this procedure is to intentionally short-circuit that little contact to the body of the alternator. If the regulator's good, you should suddenly hear the engine labor a little, or hear the fan belt start squeaking a little like it's working harder than normal. When that little contact is shorted on a good regulator, it tells the regulator to charge 100%, full-bore. Voltage should rise sharply while your wire's in there.
When you pull your wire back out, voltage should drop to normal again.
If the regulator's bad, then shorting the little contact will have no effect at all.
You might want to be sure you're getting voltage to the two small wires that plug into the alternator's side - if you're not, the alternator won't charge right if at all. One wire should be energized when the key's turned on, the other is a sense line but should also show voltage with the key turned on.
If the alternator has only one wire connected to it, someone has swapped out the original-style alternator for a one-wire alternator. I have mixed feelings about those. The only way to test them is measure their voltage output - if lower than about 12 or higher than about 14.5, the regulator's not working right. It SHOULD be right around 13.8 volts.
This can be cause by airfilter clogged up,to a failed MAP sensor to a coolant temperature reporting lower temperature than it normnally is,to a leaky injector or pressure regulator, or a 02 sensor that is lean bias. You basically need to check for codes,
Running rich is from the engine getting too much fuel or not getting enough air. First, inspect your air filter and the intake snorkel to make sure that they are clean and there are no leaks between the air cleaner housing and the throttle body. The second most probable cause of your problem would be a failed Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) When these fail, they lie to the Engine controller about how much vacuum is present in the intake and the computer "thinks" that you have your foot into the accelerator when you don't. Something else to check would be your Fuel Pressure Regulator. Sometimes the diaphragm inside the gets a hole in it and the engine draws fuel through the vacuum hose to the regulator. To check for this, remove the vacuum hose at the regulator with the engine running. If fuel comes out of it, replace the regulator. Depending on which engine you have, your ignition timing may be adjustable on your engine. Make sure that that the ignition is timed according to factory specifications.
im pretty sure that the float adjustment is set wrong, if to high it will act as if truck is flooding out, and be very rich. if to low you will not get the power you need. readjust float level. make sure there is no dirt inside carburator. for adjustment turn screws way in and back out 1 and a half turns.start from there.
this does sound like a timing issue or the points in the ingition system are not set to the right gap. if the ignition leads look perrished they should be changes as sparks for the plugs might be shorting out on the engine case and not the plug. or from the coil to the distrbutor. i would check this first before playing with the timing.
other factors, to check before hand, maybe fuel air mix is wrong if the plugs are sooty they you mix is too rich and need adjustmet and if coated in while then its too lean. also your airfilter may be blocking up or the breather cap on the fuel tank is blocked thus causing fuel starvation. did this start to happen happen after filling up the car from a fuel can? it could be that platic debris or paint from the inside of the can has got into the fuel tank and blocking up the fuel line.
use the air and gas flow adjustments on the side of the carburator to adjust the rich/lean flow of gas. there is a srew on each side of the carb to adjust one is for air the other for fuel. the one on the driversside is for the fuel and the one on the passenger side is for air. you have to turn them slowly til you get the desired results