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all wheel drive vehicles have to work at both ends all the time unless you have a major failure in the drive train. That is why it is called all wheel drive as opposed to 4 wheel drive. With 4 wheel drive you have the option of rear wheel drive or 4 wheel drive and normally in a high ratio or low ratio gear selection. With some all wheel drive vehicles there is a selector that locks the middle diff and creates a 4 wheel drive option without the high/low gear ratio option. So in practice if the both front wheels are in the bog then there is no all wheel drive as the centre diff is working as it should and placing all the action in the rear wheels which will not be turning as they have traction so the front wheels spin faster.. If you have a centre diff lock option ensure that it is operational.
The pining noise you are hearing is detonation in the engine and comes from incorrect air/fuel ratio making the engine run too lean, It is spontaneous combustion occurring before spark and tends to drive the piston back down the bore. It is detrimental to the engine and should be rectified asap. Run fault codes and look for sensor problems. Vin numbers are unlikely to show the gear ratio of the rear end as there are 4 ratios for each model of car. Jack up on side of the rear . count the number of turns the pinion does for each revolution of the wheel . Divide that by 2 ( side gears in diff carrier multiply by 2 when driving one wheel)and you will get the ratio. So 10 revolutions of the tire gives 35.5. revolutions at the pinion equals to 17.5 or a ratio of 1.75: 1 ratio
Although you can buy a ring and pinion set from most speed and performance outlets, it takes precision installation to install them without which they will fail quickly. There are only a very few actual gear manufacturers but gears are sold under various brand names. If I was to replace the gears in any of my vehicles likely I'd buy ones from Richmond. Since I have no idea what engine, transmission and wheel/tire combination you have, I'd recommend something around a 4:11 ratio as a good baseline. Going to anything "stiffer" will eat up fuel like no tomorrow. Many times you can get a good buy on complete differentials (end to end) used, from other off-roaders that are up-grading. Make sure that the ratios are exactly the same front and rear and NEVER use positraction in the front, or spool type units on either end unless you are using it only off road. To get an idea what gears you have now, there should be a tag on one of the cover bolts. If not, count the number of turns of the driveshaft it takes to turn the wheel one revolution. That number is likely about 3.73 or your differential would be 3.73:1.
A good way of testing the traction control is to stop on a slippery road and then take off fast as to spin the wheels there when wheels start to spin the traction should activate and stop the spinning wheels you may hear it kick inand a light on the dash will say trac active or trac on, as far as sliding when stopping this is where the abs would come in,abs anti skid brake system, this system when you are braking would release the sliding or skidding wheel and you would felt it in the brake pedal, good luck, hope this helps.
the abs sensors stopped wheels not fast spinning wheels
when there is no signal from the rotor the abs kicks in and releases he brake pressure to that wheel/s allowing them to turn to give the driver steering control
as the abs and traction control use the same wheel sensor , the traction could detect a fast spinning wheel and take action to control it
you have upgraded the final drive ration to 4.56 from standard which will be 3 point something which will make the engine rev higher to get the same speed
and that could be where the problem is coming from as there is a connection between the engine rpms and the road speed and the preset parameters may be not reading the new settings from the new diff ratio
putting on the lights and dropping power