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Hello billmarks: My name is Roger and I will help you. The torque specs for the tie rod lock nut and the tie rod spindle nut is 55 foot pounds. Should you need further help please just ask.Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with wrench Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Remove the tie rod end from steering knuckle arm, using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle .Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C3894-A Ball Joint Stud .-----------------------The procedure is :--
Do NOT pound on the outside of the hub. First you will need a 5 inch long half inch drive socket extension. Start the 4 hub bolts about half way, then witha helper hold the extension between one of the 4 bolts and the axle housing then have the helper turn the steering wheel to push on the bolt and hub. If it is really rusted in you might have to start the truck to get more pressure on it while turning.
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Very simple. 1. Remove the front wheel 2. Take the proper size wrench and loosen the nut on the tie rod and rack and pinion 3. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut where the tie rod goes through the spindle(hub assembly) 4. Remove the castle nut and hit the area where the joint goes through until the shaft comes loose with a hammer 5. spin the outer tie rod off counting the number of spins 6. Reverse this procedure to install. If you need the inner tie rod(inner socket), let me know and I should be able to find a diagram and instructions.
Unsure as to what you are calling the King nut but here are the torque specs for your front end.
Steering Gear-To-Cradle Bolt...........135 ft pnds Steering Gear-To-Crossmember Bolt (Dakota 2 WD)..........190 ft pnds Suspension Cradle Plate To-Cradle Attaching Bolt..............123 ft pnds Tie Rod End-To-Steering Knuckle Nut Dakota (2WD) .............65 ft pnds Tie Rod Lock Nut.....................55 ft pnds
first break lose the locking nut on the rod, just break it lose!!!
the take off the nut holding thr tie rod too the hub mount
then take a hammer and hit it up
if that doesnt work use tie rod end remover
then just unscrew it
in stall the new on back too where you breok the locking nut lose thats your adjustment, out it all back together,and lock down the nut !!!
Prepare your tie rod and install the grease fitting provided with it.
1. Jack up vehicle and secure on jack stand
2. Remove wheel
3. Turn steering wheel so that access is best to the tie rod assembly.
4. Loosen jam nut on tie rod.Do not disturb or turn this more than what is needed to make it loose from the tie rod as this will be your rough reference point and at least close when installing new tie rod.
5. Remove cotter pin from castle nut where tie rod attaches to spindle assembly.
6. Remove castle nut
7. Remove tie rod from spindle assembly - Free with a hammer striking it on the castle nut shaft to drive it out of the hole.
8. un-thread tie rod from tie rod shaft holding the shaft still with vice grip or other pliers.
9. Install tie rod on shaft until it meets the jam nut.
10. Insert tie rod to spindle, tighten, and install new cotter pin in castle nut.
11. Tighten jam nut
12. Grease tie rod assembly
13. Install wheel and have aligned.
Do not skip having this aligned regardless of how it drives, post repair as tie rods absolute length can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Your final alignment will not be accurate until it is set on a rack with an alignment machine.
You need some sockets, and a good 1/2' ratchet.
Sizes 13mm, 14mm ,15mm, 16mm,17mm and 19mm to undo the nut holding the swivel onto the hub carrier.
You will need a 17mm,18mm & 19mm open ended spanners to crack open the lock nut that secures the tie rod end onto the steering rack end. You may also need a pair of mole grips or small stilson type grips to undo the worn tie rod as it may be partially seized.
A can of WD40.
I have listed a few different sizes of spanners and sockets because in my experience if the tie rod has been replaced before certain parts manufacturers use different size nuts!
You should be able to remove this without jacking the car up but taking the weight of the wheel will help.
Not too much to it, Crack jamb nut loose at threaded end where it threads onto. Pop/whack, it out of spindle/knuckle, after removing cotter pin & nut, thread it out, and new one on, same distance, or amount of threads, and tighten jamb nut against it. Push end back into spindle/knuckle, give light tap with nylon or rubber hammer, so it won't spin when trying to tighten nut & install nut (35 ft.lbs) & cotter pin.
If on the front end, you will have the spring, with the strut coming down in the center, then you will have a sway bar with a thin rod that connects to the arm, then you will have a small rod coming straight out with a boot and nut on the end at a 90deg angle, and that will be the tie rod and tie rod end. And in the center of the wheel will be your axle, I hope I described what you are looking for. Good luck
There is a tool that you can use that will make it easier for you. To get to the tie rod end, remove the wheel and take the outer tie rod end loose from the hub. You will have to use a hammer and hit the socket where the end goes into the hub to free it up. Once you have the tie rod loose from the hub, loosen the nut behind the outer tie rod end. Count the revolutions as you unscrew the outer end off and write te number down so you will know how far to put it back on. This will save your alignment. Now, the end that is still there is your inner tie rod end. You will have to undo the bellows boot to get to the nut. The tool will slide over the end and secure onto the nut. Now you just unscrew this and replace with you new inner tie rod end.
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