Question about 1983 Toyota Pickup

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Tie rod end install

Pasenger side tie rod separated from ball...i have purchased a new tie rod end and removed old ball from arm...will inserting the new end of ball and tighting nut be enough to re-seat bolt/ball to arm?

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That should work just fine. Sometimes you can tap it lightly with a hammer to get it to seat before you start tightening the bolt.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

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Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Replace the tie rod on a 1998 sienna


1 PUT ON YOUR EMERGENCY BREAK, LOOSEN THE WHEEL NUTS ON THE FRONT WHEELS,JACK UP THE CAR AND REMOVE THE FRONT WHEEL. WITH SOME YELLOW PAINT ,MARK THE THREADS WHERE IT SCREWS INTO THE TIE ROD END SO YOU KNOW HOW FAR TO SCREW THE NEW ON ONTO. TAKE OUT THE COTTER PIN AND REMOVE THE CASTLE NUT FROM THE ROD. USE A PRY BAR TO SEPERATE THE BOLT FROM THE TIE ROD END. ONCE SEPARATED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE UNSCREW THE OLD TIE ROD END OFF THE SHAFT..TAKE THE NEW ONE AND SCREW IT BACK ON ONLY TO THE YELLOW PAINT MARK THAT YOU MADE ON THE ROD EARLIER. THEN JUST REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT APART. MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE NUT TO 50 LBS.AND BE SURE TO USE A NEW COTTER PIN ON THE CASTLE NUT..

May 04, 2011 | 1998 Toyota Sienna

1 Answer

How to replace the passenger control arm on the 2006 suzuki grand vitara


Most front ends are set up basically the same way.First raise and support your front end and remove the tire.Both the upper and lower should look about the same.If you look at the control arm you will have an upper and lower ball joint and a tie rod end bolted to the steering knuckle.Remove the bolt on the tie rod end and use a ball joint separate to remove the tie rod end.Then remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle with your separator.Depending on which control arm it is if its the upper you will also have to remove the brake hose out of the way to remove the upper control arm.Once that's done you will see 2 bolts that hold the control arms to the frame remove these bolts and your control arm will come off,You might have to pry them a little bit to get them out.You also want to have something handy to block up your steering knuckle until your ready to put it back together.It wouldn't hurt to have a piece of wire just in case you need to tie something in place.And be sure you grease everything with a high pressure grease.

Mar 06, 2011 | 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Is a special tool required to remove inner tie rod from relay rod on 2001 Tahoe.? Also what should torque be?


Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Raise and support the vehicle
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
    • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
      Steering components gm_trk_sub15_steering_components.gif

    • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
    • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
    • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod gm_trk_sub15_idler_from_relay_rod.gif

    • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud gm_trk_sub15_relay_rod_rem.gif

    • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
    • Relay rod from the vehicle
  3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
  4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
  5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
  6. Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Relay rod to the vehicle
    • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
    • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
    • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
    • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
    • Tie rod ends
    • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle
  3. Check the wheel alignment
  4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
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Sep 18, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How to replace the cv axles


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
  3. Remove the splash shield, if equipped.
  4. Drain the transaxle.
  5. Raise the staked portion of the hub locknut with a hammer and chisel. Lock the hub by applying the brakes and loosen the nut.
  6. Separate the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.
  7. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end ball stud.
  8. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, using a suitable tool.
  9. Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
  10. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle, using a prybar on the control arm.
  11. Position a prybar between the inner CV-joint and transaxle case. Carefully pry the halfshaft from the transaxle being careful not damage the oil seal. If equipped with a right side intermediate shaft, insert the prybar between the halfshaft and intermediate shaft and tap on the bar to uncouple them.
  12. Remove the hub locknut and discard.
  13. Pull outward on the hub/knuckle assembly, push the outer CV-joint stub shaft through the hub, and remove the halfshaft. If the halfshaft is stuck in the hub, install the old hub nut to protect the stub shaft threads. Tap on the nut, using only a soft mallet, to remove the halfshaft.
    NOTE Install Differential Side Gear holder K49A-4208-AT, into the transaxle after removing the halfshaft, to keep the differential side gear in position. If the gear becomes out of position the differential may have to be removed to realign the gear.
  14. Remove the intermediate shaft, if necessary, by removing the support bearing bolts and pulling the shaft from the transaxle.

    0900c1528002861e.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Exploded view of the halfshafts and related components

To install:

0900c1528002861f.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Support bearing bolt tightening sequence

  1. Install a new circlip on the end of the intermediate shaft,
    1. 1.5L, 1.6L (VIN 5), 1.8L install the circlip with the end gap facing upward.
    2. 1.6L (VIN 3), 2.0L, 2.4L and 2.7L install the circlip with end gap facing downward.

  2. Install the intermediate shaft in the transaxle, being careful not to damage the oil seals.
  3. Install the support bearing bolts and tighten, in sequence, to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  4. Install a new circlip on the end of the halfshaft, with the end gap facing upward.
  5. Install the halfshaft into the transaxle, being careful not to damage the oil seal.
  6. Install the halfshaft into the intermediate shaft, if equipped.
  7. Install the other end of the halfshaft through the hub. Loosely install a new locknut.
  8. Install the lower ball joint into the knuckle.
  9. Install the pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  10. Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and tighten the nut to 42 ft. lbs. (57 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the nut, if necessary, to align the ball stud hole with the nut castellation.
  11. Install the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm.
  12. Install the splash shield and the wheel and tire assemblies.
  13. Lock the hub with the brakes. Tighten the new hub nut to 155-206 ft. lbs. (214-279 Nm). After tightening, stake the locknut using a hammer and dull bladed chisel.
  14. Fill the transaxle with the proper type and quantity of fluid.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Halfshafts&partName=Drive+Train&pageId=0900c1528002861d&partId=0900c152800285e3

Jul 02, 2009 | 2004 Kia Optima

4 Answers

How do I replace the upper ball joints in my 2002 Ford Explorer?


The upper ball joints are replaceable without replacing the control arms. Use Moog K80008 ball joints and a ball joint press.

Jun 25, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Replacing a front wheel bearing


here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation
  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

Apr 17, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Need to replace steering arm on pass side on 1998


Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.

Jan 02, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Malibu

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