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Hello. Just wanted to thank you, your advice worked perfectly. It started right up after backing off on the rockers. I don't think there is any valve damage. Thanks again.
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If it starts then I would leave that possibility to last. I would remove the rocker cover and check the operation of the rockers as one may have slipped sideways and is not directly over a valve stem. t is also possible to check the valve timing with the rocker cover off. Turn the engine clockwise until the rockers on no 1 cylinder start to move watch these rockers and when you see no1 exhaust rocker start to come up then it will be getting close . Keep turning until you see the exhaust rocker stop moving up and the inlet no1 cylinder rocker start to go down. Move the crank back and forth until you get the position of movement either way moves either rocker. This is called valve overlap and if you look at the timing mark on the harmonic balancer pulley then the mark will be almost /on TDC
I would then run the fault codes as there may be other problems that caused the stall situation.
The rocker arm has to be set perfectly so as to not be TOO TIGHT or TOO LOOSE.. TOO tight and it will miss/shake/vibrate ... too loose and it will TICK/make noise and not run well...
sounds like bad valve seats or seals do you have a oil pressure gauge on your dash.check the pressure.then check your return ports on top of the head thats giving you the problem see if the oil is returning to the oil pan.sometimes the return ports become blocked and the oil stays on top of the head.and see if the oil supply is making up to the head.hope this helps.mark
If the valve lash is good it should not be making noise. Sounds the mechanic maybe did not get the lash just right. I would ask him to readjust the valve lash or at least check it. The rockers started oil as soon as you started the engine and the oil pressure came up.
if ticking noise is heard through valve covers inspect rocker arm clearance, inspect arms and push rods for wear. back firing could be a result of incorrect valve clearance
not hard and no dont need to remove intake will have to remove some things depends on which side your working on like air intake hose a wire or two might have to unbolt a/c/ if u have- could be rocker also check for dry push rod ,weak valve springs worn valve guide-
You would have to read the tech manual to see if they are just shims or if the are a hydraulic type lifter. They would actually pump up with oil and hold slight pressure on the cam so there would not be the tappet noise associated with a solid lifter cam. Odds are they got gummed up and started tapping on you. Hopefully you marked the cylinders they came off of and placed them back in the same location on the cylinder head as originally installed. You don't want premature cam failure because of the mismatched wear patterns on the lifters. Good Luck, RAC
are these adj rockers? if so then take the nut down till you have about 1/4 in bolt sticking above it, then see if it will start, if it does then back each rocker off till it starts clicking then tighten till it stops clicking then go another1/4 turn thats your running adjustment!!!
I am from the old school. Start the engine with the valve covers off, back off the rocker nut until the rocker starts tapping then slowly tighten nut until tapping stops then go an 1/8 of a turn tighter. Repeat the same for the rest.I know it will be very messy and you have to watch the oil on the exhaust manifolds for a fire. There will be a lot of smoke. What I do is cut out sheet metal and use it as a shield so the oil does not flow over the head as much.
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