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You have to find the leak and seal it up, hey. It may help to picture where vacuum originates in the engine: As the pistons move down in the cylinders they pull air in from the intake manifold. This creates a pressure drop in the intake, a vacuum that is maintained as the engine is running. New air that is pulled into the intake is measured by the Mass Air Flow sensor mounted in the big boot between the air filter and the intake. If extra air is pulled into the intake manifold from a vacuum leak, uncalibrated air, the computer can figure it out from the oxygen sensors reading in the exhaust-mixture is too lean, so the computer will try to compensate by delivering more fuel, but can't deliver enough, mix is still too lean, so computer sets a code for the vacuum leak. The intake will have a few vacuum taps with hoses running to engine or car controls that require vacuum to operate. If one of the hoses comes off or has a leak, that is extra air into the intake. Your power brake booster has a large vacuum tap. That may be the problem. With the engine running, pull off that line and plug it, and see if engine speed changes. If the idle drops that may be your leak-a failed power brake booster. If nothing yet, keep engine running and spray some starting fluid around the mounting area of the intake manifold (maybe the intake gasket has failed and sprung a leak) and listen for a change in engine pitch or speed. The fluid may get sucked into the intake and cause speed to change. If it does, you would need to remove the intake manifold and fit a new manifold gasket. Also check the big boot from the air filter to the throttle body for tears or loose fit. Good luck, Rev!
High idle is usually caused by a vacume leak. First place to check is the cold air intake manifold. All hoses, throttle body, and sensors. Throttle Position(TPS), Mass Airflow(MAS), Idle Air Control Motor (valve) IAC. Controls Idle speed
A malfunctioning throttle system can cause both a high idle as well as an engine stall.
You may not have all the things I list. these are things that will make an engine run rich. ECM, 02 sensors, map sensor, mass air flow sensor, vacuum leaks, throttle position sensor, Clogged air filter, Clogged catalitic converter. You have already replaced the injectors and the ECT , so that rules them out. Check for codes. Start with vacuum leaks. Hoses and the intake manifold gaskets. If you need more info let me know. Randy
Something is probably leaning out the mixture when you open the throttle. It seems that any ignition issues have been ruled out.
So, check the following: fuel filter clogged, low fuel pump pressure, the fuel pressure regulator could be stuck at the idle setting, the EGR valve could be stuck open, faulty throttle position sensor (TPS) or circuit, faulty manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, faulty or dirty manifold air flow (MAF) sensor, faulty intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, and an air leak into the intake duct or manifold between the MAF and the throttle body. I think if the intake manifold gasket had a leak, it would be misfiring at idle.
Ask the shop if any of the above checks have already been accomplished. I'll bet most of them have, but one may have been overlooked.
If the manifold was replaced, install or connect the following:
Vacuum source manifold.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
Throttle body assembly.
Upper-to-lower intake manifold carrier gasket to the upper intake manifold.
Carefully place the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold. Ensure that the alignment pins in the upper intake manifold align with the holes in the lower intake manifold.
NOTE: Apply thread lock compound, to the bolt threads before assembly.
Install or connect the following:
Upper intake manifold. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in sequence to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
Accelerator and the cruise control cables with the bracket to the throttle body.
EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line to the throttle body.
Connect the electrical connectors to the following:
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
Throttle Position (T/P) sensor
EVAP purge solenoid
Install or connect the following:
Throttle body upper support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
EGR valve wiring harness heat shield, nut and the bolt. Tighten the nut and the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
Don't waste your time.
Have the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) replaced.
Check all vacuum lines for leaks.
Clamp all vacuum hose connections.
Do NOT replace any sensors unless the computer codes indicate.
THIS WILL FIX YOUR PROBLEM!
Thoroughly clean all gasket mating surfaces. Be careful not to damage or score the aluminum surface. If replaced, use Loctite® 290, to seal the new PCV valve inlet tube into the manifold.
NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the intake manifold torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
Install or connect the following:
New gasket and manifold. Torque the nuts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Power steering pump. Torque the fasteners to 27 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).
Heater hose and install the manifold support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Lubricate the male ends of the fuel lines with a few drops of clean engine oil, then connect the fuel supply and return lines.
Fuel line(s) in the retaining bracket. Torque the mounting screw to 36 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Throttle cable to the throttle body and attach the accelerator cable bracket. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Reposition the wiring harness and connect the wiring and vacuum hoses to their original locations. The harness leads to the TP sensor and EGR solenoid must be routed between the intake manifold runners.
Negative battery cable
Fill the coolant system.
Prime the fuel system by cycling the ignition ON for 5 seconds and OFF for 10 seconds a few times without cranking the engine.
Start the engine, check for leaks, and repair if necessary.