I have problem with connection of ford xr6 electronic ignitio
Ford xr6 electronic ignition , what colour wires goes to coil + termina and what colour gies to \negative - terminal. wires from electronic unit available are 1) yelow with two blue stripes 2) black with two white stripes. which goes where please! URGENT.Thank you
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Re: I have problem with connection of ford xr6 electronic...
The yellow blue is the + side of coil but to be safe get a test light connect one end to the negative side of battery or a good clean earth on the engine turn ignition. Check which wire has power .The one with power is for the + side of coil . Check test light on battery to make sure it works
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Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap.
Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected.
Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug.
Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire).
Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire.
If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good.
If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground
Ignition Coil Resistance Check
In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.
Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.
You may have a bad coil or bad ground or wire connection
Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF
before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness
connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at
the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the
cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When
the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the
lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with
the following system checks.
Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by
touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the
terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter
to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should
be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and
all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair
Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF.
Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an
ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative
coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK;
replace it if the reading is far from this range.
If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the
pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance
by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are
indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be
Fig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 modelsFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
Remove the IC unit.
the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be
approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit
is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is
bad and must be replaced.
1999 Ford Escort firing order and ignition troubleshooting.<br /><span>Refer
to the diagram. Cylinders are connected as shown on the diagram in
blue. 1 goes to cylinder 1(sparkplug furthest from coil pack), 2 to 2, 3
to 3 and 4 to 4(closets to coil pack).<br />To test the coil pack use a
digital volt meter. Measure resistance between coil towers for coil
1(marked 1 in red on diagram) Value should be between 12000 and 14500
ohm. Do the same for coil towers 2. <br />Measure resistance between I and C1. If the measurement is more than 5 ohm the coil is defective. Do the same for I to C2.<br />Measuring voltage at I(Ignition start/run) to ground should be 10V.</span><br /><span>I
is connected to the 15A engine fuse. The radio interference capacitor
is connected between this line and earth at the coil. Disconnect it to
see if it cures the misfire.<br />C1 and C2 connect to the powertrain control module. The module earths each line to make its respective coil fire.<br />Bear in mind that aftermarket coil wires may cause problems with misfiring</span> so use OEM parts where possible.<br /><img src="suzman_6.JPG" /><br />
Pull an easy one and check. The resistance should be really close. I don't check. I pull another and swap them. If the misfires goes to that cylinder, replace the coil. If not, I check wiring for the original misfire. You can use a noid light for the coil plug also.
Black and red are pretty standard for negative & positive battery terminals.
There is likely a model number (pic isn't good enough to see the finer print) on the label but the larger numerals are probably serial numbers and without the model number, you may have a problem finding the exact installation info you want.
The link below has illustrations for a different model but manufacturers will generally stick with a wiring code to make installation and even production simpler:
the coil is connected to the distributor with a wire to the body and a ht lead from the centre of the coil to the centre of the distributor cap. There will be a wire from the ignition switch to go to the coil as well