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you should have bought a Chilton or Haynes manual. most cars and trucks are all different and have a set way to set them. if you broke the chain or belt and bent a valve. you will need to do expensive repairs pulling the heads to change valves. not sure what car you have or why you pulled the timing off. so I cant be sure what to tell you.
diagrams I have show a twin cam set up with 2 balancing shafts. The marks on the cam shaft point to (left cam shaft 11 oclock the mark on the right point to the 1 oclock position. The chain will have 3 black links-- the top black links will be at the timing marks on the shafts with the 3rd black link directly at 6 oclock facing a mark on the gear. The balancer marks both point to the 1 oclock position with black links on each and the 3rd black link will be facing a mark to the 7 oclock position on the crankahaft gear. Everything is done with the piston at TDC no 1 cylinder so get it there before you put the cam shafts in position or you will bend valves. Crank shaft gear is not keyed to the crank shaft. there are dots on the right hand balancer shaft gears and these dots will be as the 2 dots on adjacent teeth either side of a dot on the meshing gear. I suppose that is all as clear as mud but if you got this far then you will see the marks and marked links on the chains
you are in a bit of a bind. Turning the engine over will result in bent valves so do not touch the crank shaft. you have to loose off all the rockers/ cam followers even to the point of removing the cam shaft. having done that remove no1 cylinder spark plug and by the use of a thin piece of wire turn the crank until the piston reaches top dead center. find this by rocking the crank back and forward until the piston dose'n move up or down check for the crank timing mark next replace the cam shaft and position the cam lobes for no1 piston in such a position that the inlet and exhaust valves move slightly up or down when the cam is moved slightly left or right. this is called valve over lap and with the piston on top dead center means that you now have valve timing for the engine. Cam timing marks can be dot on gear to shiny link on chain or if using a belt a dot on tooth lineing up with mould mark or join on head before starting up do a compression check to prove that there are no bent valves. if you are not mechanically minded enough to attempt the valve timing method it may be cheaper in the long term to let a qualified person do the job
Hi Robert, It would help to know what engine is in your vehicle? A rule of thumb way to set up the valve timing is as follows. Rotate the crank shaft until the crank shaft mark is about 90 degrees from TDC. This will protect the valves from damage when rotating the cams to align them. With the tappet cover removed rotate the cam shaft or shafts so that the number one cylinder is on compression (both inlet and exhaust valves fully closed) and the last cylinder in line on overlap, Look for adjacent timing marks on the cam gears and somewhere close to those look for the alignment marks (maybe notch marks, holes or indented match marks). (Some manufactures use the machined gasket surface where the tappet cover closes onto the cylinder head). Look closely for the static mark on the cylinder head and align the cam(s) to it or them. Once completed, set the crank at Top Dead Center and look carefully for a timing mark which aligns with the gear and set them. Fit the belt so the marks align when the tensioner bearing is released and presses the belt under load. (follow the manufactures recommended tightening instructions.) . (Remember never to crimp a timing belt, if it has been, throw it away and get another, even if it is new!) If the belt snapped and that is the reason for replacement, internal damage may have resulted inside the engine. A snapped belt may cause damage to the valves, the camshafts, the cam shaft caps and to the pistons. If the engine turns much faster than expected and sounds as if there is no compression, you have problems! (Those I've just mentioned. I hope not for your sake. best of luck Regards John
Dont tell me you removed all the wires at once without marking them? :O
The best advise for that is, to remove one wire and plug at a time then replace the plug, and connect the wire back in place to avoid mix ups...
I have spec tables for that car, but you need to help me with the model, whats the year model, 92 or 97?
6 Cylinder petrol: Align crank(C) timing notch mark (1) to oil pump mark. Align cam pulley(L+R) marks(3) to cylinder head marks The cam belt has 3 marks, 2 lines and one mark that is actually a row of dots. Align the dots to the crank pulley groove mark(2) and align the other 2 lines to the cam pulley marks. Using a clothes peg to hold the belt to the cam pulleys works wonders to keep it in place while fitting. Please note the arrows on the belt and have them point in the direction of rotation - right to left side of engine W - water pump pulley I - Idler pulley T - Tensioner pulley.
If for some reason you need to realign the cams on each bank : Standing
in front of the car and starting from YOUR left , looking at the cams
you should see RE, RI, LI, LE on each of the camshafts.(R for right
bank, L for left bank, I for intake and E for exhaust) Right bank
camshafts are marked with one dot, left bank with 2 dots on the shaft
itself. To align the camshafts to each other each cam shaft gear has a
mark on it. Draw an imaginary line between the centre of the camshaft
and the centre of the pulley. The alignment mark should be between the
two along this imaginary line. The result will be that RI an RE will be
at the top of each gear. The same with the left bank.
You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...