Question about 1999 Volvo S80

1 Answer

Troubleshooting charging system problem

We recently had a damaged door replaced on our car. They switched out the window motor and other electrical from the old door to the new. Now the battery (which has tested "good") is not being charged. My question is two fold:

first, is this coincidence or could the autobody shop have shorted something out or incorrectly charged the battery, and is there anyway someone could "prove" this?

Second, the alternator seems to be generating enough electricity to run the car, with accessories, on its own, but is not charging the battery. Does this imply that the voltage regulator is the problem, and can it be replaced without replacing the whole alternator? Are there other components (In line fuses, etc.) to the charging system? I can't find a source for wiring diagrams.

Thanks!

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  • randyward Dec 27, 2008

    Thanks. Car is a 99 Volvo s80. I'm new to the forum and thought I was on a specific S80 site!
    I did have battery tested (good) and the alternator (it's not charging the battery). I'm just curious if there is anything besides the alternator that could be at fault, or if there are individual components that can be replaced within the alternator, as in some vehicles. I'm new to the Volvo!


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First need to know what type and make of car you have.
most likely not on the problem in the door being any relation to the charging system as this is a seperate system.
and as for the alternator putting out voltage, if you put a volt meter to the lug on the back it should read about 14 volts, however this is not set in stone. you will also have to have the proper amps comins out.
I would take the vehicle to someplace like autozone and have a check done on the battery and charging system as they do this for free. As long as both check then you most likely have a wiring problem from alternator to battery issue.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • Gregory Stobbe
    Gregory Stobbe Dec 27, 2008

    So i assume that as you say the charging system has been tested? does this mean it is ok or dont know as if the vehicle was here in front of me and the alternator was producing the proper amount of voltage AND amps then I would say the battery is showing you false info or as we like to say in the shop world a surface charge this "Surface charge" means the battery is showing 12+ volts nominal but when put under a load it croaks. if this is the case as I asume it is then You have a bad cell or two in the battery. if the battery is more than 1.5 years or 2 old then I say get a new battery and go from there. As if you disconect the battery when the car is running and it stays running then the problem has to be in the battery as the charging system has to be functioning for this to happen if the car dies then it is a charging issue and you need an alternator. I dont know if your specific vehicle has and external voltage regulator or not but as the age of the car is I presume not as they went out around 1992 or so.



    Ps dont forget to rate my answer if you would... Thanks and if i can be further help let me know.

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Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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Hi,
Hi!!

Here is a little information on how window regulator works. Also step by step instruccions on how to remove and install the window glass.

Door Glass & Regulator Power Windows
Diagnosis & Testing
When the rear window lockout feature is enabled, the circuit is open and no voltage is supplied to the rear window switches. When the feature is not enabled, the circuit is connected to battery positive voltage. If this circuit is shorted to ground when the lockout feature is not enabled, the PWR WDO circuit breaker may cycle continuously OFF/ON until, either the lockout switch is pressed to open the circuit, or the circuit breaker is permanently damaged. All windows may be partially or totally inoperative while the fault is present.
Inspect for aftermarket devices which could affect the operation of the system. Inspect the easily accessible or visible system components for obvious damage or conditions which could cause the symptom. Faulty electrical connections or wiring may be the cause of intermittent conditions.
Removal & Installation
Window Motor & Regulator
  1. Position window approximately half way down in the door.
  2. Remove the interior trim panel.
  3. Remove the water deflector.
  4. Tape the window to door frame to prevent it from moving.
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Window Switch
Front
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Rear
  1. Remove the rear door pull cup from the rear door trim panel.
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1 Answer

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To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
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Test the wiring harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out, away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if motor is replaced.
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Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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2 Answers

I have a 1997 ford explorer, and it has power seats and power windows.and the windows and seats will not move.all of the fuses have been checked and are good.


If the fuses are checked ok then there is a possibility that either driver door side main switch or the window regulator or the window motor is gone faulty.
If the windows don't work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.
Automotive power windows use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator moves the pane of glass into the door.
To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
2) 
Test the wiring harnesses from the fuse panel to the switches and from the switches to the window regulator motor. If the circuits test fine, then proceed to the next step. If a wiring harness is shorted or damaged, it will need to be replaced.3) Remove and test the switches on the driver's side door panel. Pry them up with a screwdriver and pull them free of the panel's opening. Disconnect the switch assembly from the wiring harness by pulling the adapter plug from the assembly. Test the switches individually by touching both sides of one switch with the circuit tester. Each switch will have two terminals, and if the tester is positive on both terminals while the window is activated, then the switch is good. Replace the switch assembly if any of the switches fails the test. Most power window switches come in assembled modules and cannot be replaced individually.4) Remove and test (if possible) the power window motor. Turn the armrest bolts and interior door handle screws counterclockwise, then pull the door panel free from the pop rivets. Behind the panel are a window regulator, the window glass, and the electric driver motor. The motor is usually located in the lower right section of the door. Unplug the motor from the wiring harness and unbolt it from the window regulator by turning the bolts counterclockwise. Pull the motor straight out, away from the gears. And check out if motor is receiving exact 12 volts at the terminals. If not then either motor is faulty or there is a confirm short if motor is replaced.
5) If all the above mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement, if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the regulator out of the door.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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1 Answer

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If the windows don't work, any of several issues is likely to blame, including no electricity, bad switches, bad motor, damaged window regulator, or even a broken wire.
Automotive power windows use a switched motor to operate a mechanical window regulator. This regulator moves the pane of glass into the door.
To check and confirm the fault try this procedure:--
1) Open the fuse panel and check the fuses for disrupted elements. The fuse panel at the driver's side kick panel, or between the dashboard and the door. In some cars the fuses are mounted in the engine compartment, in front of the driver's side firewall. Check the fuses and replace if faulty.
2) 
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5) If all the above mentioned possibilities are checked out ok then the window regulator needs to be checked. Inspect the window regulator's joints for rust or stiff movement, if the electrical system is operating correctly. These joints can corrode or break, causing the window to stop working. With the door panel off, the window regulator can be removed and replaced by sliding the glass away from the track mounts, then turning all mount bolts counterclockwise and manipulating the regulator out of the door.
 
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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