Question about 1984 Nissan 300ZX

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84 Z31 Turbo - Rough idle and poor slow accelleration

I just adjusted the distributor on My 84 300zx turbo (advanced the spark I guess). I did this because when I wanted to accellerate quickly, it would cough, like a ping or a misfire. But it would idle fine.

After the adjustment, it idles like **** and slow accelleration is full of missfires or pinging. When I stomp on it though, it hauls *** and behaves very well :)

To those who know - Please tell me if I can regain a smooth idle and keep the fast accelleration characteristics

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I would suggest a few things ... first and the most important... check that you have the wires in the proper order on the distributer. next have the timing checked.


Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Engine runs rough and gets worse when accellerating

Rough idle, stalls or
hesitate on acceleration :
.Spark plug faulty
. High-tension cords faulty
Ignition problems:
• Ignition coil
• Igniter
• Distributor
. Incorrect ignition timing
Vacuum leaks:
. PCV valve and line.. .
. EGR line..
. Intake manifold.
• Throttle body
• ISC valve
• Brake booster line

• Throttle body
• Brake booster line
. Incorrect idle speed
. Reset timing
. Adjust valve clearance
. Check fuel system . Check air cleaner
. Incorrect valve clearance
. EFI system problems
. Low compression

Dec 12, 2013 | 1989 Toyota Camry


How to use a timing light and adjust timing

1. Make sure the engine is off and the key is removed from the ignition.

2. Clamp the red clip to the positive terminal of your car battery.

3. Clamp the black clip to the negative terminal of your car battery.

4. The larger clip with the thickest insulation goes on your #1 spark plug wire by attaching the clip around the wire that leads to your #1 spark plug.

5. Next, you will want to rotate the lower crankshaft pulley so that the timing marks are visible on the crankshaft pulley. Be aware that on some cars the timing marks are located somewhere else and you should consult either your owner's manual or dealership.

6. Your automobile specifications sheet should tell you what your timing degree should be. For example:

1969 Ford 429
6 Degrees BTDC @ 550 rpm in drive gear
Automatic Trans
Firing order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

This means that you want to line up the pointer on the timing light with the 6° timing mark when the engine is idling in gear at 550 rpm. "BTDC" means Before Top Dead Center and "ATDC" means After Top Dead Center - top dead center is the point where the piston reaches the highest point in the cylinder and that is when the compression is the greatest.

The timing marks will have a line labeled "0" with marks above and below it, and depending on which way the wheel rotates, you will see the lines before the "0" (BTDC), or after the "0" (ATDC).

7. If you want, you can use some chalk to mark the timing marks to make them more visible. If there is a rubber hose on the side of the distributor, disconnect the rubber hose from the vacuum advance and put a plug in the end of the hose to seal it off temporarily.

8. Okay, now start up your engine, letting it warm up.

9. Take your timing light and aim it at the timing marks, pressing the button on the light. Because you have the light hooked up to your spark plug means that it has current passing through it every time your spark plug fires, making the light go on and off, creating a strobe effect. Because of this, the timing marks should appear to be standing still. Now, is the pointer pointing at the correct mark? If yes, you are all set, you do not need to adjust your timing. If it is not, you should adjust your timing.

10. Adjust the Timing by looking below the distributor, at the base of your distributor shaft, for a fastener called the distributor hold-down clamp. We want to loosen this fastener so the distributor can turn on the shaft. Grasp the vacuum advance and move it back and forth.

11. Rotate the distributor slightly, and then aim your timing light back at the timing marks again. How does it look? If it is farther away from the marks, then move the distributor in the opposite direction. Then, check again with your timing light. Continue doing this until the pointer is pointing at the correct degree point as required.

12. Once the timing is good, tighten the fastener for the distributor hold-down clamp, making sure you do not move the distributor. After tightening this fastener, double check your timing to ensure it is still correct.

13. Turn off your engine, remove the key from the ignition, and disconnect the timing light.

on Sep 28, 2010 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 66 Chevy pickup, I need to know what degree to set the timing. It's a 292 engine.

Hi, I know a trick to adjusting your timing. you will need an assistant. if the truck has an automatic transmission, you can have someone put the vehicle in reverse or drive, keeping the brake pedal pressed down firmly, press the accellerator pedal, advance the timing by turning the distributor, until you get spark knock. Then turn it back just until the spark knock goes away. this may not be the factory spec, but it will give you optimum performance.

Jan 15, 2013 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 1998 saturn SL2 chokes when I'm accellerating, but if I decellerate immediately it will keep running. Especially on hills or when trying to accellerate quickly. Any ideas?

No check engine light? Have to guess, you might need to replace the plug wires, it could be a clogged fuel filter/regulator, or possibly the fuel pump.

Feb 10, 2011 | 1998 Saturn SL

1 Answer

1991 chevy s10 4.3 v6 new rotor and cap new spark plugs and wires and still not running smooth skipping andy suggestions

Check your knock sensor, and timing.

The distributor is controlled by the computer and springs, I can't recall but I don't remember seeing springs in there. Regardless, check anyways to see if there is any binding to your counter weights in the distributor.

Start with finding out why your check engine light is coming on, this way there is no expensive guessing work. Here is a link for you to retrieve the DTC codes and post me back. Be glad to help you get your S-10 running 100% again soon. eek.gif
Recheck your timing and you'd notice more difference if you increased your static timing advance from the stock setting of 10 Deg BTDC to 15 deg BTDC or so. Be sure when you adjust timing to disable the ESC circuit according to the manual. Otherwise the timing will be off scale and you won't even be able to see where it is with a timing lite.

The connector you're looking for is located in the passenger footwell, sometimes covered by the carpet/floor mat. It is a black connector, that has a tan/black wire in each side. Disconnect this wire and you will be able to see the base timing.

The ECM will control the timing with that wire connected. When it is disconnected the timing advance is controled strictly by the ICM (Ignition Control Module) located on the base of the dizzy.

How to set:
The vehicle emission control information label, which is found underhood, will often contain specifications or procedures for checking and adjusting timing that have been updated during production.

Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels, then warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Shut the engine OFF and connect the a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug (right front 2.8L engine, left front 4.3L engine or front plug on in-line engines):

If using a non-inductive type, connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the spark plug wire; DO NOT puncture the spark plug wire, for this will allow a voltage arc.

If using an inductive type, clamp it around the No. 1 spark plug wire.
If using a magnetic type, place the probe in the connector located near the damper pulley; this type must be used with special electronic timing equipment. Do not under any circumstances pierce the insulation of a spark plug wire in order to connect the timing light.

Clean off the timing marks, then label the pulley or damper notch and the timing scale with white chalk or paint for better visibility. If the timing notch on the damper or pulley is not visible from the top, the crankshaft should be bumped around using the starter or turned using a wrench on the front pulley bolt, in order to bring the mark to an accessible position.

Model vehicles equipped with EST, the electronic spark timing must be disabled or bypassed to prevent the control module from advancing timing while you are attempting to set it. This would obviously lead to an incorrect base timing setting.

There are 2 possible methods of disabling the EST system, depending on the type of engine:

On 2.5L engines, ground the "A" and "B" terminals on the ALDL connector under the dash before adjusting the timing.

On all other engines using the EST distributor, disengage the timing connector wire. On a few of the earlier model vehicles, the 4-terminal EST connector must be disengaged from the distributor, but most later model vehicles are equipped with a single wire timing bypass connector.

On these later model vehicles the bypass wire is usually a tan wire with a black stripe. This wire usually breaks out of the wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributor, but on some vehicles it may break out of a taped section just below the heater case in the passenger compartment.

Start the engine, then check and adjust the idle speed, as necessary. The idle speed must be properly set to prevent any centrifugal advance of timing in the distributor.

Aim the timing light at the timing marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, which may appear to be standing still. Keep your clothes and hair along with the timing light's wires clear of the fan, belts and pulleys. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark, the timing will have to be adjusted.

TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0° mark on the scale. Either B, BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center, may be shown as BEFORE on the scale, while A, ATDC or After Top Dead Center, may be shown as AFTER.

Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy special wrenches which make this task a lot easier on certain models. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ******, and against the direction to advance.

Once the timing is properly set, hold the distributor to keep it from the turning and tighten the locknut. Check the timing again after finishing with the nut in case the distributor moved as you tightened it.
If applicable, remove the plug and connect the distributor vacuum hose.
Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST wire (if equipped), then disconnect the timing light and tachometer. biggrin.gif

Also you may want to inspect the EGR to see if it's stuck, which may be causing our issue when the engine is under load.

Apr 19, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

2 Answers

94 f-150 runs rough

The distributor cap and rotor should be changed if this does not help replace the ignition module located within the distributor Headers increase the local temperature near the spark plug boots make sure you have a thick high quality spark plug wire boot surrounding the spark plugs, an old timer trick is to start the truck up cold at night in a dark local and spray the plug wires and dist. cap with a light mist of water to detect any weakness in the ignition wiring, any arc outs see must be adressed.

Sep 06, 2009 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

88 suburu 1.8 liter getting gas but wont start , just changed plugs and wires, could it be the turbo

the turbo has nothing to do with starting
check for spark with a timing light

Aug 28, 2009 | 1988 Subaru GL-10

1 Answer

Timing setting for a automatic mazda mx6 92

The non-turbo 2.2 Liter engine?
6 Degrees.
Should be on your Emissions label under the hood.

(Firing Order is 1-3-4-2. Front of the vehicle is Number 1 spark plug. Distributor rotation is -> Counterclockwise. Spark plug gap is .044
44 thousandths of an inch)

Turbo 2.2 Liter engine?
9 Degrees. Emissions label is under hood.

(Firing Order is 1-3-4-2 Front of vehicle is Number 1 spark plug. Distributor rotates ->Counterclockwise. Spark plug gap is .044)

Aug 12, 2009 | 1992 Mazda MX-6

4 Answers

Gm carb 305 timing problem

On the distributor, Check for advance weighrs. As your rpm increases the weights advance the timing. If they are rusted or a spring is streched or broken you will have to correct that. Hold the drive end and rotate thw rotor end back and forth to make dure the advance plate works freely and not sticking. It should spring back when you release it after turning it.What yr. is this rngine?Carburated, never mind. Ok, making sure the distributor is all free and cleaned up. Turn the dist. upside down and shake to make sure nothing falls out. You seem to have the timing thing down, but let me go through it just so I keep my train of thought.Actually I'm thinking out loud. #1 cyl on comp stroke-timing marks set to 8 degreesBTC. GO TO DISTRIBUTORdeternine #1 plug wire tower. Regardless of distributor body position as long as little tin window is around 6 o clock, Insert the distributor so the rotor is pointing at #1 tower.the mark you made so you know where that is..Should be @ 4 or5 o clock. When you drop the distributorin you will notice it turn so compensate soby dropping it a tooyh or two back.The rotor should be in the sweep of the #1 tower when you rotate the distributor. Hook up the coil wire and put the clamp on the distrutor but don't tighten it.With ignition on, #1 plug in #2 wire, lay the plug down on a good ground. Now slowly rotate the dristributor until #1 pops out a spark for you. You may have to go back and forth until you feel comfortable with when the coil fires. I don't know if you have a vacuum advance or not, but the vacuum advance points in the direction of distributor rotation. You want the spark to hit as you are rotating the distributor against the rotor rotation. Now the spark will hit at 8 degrees BTC before any weight or vacuum plays into it. Snug down your distributor and if you do have a little tin window, Stick the ole' in there and adjust the points to 28-32 degrees dwell. If no window, no sweat. It's an HEI, right? Let me know if you run into trouble. You can check your max advance if you like butgoing by that is assuming it's ok when it's not doing 3000 rpms. Better we assume the max is ok and know the bottom (start and low speed) is right on. Good Luck.

Jul 25, 2009 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

2 Answers

Ford engine doesn't start after self tune up

Ok here is the meaning of firing order The numbers 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 represent the order of wish cylinder the distributor send a spark as it rotates Starting whit cylinder number 1 The distributor will have to rotor on the number 1 cylinder spark plug and the piston on the number 1 cylinder will be at the top So the fuel and air will be compressed and ignited by the spark plug. The next one will be the cylinder number 5 to do the same as the crankshaft and distributor rotate Next will be number 4 then 2 then 6 ? 7 ? 8. You get the idea "10 Degrees" The degrees represent of spark advance You may think gas explode instantly but it actually take a little time So for the explosion has maximum power when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the distributor send the spark a little ahead of time 10 degrees of revolution is the recommended by the manufacture but that can be adjust buy losing up the distributor clap bolt and manually turn it. In order to adjust that you need a timing gun Than will flash light on the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) and you will see a notch and a series of numbers than represents the timing advance Note If you have not turn the distributor by loosing to button clap bolt I recommend to live it alone and go to you local part store and get the repair manual find the firing order to see wish wire go to wish cylinder Rotate the crack shaft pulley on till the notch is on 0 and see if the distributor rotor is tours cylinder number one. Cars than don?t used distributor do that automatically and constantly adjust the ignition timing by the computer.

Jun 08, 2009 | 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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