Question about Ford Fairmont

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Electrical 1981 ford fairmont battery keeps going dead. replaced the alternator starter starter solinoid voltage regulator new battery but what would keep drawing down the batery?

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  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    put in a new alternator and not geting higher voltage on baterie

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    Electrical draw even with key off? Drains battery every night.


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If you have a volt meter check to see if there is a drain on the battery when the car is off, you can then pull each fuse to see which circuit is causing the draining. Sounds easy, but I have also seen cases where somone left change (a penny) in the cigarette lighter causing a short cirucit.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Briefly installed battery backwards. 2000 Ford Ranger. New Battery, new alternator, but alternator not charging battery. Truck starts on battery-new starter motor. Lights work, all electrical works

Is this the alternator that was in the vehicle when you hooked the battery up wrong? If so, you probably blew out the voltage regulator in the alternator.


Jan 11, 2015 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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No electrical. battery, starter.\, alternator good. New silinoid and voltage regulator

Check fuseable link wires(original ones have flags on them) that are on battery side of the starter solenoid.

Jul 11, 2014 | 1981 Ford F 150

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I lost all electrical power

test battery with volt meter should have 13 volts. If lessthan 13 volts have alternator tested at local parts store (most do it for free) If battery voltage is ok check cable from battery to starter solinoid . if cable is good check negative battery cable going to body (grounding cable).if all is ok check starter solinoid (you may have to remove starter and take it to your parts store for testing. Most test for free like Autozone. a bad solinoid will do this . I replace the starter and solinoid as a unit it saves a lot of work.if this was helpful please leave me good feedback.

Mar 06, 2013 | 2005 Ford F-150

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Alternater wont charge battery and fusable link on starter keeps burning

Bad voltage regulator. Usually built-into alternator.
Start car and unplug battery, if it dies your alternator is dead. Get new alternator. If car keeps running, get a voltmeter and check voltage coming through - should be higher than 12v but less than 18v. Any other number means your voltage regulator is dead, cheaper to get a new alternator.

Jan 11, 2013 | 2000 Dodge Neon

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2002 Ford Focus, driving down road, airbag light comes on, dashlights go out, engine runs rough then quits. Restarts, goes one block, quits again.

Symptoms of a charging system problem. The charging system comprises the alternator, battery and associated wiring. If the alternator should fail to produce a sufficient or stable enough voltage for the car's electronic systems - due to a wiring short, faulty voltage regulator, or corroded electrical connector, for example - the car will run off the "reserve" in the battery for a short time until the battery is eventually depleted. (The battery itself could also contribute to the problem if it has a faulty cell or for some reason is causing the alternator to put out an excessively high voltage in an attempt to compensate.)

So a couple of quick checks: Measure the battery voltage with the car off. Yours sounds like it will be dead; the clicking while attempting to start is the starter relay not getting enough juice. Then the question becomes: Is the battery dead because of age (fails to hold a charge) or because the alternator isn't charging it? To answer this question, measure the voltage at the battery with the car running. (Jump it or substitute a known good 12V battery.) You should see 14+V. If you only see 12V or less, you're seeing only the current battery charge without any contribution from the alt.

Finally, don't assume because the alt isn't putting out anything the alt is at fault. The wiring harness and electrical connector to the back of the alt should be thoroughly examined. (The wiring connector is a known failure point on early models.) The wiring harness should obviously show no signs of burning, melting or chafing and the battery terminals should be corrosion free and tight. If the harness checks out, remove the alt and have it bench tested. Rebuilding usually gives better long term reliability than chain store bought reman units, I'm told.

Long story short, I suspect the voltage regulator in your alternator failed, the battery gave it's all trying to keep your car running, finally gave up and now you have a dead alt and a dead battery. Don't just install a new battery without doing the alternator voltage output tests.

If you're really lucky it could be as simple as loose or corroded battery terminals.

Dec 31, 2012 | 2002 Ford Focus

2 Answers

Charging gauge bouncing back and forth starts after jump

sounds like a shorted field in the alternator

Nov 07, 2009 | 1981 Ford F 150

1 Answer

Makes winning noise when turning the ignition over but wont turn over

replace the starter solenoid on the inside fender well passenger side.

Apr 22, 2009 | 1981 Ford F 150

1 Answer

1981 ford fairmont electrical

Looks like you have replaced all of the key parts, and then some. At this point I would verify that the alternator is charging the battery. With engine off, check battery voltage. Start the engine and check thre voltage again. It should climb to charging voltage, around 13.0 to 13.5 volts. If it doesn't, check all connections. On a vehicle this old, I would start with the ground circuits.
Good luck.

Dec 21, 2008 | 1983 Ford Fairmont

1 Answer

My baterry keeps on going dead and i had the altenator checked and it passed

Here's the key parts of the electrical system.
Battery: the source of your electrical energy
Alternator: The charging source for the battery. Driven by the engines rotation via a fan belt
Regulator: tells the alternator when your battery needs to be charged and how much.
The Load: all of the devices that use the batteries energy

If you have replaced the battery 3 times we can rule out the battery as the problem
You had the alternator check and it passed. We can rule out the alternator
The load: It's fixed and for the most part you can control most of this with knobs on the dash
That leaves only the regulator. If the regulator is giving bad info to the alternator that could account for the problem.

Try this ( if you don't have a voltmeter, places like AutoZone can make these measurements)
Start the engine and measure the voltage at the output of the alternator. It should be about 13.5 to 14.0 volts. Then measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should read the same as what you got at the alternator. If it's not,check the battery cables for clean bright connectors. Use a battery terminal brush to clean the. If this still doesn't help check the regulator.

Hope this helps

Good luck Loringh

Oct 22, 2008 | 2001 Mitsubishi Montero

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