Question about 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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All cylinders full of fuel

Engine ran rough and cut off, would not crank, pulled plugs and found all cylinders full of fuel. pulled upper intake and it was full of fuel.

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  • slaeger Dec 27, 2008

    why would a coil pack cause the cylinders to flood with fuel as well as the upper intake?

  • slaeger Dec 28, 2008

    You should learn how to spell and most shop labor rates including mine are $85.00 an hour.

  • slaeger Dec 28, 2008

    Well pard I have been an ASE Master Technician for about 20 years and I am GM Master Technician in all GM lines. I have not worked on many fords and I though this would be a good place to find a little info. Looks like I was wrong. I think I will stick to the professionals. Buy the way what exactly is a class A mechanic, do you work on motorhomes? You should not offer advice about things you know nothing about.

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COIL PACK??????

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • John Jon Dec 27, 2008

    you marked me treing to help inaproperate! go pay $68.00 per hour for repair and service!

  • John Jon Dec 28, 2008

    If your paying $85.00 per hour your not getting any preferred customer treatment I usually charge higher cost to if I do not want that customers business it usually discourages them! I have been class "A" mechanic for 18 years now I do the good samaritan thing from time to time it is unfortunate people as your self do not appreciate it! have a nice day>>>>>>>

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I have a 2008 Chevy Impala lt it was cutting out every now and again then check engine light came on with the error code p0303 hubby changed all plugs and wires and now when you crank the car it is running...


I doubt the problem is a head gasket.
It sounds like a wiring problem or something affecting the injectors and/or ignition. A very lean fuel mixture could cause the running rough and backfiring problems. So could an ignition problem where the plugs are firing on the wrong cylinders.
The V6 engine does use plug wires, and its possible some of the plug wires are on the wrong plugs.
A leaking intake gasket could also cause the symptoms.

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2002 Buick Century Limited 3.1L rough idle and P305 code shows up


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2001 Buick Regal keeps stalling and running rough has white smoke coming out of tail pipe


The upper intake plenum is leaking coolant into the cylinder heads. The head gaskets on this motor are awesome. So, chances are it's the upper intake plenum. You can check this, by removing the vacuum hose that runs between the upper plenum and the brake booster. Stick your finger in and try to touch the top of the lower intake manifold. If your finger is wet it the upper plenum. You might as well replace the lower intake gasket while you're performing this work because they are prone to failure also. Use a shop vac to pull any coolant out of the cylinder heads. Get brand new spark plugs because the old ones are probably fouled. Once you get the plenum and gaskets replaced, remove your fuel pump relay and leave the spark plugs out and turn the engine over repeatedly for about 10 seconds to push any excess coolant out of the cylinder heads. Then, put the spark plugs in and turn the engine over for 10 seconds again. This will burn excess fuel as coolant out. Then, replace the fuel pump relay to allow fuel to be pumped into the heads. Car will smoke for a few when it fires up, but will clear out quickly. CHANGE THE OIL! Twice within a week if possible.

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Cranks but won't start



Trouble Code: P0300

Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:


Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system Base engine mechanical fault that affects two or more cylinders Erratic or interrupted CKP or CMP Sensor signals Fuel delivery component fault that affects two or more cylinders (i.e., a contaminated, dirty or sticking fuel injector)


Trouble Code: P0302

Cylinder 1-10 Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:


Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system Base engine mechanical fault that affects only one cylinder Fuel delivery component fault that affects only one cylinder (e.g., a dirty fuel injector)


Trouble Code: P0305

Cylinder 1-10 Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:


Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system Base engine mechanical fault that affects only one cylinder Fuel delivery component fault that affects only one cylinder (e.g., a dirty fuel injector)


Trouble Code: P0351

Ignition Coil No. 1, 2 or 3 Primary Circuit
Possible Causes:


ASD relay power circuit to the ignition coil is open Ignition Coil No. 1, 2 or 3 primary "driver" circuit open or grounded Ignition Coil No. 1, 2 or 3 is damaged or it has failed


Trouble Code: P0352

Ignition Coil No. 1-8 Primary Circuit
Possible Causes:


ASD relay power circuit to the ignition coil is open Ignition coil primary "driver" circuit open or grounded


Trouble Code: P0353

Ignition Coil No. 1-8 Primary Circuit
Possible Causes:


ASD relay power circuit to the ignition coil is open Ignition coil primary "driver" circuit open or grounded Ignition coil is damaged or it has failed PCM has failed Ignition coil is damaged or it has failed PCM has failedPCM has failed Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in only one cylinder Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in only one cylinder Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in two or more cylinders Vehicle driven with low fuel pressure or while very low on fuel

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Started engine and was running rough Check engine lamp came on Used code reader and found code p0306 Remove plugs Compression test no.6 was 175 and the rest were 150 replaced spark plugs and retry Still...


You've done a great job of trouble shooting thus far. I would certainly suspect the injector after all of that. But, I didn't see anything about you replacing the spark plug itself. I would try that first as a crack in the insulator (even hairline) will cause mis-fires. If the spark plug doesn't fix the mis-fire, it cold be caused by a bad fuel injector, bad signal (like a loose harness or bad wire) to the fuel injector, or a leak or valve issue on that cylinder.

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1997 chevy cheyenne c2500...i get a popping noise when i press the accelerator...help meeeeee please...197,000miles i frustrated


Does it idle smooth or rough? Steady loping miss at idle? Loses power as rpm's increase? I'm a shadetree mechanic, and even though your engine is a vortec, it still uses these parts, so you may find this useful.

Make sure your plug wires are good, start it after dark, raise the hood, in darkness you should see tiny sparks jumping from the wires if they are bad.

Most likely cause of my intake backfiring was #5 & #7 plug wires switched. Bad plug wires can also short onto each other and cause the wrong cylinder to fire while it's intake valve is still open, igniting back into the intake. 350 chevy firing order is 18436572. #5 & #7 are on the driver side, the closest to the back. #7 fires right after #5, by switching them I had caused #5 to fire too late / #7 too early hitting the accelerator causes the spark timing to advance, firing #7 while the intake valve was still closing, sending flame up into the raw fuel charged intake, causing the explosion or POP under the hood. The symptom I had was rough idle, stumbling / popping on acceleration, which got much worse as it warmed up.

OTHER PROBLEMS TO LOOK AT:
replace fuel filter, and have a mechanic check the fuel pressure. He can tell you whether the pressure regulator or the fuel pump is bad. Low fuel pressure will lead to engine damage as you'll see below. It causes the combustion gases to run too hot, warping valves.

I have a 95 c2500 with 350 Throttle body injection(not vortec), the problem I had was multiple. The timing chain was extremely worn out, causing erratic timing. The fuel pump was bad( causing loss of power as rpm increased)( letting that continue for 6 mos caused several intake and exhaust valves to overheat, warp and burn). The Throttle position sensor was bad, causing transmission shifting / slamming at odd rpms, and possibly contributing to the popping(backfiring up through the intake). The temp sensor on the intake was bad(cold temp fuel mixture control), and the oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe had the wires pulled out of it(warm temp fuel mixture control). The spark control module also was bad(causes misfires). Later I also had 2 spark plug wires that were on the wrong plugs(the main cause of the intake backfiring). It is an old work truck, 190,000 miles, many parts/gallons of sweat later, now it runs strong. These motors are worth repairing, as long as the oil-pressure is good and the compression is still decent. I've had 3 vehicles before this one, same motor, great mileage, power and reliability. I've heard the vortecs are even better, as long as the oil gets changed regularly.

Start cheap. Try each item, if that is not it, go to the next( or spend a hundred or so on a full diagnostic by a well established mechanic(not a tire installer who just started his ASE studies. good engine diagnosis requires years of experience and teardowns to be able to determine the causes while running) :
1.) While engine is running in park, use plastic pliers(shock protection, be careful!!!) to remove and reconnect a plug wire at the coil. Listen for a change in the idle speed and smoothness. Move to the next if you hear a change, this means that that plug and wire are working properly(disconnecting them causes the motor to idle up, run rougher). If unplugging them doesn't cause a change: That wire or plug is likely bad. take both to an autoparts store to be tested. Replace the problem part, if that does not fix a miss, see #2 below.
2.) Do a cylinder compression test, to see if you have any valve issues. I bought a $40 compression tester kit. It takes about an hour, but it will tell you alot about the engines health. Mine had a range of 140-170 psi, except for #1( 0 psi, cracked and torched valve) and #7(120 psi, warped valve), I had to pull the intake and that head off for replacement valves(got lucky, cast iron head was not warped)
3.)pull, test(a mechanic can do this) and if necessary replace the throttle position sensor($23 part on tbi motors). This tells the computer how much gas pedal you are using. If it is bad, you fuel mixture will be erratic and can cause misfires, and your transmission may be shifting weird / hard.
4.) Replace the spark plugs with original AC Delco, use good wires, cap and rotor. Cheaper parts can have too much resitance to electric flow, causing poor running. I switched from autolite platinums--> to Delco = huge difference.
5.) If the timing chain is original. It is time, trust me. Mine had so much slop, I was amazed it had not jumped a tooth. This will cause poor power / erratic idle / possible backfiring if really advancing / retarding ignition. Unless you are a mechanic, this is not recommended for do it yourself. The upper radiator housing, fan, waterpump, timing cover and oil-pan have to be dropped and regasketed afterwards. Hours of fun.

my truck sequence of events:
Bought spring '08, noticed poor power / slight miss, replaced plugs wires cap rotor, repaired rear brake line rust-out, new tires, mechanic replaced fuel filter, advised fuel pump was not putting out enough pressure, tried ignoring and drove till fall--> developed REALLY severe miss( no intake backfiring), barely made it home.

Starting this spring: Compression test --> valve issues, removed all front engine components(alt, P.S.(pressed on pulley will need a puller kit to remove)), intake manifold and driverside cylinderhead(found a hole in #1 exhaust valve big enough to slide pencil through), had 4 valves replaced at machine shop, reassembled engine, dropped gastank, replaced fuelpump assembly and fuel-lines(rusted), replaced oxy sensor on exhaust manifold, started motor and set timing(while computer timing wire was disconnected under dashboard), ran rough / intake backfiring upon any acceleration, erratic timing, replaced timing chain = steady timing, still ran rough/backfire though, replaced temp sensor(no change), tested barometric pressure module = ok, replaced distributor(unnecessary), replaced throttle position sensor = ran a little better/still backfiring/ transmission problem fixed too, ran resistance check on wires with ohmmeter-->found #5 & #7 plug wires were switched, fixed that, ran great, replaced exaust system behind the converter, sounds great / runs great / lesson learned. If a mechanic advises a repair, get a second opinion... but don't ignore it, it creates bigger problems, like torched valves.
Good luck.

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1 Answer

2000 sebring won't start


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All cylinders full of fuel. 4.0L V6


Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm has ruptured. When this happens fuel is drawn in from the manifold vacuum and if the leak is severe enough the fuel pump pressure will push it in as well. The unit is a small component that resides on the fuel injector rail and will have a vacuum hose running to it. Remember you are working with GASOLINE and lots of it so be careful!

Dec 27, 2008 | 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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