Question about 1996 Toyota Previa

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Freeze plug Previa

I am having coolant leakage on my Previa - the dealer says that the engine will have to be removed to get at it. $1800+.   Does this make sense?  Do you think a more skilled mechanic could get at the freeze plug by just loosening something?
thanks
tomlwallace@gmail.com

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  • Adrian Lock
    Adrian Lock Jan 08, 2009

    I have the same problem with mine and the garage have said the same, possible £1000 with engine removal and parts. it,s a stupid set up.

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Freeze plugs are hard to get to. coolant is cheaper , keep adding coolant, keep some with y ou in the car.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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Overheating


Was the coolant old and weak? At ten degrees, a weak coolant could result in freezing and that can cause an engine freeze plug to burst open. Check the side of the engine block for signs of leakage around the freeze plugs. Another possibility is the heater hoses. They run along the passenger side of the engine as well. The last possibility is the heater core. If it leaks you may smell coolant inside the passenger compartment. You MAY get a wet floorboard on the passenger side. Coolant leaking from the core usually will fall into the condensation pan for the A/C and run out of the passenger compartment thru the firewall on the passengers side.

Jan 07, 2014 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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Things to test when checking cooling system


<p>A leak detection additive is available through the parts department that can be added to cooling system. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light) (1). Pour one ounce of additive into cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate engine until the radiator upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at components to be checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.<br /> <p>The black light can be used in conjunction with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist .<br /> <p><b>PRESSURE TESTER METHOD</b><br />he engine should be at normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located during the warm engine examination. <br /> WARNING <p> HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.<br /> <p>Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the filler neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to disengage it from the stop tabs. Wipe the inside of filler neck and examine the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.<br /> <p>Inspect cams on the outside of filler neck. If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap valve and tester seal will be affected.<br /> <p>Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to radiator filler neck (1).<br /> <p>Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi) pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condition of the cooling system according to the following criteria:<br /> <p><b>Holds Steady:</b> If the pointer remains steady for two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in system. However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to <a>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</a>.<br /> <p><b>Drops Slowly:</b> Indicates a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak holes and inspect system again with pressure applied.<br /> <p><b>Drops Quickly:</b> Indicates that serious leakage is occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.<br /> <a></a> <p><b>INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION</b><br /> <p>Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a short period to churn the oil. After this is done, remove engine dipstick and inspect for water globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for water globules and the transmission fluid cooler for leakage.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 KPA (21 PSI). PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE, ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.<br /> <p>Operate the engine without the pressure cap on the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair as necessary.<br /> <p>If there is not an immediate pressure increase, pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi). Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage into cooling system.<br /> <p>Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, <b>do not</b> remove spark plug cables or short out cylinders to isolate compression leak.<br /> <p>If the needle on the dial of pressure tester does not fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.<br /> <p>A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into cooling system is provided by a commercially available Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers instructions when using this product.<br /> <p><b>COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER</b><br /> <p>DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.<br /> <br /> WARNING <p> DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.<br /> <p>Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat removal(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Remove accessory drive belt or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).<br /> <p>Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> CAUTION <p> Avoid overheating. Do not operate engine for an excessive period of time. Open draincock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.<br /> <p>Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leaking into cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bubbles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage is not present.

on Jan 20, 2011 | Subaru Legacy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I'm from Argentina, I speak Spanish translator google I referred only to write in English!. I have a Toyota Previa LE 1991. I had to change the water radiator , having to empty all water from the...


OK this is not be a big problem. You have air in your coolant system. The temperature sensor is not immersed in coolant but is in an air pocket. When the engine is cool remove the coolant filler cap. Inside the car switch the heater controls to maximum. Switch the engine on. As the engine gets warmer squeeze the top rubber pipe between the engine and the radiator. Add more coolant to the filler cap to replace the air bubbles when they are expelled. When the engine is near operating temperature screw the coolant cap on tightly. Keep running the engine and keep squeezing the rubber pipes occasionally to help any air bubbles move. Make sure that the bottom rubber hose from the radiator back to the engine gets hot. Ensure that the fan for the radiator is running. Only when you are sure that no more air is in the system do you switch the car interior heater off. Check the coolant level when the engine has again cooled down and add more coolant if it looks low.

Jul 20, 2011 | 1991 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

1993 previa, engine water leaking from transmission bell housing at bottom. is there a freeze plug that is behind the bell housing??


yes there is a engine core plug and its behind and inside of the bell housing,, sorry its a gear box out job to fix it,,,or you could try
"block weld!" that may stop the leak for a short time,,,

Oct 18, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

Need to find engine coolant drain plug. The one on bottom of engine. Should be toward front of engine block.


usually on side of block,exhaust side,towards back,brass hexanogal bolt.need hoist to get underneath to find it.

Jun 30, 2010 | 1991 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

I have a Toyota 1988 4 cyl. 1800 engine . It gets really hot


Check anti-freeze level first. If anti-freeze level is fine check the thermostat, most likely it's sticking and not allowing the fluid to cycle out of the engine and into the radiator to cool off. After replacing thermostat if problem still presist it could be a blocked coolant passage in engine or in cylinder head. U said it's been completely rebuilt, I have seen were the person that rebuilt it installed the wrong head gaskets and that could be blocking the coolant passage as well. Mind you, a blocked coolant passage is the worse case scenario. I took for granted that you already checked to see if the fan is working if it's an electric fan.

Nov 21, 2009 | 2003 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Toyota previa 1993 startup problems


Does it spin at all? If not either the starter is bad or the engine is seized. Try to turn engine with a socket wrench on the crank pulley bolt. Anything happen to the truck just before you had starting problems (drive through a deep puddle, overheat the engine, lose oil pressure, blown head gasket)? If it was deep water the engine could have hydraulic lock from water in the cylinder(s), remove the spark plugs and try to turn it over with the starter. If it turns over clean, dry and re-install the plugs. If it overheated, ran with low oil pressure, or the oil was contaminated with coolant the engine is probably seized.

Feb 07, 2009 | 1997 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

1991 Toyota Previa


Please crank the engine again, and then remove all 4 spark plugs. Examine them & repost exactly what you see on the plugs.

Oct 05, 2008 | 1992 Toyota Previa

2 Answers

Antifreeze


Do this only if the engine is cold.Set the heater on.Remove the coolant expansion tank cap , place a suitable container under the radiator area , Look under the radiator (bottom rear side) for a plastic screw and loosen this by hand . Move swiftly not to get wet.Remove the bleeding screw on the top radiator hose.Flush the system with a coolant flush solution if the coolant is really dirty.Refit the drain plug , refill anti freeze (check with your parts supplier for the recommended ratio for your area(or your dealer)and top up with water.Run the engine and close the bleed screw once water comes out and replace the cap.Warm the vehicle up and remove the cap when it has cooled down again.Check coolant level and top up.Reset the heater off(if its summer there.)

Oct 02, 2008 | 1999 Land Rover Discovery

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