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Re: rear axle berrings
Tools needed- typical socket and ratchet set, Axle slide hammer, Wiz Wheel type rotary cut off tool, chisel, ball pein hammer, hydraulic press, bech vice
First you must remove the rear wheels, then you must remove the brake capiler and mounting bracket, remove the brake rotor. unbolt 4 nuts on back side of brake dust shield that hold the seal and bearing securly in place. then you must attatch the slide hammer to the axle shaft by using the vehicles lug studs and lug nuts. use the slide hammer to knock the axle shaft out of the housing. it generally takes about 10-15 hard slams before it comes loose. once axle shaft is free to come out remove the slide hammer and pull the shaft from the axle tube. place the axle shaft into a vise and use the cut off wheel to cut off the bearing spacer. cut parralell to shaft until you hear a snap sound once it snaps use the hammer to slide the spacer off the end of the shaft. next you need to cut the bearing off the shaft using a the same technique being careful not the cut the shaft or the seal retainer plate. once the bearing is off then you can slide off the old axle seal. now slide on a new axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing spacer. take assembly to a hydraulic press and press the spacer and bearing onto the shaft until it seats squarely and make sure its all the way down onto the axle shaft. lubricate bearing with gear oil. and install shaft back into axle tube making sure that the recess in the seal retainer plate lines up with the abs sensor wire. tighten all nuts evenly top off gear oil
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it seems that your axle shafts and such were just changed and the surfaces were never looked at that ate up those seals in the first place.. the brakes are adjusted too tight and this is also causing heat to buld up in the wheels..this can also burn out the seals and cause failure..gotta take it all apart again and check the bearing seal surfaces for any burrs or reasons for these seals to get cut up.. also when reinstalling these put some gear oil on the seal surfaces so they arent dry-ran on the shafts..this will destroy them also.. clean off the oil on the brake surfaces wit carb cleaner so it will evaporate quickly then reassemble..wheels shouild spin freely with little drag on them while turning by hand..
Check your wheel berrings by jacking up the frount of the car up until the wheels are off of the ground and then see if the tire wiggles around if it does the berring is shot if the tire is solid then the berring should be fine
For the rear diff., remove the driveshaft, brake drums, diff. cover, remove pinion flange nut, move diff carrier to access side gear retainer bolt and remove bolt, slide side gear pin out and push axles in to remove axle retainers and remove axels. Mark carrier bearing retainers, spin bearing retainers to loosen carrier for removal. Remove carrier, remove pinion out of diff case, then r&r bearings. Any shims should be replaced in their original location for depth and pinion to ring contact.
You forgot to state front or rear, take off the tire remove the grease cap with plyers remove cotter pin remove nut, remove washer, wiggle the hub and outer berring will fall out. The inner berring may be pressed into the back of the hub. If so you will have to knock it out with a hammer. Getting it back in could be difficult. It can also be hammered back in. ( the new berrings must be repacked with grease by you) This is a process whereas you force grease into the berring. The install the hub install the outer berring put on washer tighten nut with plyers then back off 1/8 turn. install pin install cap install tire. after 50 miles of driving lift car and wiggle tire with hands to feel for any play in the berring....because this is your first time!
you can use a long rod or pipe inserted from the opposite side to try and drive the bearing out. Make sure what ever you use is clean so you do not get dirt/rust in the other bearing. Better yet replace both bearings and both seals while you have the cover off and the axles out.
make sure the wheel hub surfaces are clean and free of rust both in front of and behind the rotors. also check that your rear brake adjusters are working correctly. also check wheel berring, balljoint and tierod ends for play. theres should be no play and berring should spin free of noise.
the bearing is actually part of a "hub assembly." If you are mechanically you can do it, if not, let someone elso do it. Take the big bolt off the axle and unbolt (probably 3 bolts) the bolts on the back of the flange the axle slides through and then just pull the hub off.... then replace.
do not replace only the bearing. replace hub assembly. remove rim/tire , remove caliper, mounting plate, rotor. . un bolt hub assembly, unplug abs. remove front axle nut if 4x4. you may need to rent the axle nut remove kit and hub puller. pull out hub. drive axle reward out of hub. install new part. do not torque hub over 90lbs. check with parts sell for spec
Or: I'll bet ya a buck you have a selec-track 4x4. in which case, you need to replace the c/v joint on the bad axle. The joint is encased in a rubber boot... on yours it's likely torn wide open. To remove, first put the spare on that wheel, or remove the center cap from the wheel that's there (small screws on the inside of wheel. Once back on car, with car lowered on ground, remove center nut that holds the axle into the hub. Put the nut on backwards and give it a smack with a hammer to get the axle spline moving free in the hub. Then, lift car up, remove wheel, remove brake caliper & rotor. suspend caliper with a piece of wire or good string so as not to put tension on hose. There are three bolts that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Remove them using the access hole in the wheel flange. Or, some are removed from behind the steering knuckle. (locate them using bolt holes in hub on wheel side as a location reference. the bolt heads are usually 12point.) Use a chisel and lots of wd40 or other solvent, working on seperating hub from knuckle till it comes free. (place chisel at the parting line and use a hammer. Once it begins to come out you can use big screwdrivers to work it the rest of the way out. (careful not to damage it) Remove the backwards nut and slide the bearing hub off. You should be now able to slide the axle out through the bearing hole. Axles with joints assembled are now just about as cheap as just the joint alone. It's much less work to get one. To re-assemble, sand off and lube the bearing hole and mating surface on hub. before replacing bearing, also lube the spline on the axle joint with good grease. Remainder of the job is just putting back what you removed. Torque center nut to 175lbs, replace cover and cotter pin if used on your axle