Question about 1994 Saab 900

4 Answers

SAAB clutch quits working at temperature.

When SAAB is off or just starting the clutch will work. After running for several minutes (15-20) the clutch will not engage.

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  • brittonfam Dec 27, 2008

    The clutch pedal works but the clutch shifter does not. No grinding, it won't move. Maybe we could force it/with some grinding. My daughter made one shift like that to get off the interstate but then nothing more. We had it towed home, my husband went out the next day, started it and drove it for 15 minutes. No problem. He left the motor running for 10 more minutes in park, tried again to drive it and the clutch shifter wouldn't move. It was in neutral.

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 409 Answers

Have you checked the fluid level in the clutch hydraulic system? It sure does sound like a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. Is there any resistance on the clutch pedal or does it push down very easy?  Does the pedal sometimes stick to the floor board?  When you can drive it (my husband went out the next day, started it and drove it for 15 minutes. No problem) does it feel like the clutch is slipping  ie. engine rpm's increase but car speed does not?  You could try a quick bleed and see if the clutch comes back. To do this get a length of hose that fits over the end of the clutch slave bleeder valve and the left front brake caliper bleeder valve. Fill the system with fluid. Now install the hose over both bleeder valves (leave room to get a wrench on the bleeders) open both bleeder valves and have someone pump the BRAKE pedal very slowly up and down until resistance is felt on the BRAKE pedal. Once resistance is felt have them hold down on the BRAKE pedal while you close the bleeders. Go for a road test. 

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

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  • Master
  • 6,966 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Saabs are not that common in my country. However, on the premise that the clutch system follows basic design, then your description could possibly point to a problem with the master clutch cylinder (likely) and/or the clutch slave cylinder (most likely). This is especially so if part of the exhaust system runs near the clutch slave cylinder. In most vehicles, a clutch repair kit is available to address either possibilities. Of course bleeding would then have to be performed thereafter requiring two persons.

A friendly reminder, since this is a critical system, components have a certain sequence to their placement/assembly, specific tools and would involve working with irritating fluids, you may want to reconsider seeking the services of an on-site qualified professional.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,239 Answers

Hi
replace the black relay between the 2 blue relays in the fuse box. cost about 5 bucks. 

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 27, 2008

    When you jump the low pressure switch does the compressor run?


  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 27, 2008

    if   your fluid is contaminated ,loosen the bleeder on your slave cylinder and you will notice the fluid will come out wait till the reservoir is empty and clean the reservoir will a clean rag, take out as much dirt as you can from the reservoir. close the bleeder and pour a new dot3 brake fluid, you can re do the flushing as much as you can to clean the system. get someone who will help you finally bleed the system, because one has to pump the pedal and the other will open and close the bleeder. you should be all set after then. good luck!

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 27, 2008

    could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further 


  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Jan 01, 2009

    hi again

    you should take a look at the link between the transmission and the
    shifter... the Is a kind of rubber ball on it mine was screwed up and I
    was having a problem like to the one you have... Hope It helps!



    When the transmission was removed to replace the clutch they had separate
    the link the shifter. There is rectangular rubber block where they
    separated the linkage. It molded to a metal plate which gets secured to the
    linkage shaft to the transmission. This fusion of rubber to metal separates
    way before 150,000 miles, and should have been replaced when the
    transmission was out. It's a real stinker to do otherwise. A $5.00 to
    $10.00 part with about $40.00 in labor (Small-town labor rates).


    If it was the hydraulic system, your clutch disengagement would be real
    close to the floor and probably very little springiness to feel of the pedal
    since the clutch was just recently replaced.

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  • Master
  • 1,861 Answers

When you say it is not engaging, what exactly happens? You cannot shift the gears? Does it "rake", or the gearshift does not come out of a particular gear? Is the clutch pedal feel like it has no pressure against it/real easy to depress? Please respond so I may assist you better.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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