Question about 2005 Peugeot 405

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Changing brakes on a peugeot

Hi i am trying to change the rear brakes on my peugeot 406 estate and i am totally stuck! The pins that hold the brake pads inline are totally stuck. Am i doing something wrong or do i need a special tool to remove these? Or is it a garage job only? Please help!!
Cheers, Jeff

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  • magicstar123 Feb 22, 2009

    Hi, we have exactly the same problem on ours, did you manage to fix yours?

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You have to buy new pins from Peugeot, 33 quid for the four! then you have to cut or grind the old pins inside the brake pad area between the pads and the caliper, this is not easy though. Then remove the pads with the cut off pins. Now you should be able to knock the remainder of the pins out of the caliper, the only reason they won't come out is rust, typical french idiots, have they never heard of stainless steel?

Hope this helps, Steve E B

Posted on May 28, 2009

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I suggest a visit to your local library (or Amazon) and get the 'Haynes Manual' ..

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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SOURCE: Changing rear Brakes on a peugeot

Hi Jeff...

I'm afraid this isn't exactly a solution/fix... but I am literally a day or two away from doing this job myself and more importantly though, I've been able to remove the pins you're referring to... so I hope my experiences can help you here.

Btw, my peugeot 406 estate is the V6 version - first edition (I.e. I think '96ish to '99), with rear discs.

Right, the pins I think you're talking about are the biggish ones, which run cross-ways, through the pads & caliper housing. They should come out freely, although each is held in place with a spring-clip. To also confirm we're talking about the same thing, these biggish pins hold the anti-rattle cage in place, which you should be able to see, with the wheel off, looking at the caliper from the side (you should be able to see the sides/edges of the pads too). They are NOT the big bolts that secure the caliper in place.

Anyhow, I used a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the spring clips, then I used the pliers to give the big pin a quick twist (to check it would rotate/move freely, as compared to being rusted in). I then used one half of the pliers to poke the pin backwards. The hole that you push the pin through should be facing you, as you face the car/wheel/brake disc.

Hopefully you will find that by shoving something into this hole, the pin will move away from you, inwards, towards the car... then just move it along until it comes out the back of the caliper housing. BE CAREFUL that the anti-rattle cage doesn't spring off unexpectedly + MAKE SURE you note which way round it goes.

The job itself, I think, won't be hard (otherwise I wouldn't be doing it). However, I did invest in a Haynes manual, which is very good and covers this in detail.

Please note that I've only tried to explain how these pins get removed, not the whole process. I personally found that the big bolts which secure the caliper in place are the pigs to deal with. The nearside wasn't too bad but the offside, cos of the direction you have to turn the bolts through, was awful... and I nearly gave up cos I just COULDN'T get the lower bolt to budge (I did in the end but i was honestly at that one bolt for an hour).

Finally, in case the pad retaining pins are rusted-in, all I can suggest is VERY CAREFUL use of WD40/penetrating oil + trying to rotate the pin (as I mentioned earlier) + something like a nail (suitably thick), which can fit into the hole that the pin resides in and then tap the nail with a hammer, so that the pin gets knocked backwards.

Hope this helps a bit.



Cheers,

Gary

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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Hi Jeff...

I'm afraid this isn't exactly a solution/fix... but I am literally a day or two away from doing this job myself and more importantly though, I've been able to remove the pins you're referring to... so I hope my experiences can help you here.

Btw, my peugeot 406 estate is the V6 version - first edition (I.e. I think '96ish to '99), with rear discs.

Right, the pins I think you're talking about are the biggish ones, which run cross-ways, through the pads & caliper housing. They should come out freely, although each is held in place with a spring-clip. To also confirm we're talking about the same thing, these biggish pins hold the anti-rattle cage in place, which you should be able to see, with the wheel off, looking at the caliper from the side (you should be able to see the sides/edges of the pads too). They are NOT the big bolts that secure the caliper in place.

Anyhow, I used a pair of long nosed pliers to remove the spring clips, then I used the pliers to give the big pin a quick twist (to check it would rotate/move freely, as compared to being rusted in). I then used one half of the pliers to poke the pin backwards. The hole that you push the pin through should be facing you, as you face the car/wheel/brake disc.

Hopefully you will find that by shoving something into this hole, the pin will move away from you, inwards, towards the car... then just move it along until it comes out the back of the caliper housing. BE CAREFUL that the anti-rattle cage doesn't spring off unexpectedly + MAKE SURE you note which way round it goes.

The job itself, I think, won't be hard (otherwise I wouldn't be doing it). However, I did invest in a Haynes manual, which is very good and covers this in detail.

Please note that I've only tried to explain how these pins get removed, not the whole process. I personally found that the big bolts which secure the caliper in place are the pigs to deal with. The nearside wasn't too bad but the offside, cos of the direction you have to turn the bolts through, was awful... and I nearly gave up cos I just COULDN'T get the lower bolt to budge (I did in the end but i was honestly at that one bolt for an hour).

Finally, in case the pad retaining pins are rusted-in, all I can suggest is VERY CAREFUL use of WD40/penetrating oil + trying to rotate the pin (as I mentioned earlier) + something like a nail (suitably thick), which can fit into the hole that the pin resides in and then tap the nail with a hammer, so that the pin gets knocked backwards.

Hope this helps a bit.



Cheers,

Gary

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