Question about 1989 Ford Ranger
I need to relace carrier bearing, how do I get drive shaft apart to accomplish this??
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, pls reference this page. It is actually a How-to perform a one piece swap, an alternative you may want to consider.
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
Lowering the carrier bearing can correct the new vibration, but it's trickier
than it sounds. Because the carrier bearing is mounted on top of the crossmember, the
entire crossmember must be lowered. After all that, you can still have vibration problems
due to the design of the 2-piece shaft. The two U-joints at each end of the shaft (axle
and T-case) are not phased together, meaning the ears on the shaft are 90 degrees to each
other. If you lower the carrier bearing so that the two shaft sections are inline, you can
be guaranteed of vibration.
Instead of going through all that trouble of guessing and checking and maybe getting it
right, just ditch the two-piece shaft completely. 1998 and newer 4x4 Extended Cab Rangers
have a nice one-piece shaft that is a 90% bolt-in swap and will keep you free from
vibrations when you're riding high.
First, locate a one-piece shaft. Anything from a 98 or newer extended cab 4x4 Ranger or Mazda B-Series will work. It doesn't matter if it's a manual or automatic transmission, but the junkyard's computers will ask, so just pick either one. Some junkyards will also ask for the distance weld-to-weld: It is 47". Some of these will be aluminum and some steel. It's a matter of preferrence or availability which you get. Just make sure whatever it is it's not dented or bent.
Set your parking brake and block the wheels. Without a driveshaft, having the tranny in gear or in park is worthless. Mark the orientation of the ends of the driveshaft on the axle and transfer case. If you ever go to put the original shaft back in it is good to maintain the original orientation to avoid minor imbalances. Unbolt the carrier bearing from the crossmember first. Then unbolt the ends of the shaft from the flanges with a 12-point 12mm socket (your 6-point sockets won't work here). A light tap may be necessary to break the flanges apart.
Now is the easiest time to deal with a few clearance issues before you put the new driveshaft in. The bracket that the carrier bearing was bolted to needs to go. There are three rivets holding it to the crossmember that must be ground off and hammered through. They'll be rusted in there well so use a heavy hammer and a 3/8" socket extension as a punch once you've ground the heads off. There is a tab on the gas tank skidplate that bolted to the carrier bearing bracket that needs to go also.
If you have a suspension lift taller than 4" installed, you will also need to either move the entire crossmember forward some (drill new holes, reattach with bolts), or notch the center of it for clearance. This is so the shaft doesn't contact it (and possibly get dented) when the rear suspension is fully extended.
Complete removal is not recommended (it is a structural frame component).
The gas tank skidplate does not contact the driveshaft on level ground, but when the rear suspension flexes a lot, it will hit towards the rear of the skidplate and make an awful screeching sound that will make anything that isn't deaf wish it was. Remove the skid plate to do this trimming. Throwing sparks around your gas tank isn't a great idea, and you don't want to cut too deep and nick the tank either. There are four bolts holding the skid plate on that will probably be tight and a pain to get out, but well worth not sitting under the truck with a grinder and gas tank above your face. I took off a little more than an inch for the rear 2/3 of the skid plate and have not had any contact since trimming.
Bolt the skidplate back into place and then install your new driveshaft with the slip-joint towards the transfer case. Torque the driveshaft-to-flange bolts to 85 ft-lbs. There isn't a great demand for the two-piece shafts, so I'm going to see if I can extend the long section of the old shaft for use as a trail spare. Might work, might not. We'll see..
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 03, 2014 | 1999 Volvo S70
Dec 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Apr 22, 2013 | 1996 Chevrolet Camaro
Jan 13, 2013 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro
Jul 22, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Mar 26, 2011 | Lincoln MKZ Cars & Trucks
Apr 08, 2010 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab
Apr 07, 2010 | 2003 Saturn VUE
Oct 21, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup
Apr 24, 2009 | 2002 Saturn VUE
49 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!