Question about 1989 Ford Ranger

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How does the driveshaft come apart

I need to relace carrier bearing, how do I get drive shaft apart to accomplish this??

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls reference this page. It is actually a How-to perform a one piece swap, an alternative you may want to consider.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

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  • Master
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Lowering the carrier bearing can correct the new vibration, but it's trickier than it sounds. Because the carrier bearing is mounted on top of the crossmember, the entire crossmember must be lowered. After all that, you can still have vibration problems due to the design of the 2-piece shaft. The two U-joints at each end of the shaft (axle and T-case) are not phased together, meaning the ears on the shaft are 90 degrees to each other. If you lower the carrier bearing so that the two shaft sections are inline, you can be guaranteed of vibration. Instead of going through all that trouble of guessing and checking and maybe getting it right, just ditch the two-piece shaft completely. 1998 and newer 4x4 Extended Cab Rangers have a nice one-piece shaft that is a 90% bolt-in swap and will keep you free from vibrations when you're riding high.
First, locate a one-piece shaft. Anything from a 98 or newer extended cab 4x4 Ranger or Mazda B-Series will work. It doesn't matter if it's a manual or automatic transmission, but the junkyard's computers will ask, so just pick either one. Some junkyards will also ask for the distance weld-to-weld: It is 47". Some of these will be aluminum and some steel. It's a matter of preferrence or availability which you get. Just make sure whatever it is it's not dented or bent.
Set your parking brake and block the wheels. Without a driveshaft, having the tranny in gear or in park is worthless. Mark the orientation of the ends of the driveshaft on the axle and transfer case. If you ever go to put the original shaft back in it is good to maintain the original orientation to avoid minor imbalances. Unbolt the carrier bearing from the crossmember first. Then unbolt the ends of the shaft from the flanges with a 12-point 12mm socket (your 6-point sockets won't work here). A light tap may be necessary to break the flanges apart.
how does the driveshaft come apart - driveshaft2.jpgNow is the easiest time to deal with a few clearance issues before you put the new driveshaft in. The bracket that the carrier bearing was bolted to needs to go. There are three rivets holding it to the crossmember that must be ground off and hammered through. They'll be rusted in there well so use a heavy hammer and a 3/8" socket extension as a punch once you've ground the heads off. There is a tab on the gas tank skidplate that bolted to the carrier bearing bracket that needs to go also.
If you have a suspension lift taller than 4" installed, you will also need to either move the entire crossmember forward some (drill new holes, reattach with bolts), or notch the center of it for clearance. This is so the shaft doesn't contact it (and possibly get dented) when the rear suspension is fully extended.
Complete removal is not recommended (it is a structural frame component).
The gas tank skidplate does not contact the driveshaft on level ground, but when the rear suspension flexes a lot, it will hit towards the rear of the skidplate and make an awful screeching sound that will make anything that isn't deaf wish it was. Remove the skid plate to do this trimming. Throwing sparks around your gas tank isn't a great idea, and you don't want to cut too deep and nick the tank either. There are four bolts holding the skid plate on that will probably be tight and a pain to get out, but well worth not sitting under the truck with a grinder and gas tank above your face. I took off a little more than an inch for the rear 2/3 of the skid plate and have not had any contact since trimming.

xmember-2.jpg
Bolt the skidplate back into place and then install your new driveshaft with the slip-joint towards the transfer case. Torque the driveshaft-to-flange bolts to 85 ft-lbs. There isn't a great demand for the two-piece shafts, so I'm going to see if I can extend the long section of the old shaft for use as a trail spare. Might work, might not. We'll see..

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

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(a little late in responding - but maybe someone will need this info).

If you mean the carrier bearing on the driveshaft - then you must have a v6 model. I would advise to skip replacing it and instead purchase a 1pc shaft (no carrier bearing). The cb is located near a Hi-Speed CV Joint which make changing the carrier a little difficult.
A new replacement 1pc driveshaft costs about $225.00
The carrier bearing itself may run $40-$140. ( http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/driveshaft-parts/carrier-support-bearings/gm/1993-2002-chevy-camaro-v6-pontiac-firebird-v6-carrier-bearing-new-f-body-carrier-bearing-for-v6-models-pn-s-3r80-40.html ) - for reference...
You could also check a junk yard for a 1pc oem shaft (most shafts there are bent or have bad uj's and will cost $$ to have fixed )
>1994-2002 f-body models all have the same length from the seal of the transmission to the center of the uj @ the diff.
>when looking for an oem 1pc shaft you will find them in Steel and Aluminum. Slight differences in length when measuring center to center of the universal joints ( 40 7/8" - 40 1/2" ) - but the slip yokes vary in length, weighted / non-weighted..etc = this will make it appear the the shafts are different.
>>watch out for oem shafts with the weighted slip yoke from manual 6spd v8 models. This slip yoke may hit the trans/exhaust mount that is used on v6 models.!!

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My carrier bearing is bad in my 96 firebird and I can't find another anywhere. No one has heard of a 2 part driveshaft in my car. Can I replace it with a solid driveshaft? Or do you know where I can find a...


If you mean the carrier bearing on the driveshaft - then you must have a v6 model. I would advise to skip replacing it and instead purchase a 1pc shaft (no carrier bearing). The cb is located near a Hi-Speed CV Joint which make changing the carrier a little difficult.
A new replacement 1pc driveshaft costs about $225.00
The carrier bearing itself may run $40-$140. ( http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/index.php/driveshaft-parts/carrier-support-bearings/gm/1993-2002-chevy-camaro-v6-pontiac-firebird-v6-carrier-bearing-new-f-body-carrier-bearing-for-v6-models-pn-s-3r80-40.html ) - for reference...
You could also check a junk yard for a 1pc oem shaft (most shafts there are bent or have bad uj's and will cost $$ to have fixed )
>1994-2002 f-body models all have the same length from the seal of the transmission to the center of the uj @ the diff.
>when looking for an oem 1pc shaft you will find them in Steel and Aluminum. Slight differences in length when measuring center to center of the universal joints ( 40 7/8" - 40 1/2" ) - but the slip yokes vary in length, weighted / non-weighted..etc = this will make it appear the the shafts are different.
>>watch out for oem shafts with the weighted slip yoke from manual 6spd v8 models. This slip yoke may hit the trans/exhaust mount that is used on v6 models.!!

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I have a Lincoln LS ,so I'm guessing your
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Having once owned a trans repair shop, your
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On a rear drive, such as my LS, you still have to
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The $700 sounds like a dealer fishing for a solution
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On vehicles covered by this information that are equipped with a two-piece rear driveshaft assembly, the center support bearing may be removed for replacement. To be sure if your driveshaft may be serviced, check with your local parts supplier or dealer for parts availability information.
  1. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft assembly. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
  2. Remove the strap retaining the rubber cushion from the bearing support.
  3. Pull the support bracket from the rubber cushion and the cushion from the bearing.
  4. Press the bearing assembly from the halfshaft.

To install:
  1. Assemble the center support bearing to the driveshaft:
    1. If removed, install the inner deflector onto the front shaft half and ***** punch the deflector at 2 opposite points to make sure it is tight on the shaft.
    2. Fill the space between the inner dust shield and bearing with lithium soap grease.
    3. Start the bearing and slinger assembly straight onto the shaft journal. Support the shaft and using a length of pipe over the splined end of the shaft, press the bearing and inner slinger against the shoulder of the front shaft half.
    4. Install the bearing retainer, the rubber cushion onto bearing, the bracket onto the cushion and the retaining strap.

  2. Align and install the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle.

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