Question about 1997 Ford Explorer AWD
I was driving to NC yesterday and I heard a loud noise and then a stench, followed by a flapping sound. My battery light came on and then the check gage light came on. The H and L on the battery gage shot down to L. Continued driving and got home and the serpinetine belt was stripped and the idler pulley was sitting on another part in my car. Car will start, but not 100% sure what the problem is or how much it will cost me. I know the serpinetine belt needs replaced, but did the idler pulley strip off or is there a bolt missing?
You have to have a mechanic look at it. You shouldn't drive it with the belt still on there.
Cut the belt off and get it out of there, make sure the engine's totally cooled off, and charge the battery to full charge.
If you have an electric fan, the engine won't overheat as quickly,but the battery will run down. If you have a belt-driven fan, you can only run 5 minutes to get to a mechanic,or just have it towed is the best.
The pulleys all have to be inspected and cleaned of any debris left by the ruined belt.
If you're gonna start it and drive it for the 5 minute trip,you need to make sure everything is clear in there,nothing rubbing. don-ohio (:^)
Posted on May 10, 2017
When we can not see the product we could not begin to guess what all might be wrong call a repair garage locally and have them check it
Posted on May 10, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Serpentine belt tensioner pulley
Hello, the Tention pully works strangely sometimes. I have a 96 taurus and had trouble myself but the tool you need should be available to rent at autozone or advanced auto for around $25. then you find the socket that fits, and you should be prying counter clockwise. Also you may visit auozone.com for further intructions, but that is what i did. Careful prying in the wrong direction as this could cause your pully spring to weaken, causing further problems.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
The clicking is the Starter Solonoid not getting enough CCAs from the battery to start it.
While running - the alternator should be able to charge the system to 14.4V.
11 volts you are experiencing tells me your alternator is faulty.
Your dash and other items were turning off/on while driving because the voltage probably dipped below 8.4v.
Your vehicle runs off the alternator power once started. The battery is only there to get the engine spinning initially.
A backyard mechanic's way to test the alternator is to start the vehicle - then remove the positive wire on the battery (coming from the alternator).
** If the vehicle stays running - the battery is problematic - probably a dead cell - have it LOAD tested at a local parts shop for free.
** If the vehicle dies shortly after removing the + battery wire - the alternator is failing - and replacement is necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on May 21, 2009
Take the tension off the belt using a long handeled breaker and the appropriate size socket on the center bolt of the tensioner pulley. It will usually move to the left, Use great care in placing the socket so you are positive that it cannot slip. I've been bitten before and it hurts greatly. While the belt is relaxed, which takes some pulling, slide it off any of the top pulleys, just one. Your idler pulley is held in place with one bolt through the center. unbolt it and place the new one in place and tighten it up. After this put your elbow grease to work again on the tensioner and slip the belt back over the pulley you took it from. Before you let the tensioner release make sure the belt is sitting properly in ALL of the pulleys. Actually, when you remove the belt originally it's a good idea to hold it up and away by hooking it anywhere with an old coathanger or a resonabe facimile. Thank, Dana
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
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