I located the starter under the vehicle to the left of the oil filter.
How hard is this component to replace on this model year? Looks like a pretty tight fit and access looks like a real bear from underneath. I know you can access the bolts to remove the starter by taking off the air intake/mass air flow sensor. My concern is access to get the new starter in place from underneath.
Anyone out there have any experience/words of wisdom they can share? I don't want to find myself stuck with the old starter in my driveway and not being able to get the new one in place.
HELLO THIS WOULD BE EASIER TO TAKE IT OUT FROM THE BOTTOM I REMOVED ONE FROM MY MOTHERS CAR AND IS WAS REALLY NOT TO BAD IT WILL TAKE A LITTLE TIME ABOUT 45 MINUTES JUST BE PATIENCE BUT YOU WILL GET IT NOW ONCE YOU HAVE IT LOOSE AND READY TO TAKE OUT YOU WILL HAVE TO MOVE IT AROUND A LITTLE SO IT WILL DROP DOWN YOU WILL HAVE TO WATCH FOR WIRES AND THE WIRE HARNESS NOW PUTTING IT BACK IN JUST MOVE THE STARTER AROUND A LITTLE BIT IN BETWEEN THE WIRE HARNESS AND OR WIRES AND IT WILL GO IN PLACE AND THEN BOLT IT UP
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first of all disconnect the battery , it is easier to get to from under the vehicle so if you jack up and support vehicle it makes it easier to get to . if you were to be standing at the front of the car with the hood open looking in the engine bay it is on the left hand side of the engine , its hard to see looking down as the inlet manifold is in the way of a clear view but from under neigth it can be clearly seen .follow the gear box up to where the bell housing is bolted to the engine and it should be easilly seen as the bolts that attach the starter are usually one 8mm bolt with a 14mm head and the other is a 8mm nut with a split washer making it alittle easier to locate correctly when replacing. disconnect the two power wires that attach to the solinoid (already having disconnected the battery negative terminal from the battery above so there is no chance of shorting out) after the wires have been undone and put aside a 14mm socket and extension is usually the go to remove the retaining bolt and nut. fitting of the starter is the same but in the reverse order. not a hard job on the 4ze1 at all but alittle bit pressed for room to see without going from under neith the vehicle
Remove the plastic cover that covers the nose cone of the starter. Remove the wires from the starter. You may have to remove the oil filter. Remove the two bolts that hold the starter in place. Remove the starter.
Once you get under the vehicle it will all make sense.
You have to raise the vehicle. Depending on the engine type, the starter/solenoid assembly may be mounted above the transaxle, or below the intake manifold. If you don't have any problems, it shouldn't take more than an hour.
See Figure 1 The
starter motor is located on either the lower right hand (passenger) or
left hand (driver) side of the engine, bolted to the transmission
housing with two mounting bolts.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Removal and installation of the starter motor will require access from both the top and bottom of the engine compartment. Fig.
1: Common starter location and installation-the starter is a fairly
heavy component, be careful when lifting it out of the vehicle
Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack, using the proper frame positions.
the vehicle on the frame or transmission crossmember, with jackstands.
Before working under the vehicle, make sure the vehicle is stable on
the jackstands. If it is not, reposition the jackstands so that it is.
Label and disconnect all wiring connectors at the starter.
loosen the two starter mounting bolts until they are loose enough to
take out by hand. Since the starter motor is uncommonly heavy for its
size, it is important to support it well with one hand, while removing
the two mounting bolts with the other hand. If the starter is not
adequately supported, it could fall causing injury. Remove the starter
from the vehicle.
well i dont think you would have to much of a problem with this one. you would have to access it from the bottem of car where you would have more room to work. you said you can access the mounting bolts. wheather from the top or bottem which ever is easier. only other thing is to disconnect the wiring harness. the new one will go in the same way the old one came out and just as easy. it may be a tight fit, but you can wiggle it around and line it up without hurting it. and to anwser your question about the access under the car here is a link with pictures of the under side of the car and starter. hope this info helps, comment back if you have a question. and trust me, its easier than it looks, if you dont mind getting dirty and have the patience :-) http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1763502/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a9da7