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Re: removing rf bearing hub 2005saturn vue fwd
You can go to a parts store that rents tools and rent a hub puller. Also the hub may be cocked and binding up. Push it back on square and try to pull it straight off. Do not try to hammer it off or you will just bind it up worse. You might want to spray some WD 40 on it right where the spindle comed through use a lot and let it soak 15-20 minutes.
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The Saturn Vue should have a bolt-on bearing with integrated wheel hub and ABS. It is held on with 3 bolts.
I assume that you got the wheel, rotor, and brake caliper off. You've removed the 3 bolts thru the knuckle to the bearing. And you have the axle nut off and the axle pushed out or at least lose from the bearing spline.
The bearing can get stuck in the aluminum knuckle pilot diameter. The galvanic corrosion between the bearing and knuckle can lock the bearing into the knuckle pretty tightly. It is not a press fit, it's just stuck. I had one GM bearing that had to be pushed out with a hydraulic press.
Keep soaking with penetrating oil and keep hitting it. Otherwise you'll need to remove the knuckle/bearing from the car and find a press.
remove the bolts and put in a safe place the tap the flange if necessary and remove the axle, careful not to damage the gasket, at this point oil will leaking out so have a catcher ready, instide the hub you will see a nut which is held in place with a tab from the inner locking ring , tap the tab off the nut and remove the outer nut the the locking ring, then remove the inner nut and the outer bearing, now you can remove the hub assembly , careful not to damage the inner seal against the threads on the spindle, good luck, when reassembly before you install the outer bearing its a good idea to fill the hub cavity with oil
All the Ford Escapes (thru 2011) have a Gen1 cartridge type bearing on the front. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is also the same for all Escapes; FWD and AWD, V6 and I4. I'm not sure, but I suspect the Hybrids are the same also.
The Gen1 bearing is difficult to replace yourself unless you have access to a hydraulic press.
The bearing has a press fit into the knuckle and the wheel hub. For most people, I would recommend the dealer or a decent shop.
If you're brave, here are the shorthand steps to replace the bearing:
Remove the wheel/tire.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor. It's a small bolt, be careful.
Remove the axle nut and press the axle shaft out (You should use a special tool for this) Beating it with a hammer is NOT recommended and will damage the axle threads. It's not stuck or rusty, the spline on the axle has a slight Helix that locks it to the hub.
Remove the lower ball joint. Do this first, while the strut and tie rod are still connected, because you might have to really work it over. Remove the cross (pinch) bolt and nut. Pull the ball joint out. If stuck, you may have to open the pinch joint a little with a punch or chisel.
Remove the tie rod nut and the tie rod from the knuckle.
Remove the 2 strut bolts.
I'm pretty sure that the knuckle/hub assembly is now loose, then:
Press the hub out of the bearing. Half of the inner bearing race will be stuck on the hub.
Press that inner race off the hub. Maybe a "bearing splitter" will work.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle. It's OK to press against the inner race; you're going to replace it anyway. (Note: whatever you're doing, don't try to save the bearing. Don't.)
The new bearing can be installed either way; it's symetrical.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only! Do not press across the inner race. You can use the old outer race as a press tool. Do not damage the seal retainer or seal.
Insert the snap ring. Make sure it's fully seated. Check it again.
Press the hub into the bearing. Do NOT press thru the knuckle (and the bearing) as a base. You must support the bearing at the inner race. Using the knuckle will damage the bearing, and you'll be doing this all over in about 500 miles.
The knuckle can be reinstalled on the vehicle in whatever order you want, but I recommend putting some grease on the spline and put it on the axle first and hand start the nut. You can torque the nut later. The axle nut torque is 300Nm (220Ft-lbs).
remove tire remove axel nut (large nut in center of hub)remove brake rotor and caliper turn hub until you can see 3 bolts through round hole in hub turn hob until you remove all 3 bolts. Bolts are in triangel pattern. remove hub and bearing. good luck
They are not too bad if the bearing/hub assy is not frozen into the aluminum steering knuckle.They are held in with 3 13mm bolts from the back side.Remove the front wheel on the side in question,remove the brake caliper,brake bridge,pads,remove the axle nut 36mm(big socket required here)once you have all this removed remove the 3 13mm bolts tha retain the hub/bearing to the steering knuckle by hammering downward on the hub,don't worry if you tear it up come with new one.If you dont see it coming apart after 10-15 blows with a large hammer it maybe siezed up.Then you will need to hit alot hard or heat the knuckle.But be carefull the knuckle is aluminum.hope this helps