WHEN RUNNING THE CAR WILL NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR,THE GEAR LEVER WILL MOVE INTO ANY DRIVING POSITION AS IF SOMETHING IS BLOCKING IT. WHEN ENGINE IS OFF THE GEARBOX WILL ENGAGE ALL GEARS BUT ONCE STARTED AND THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS`DEPRESSED IT WILL NOT DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH COMPLETELY. FLUID LEVELS ARE ALL CORRECT AND HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM HAS BEEN BLED.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: GEARBOX WONT GO INTO GEAR
Hi from uk could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further
How was the hydraulic clutch system bled? These things can be nearly impossible to bleed using conventional "you pump and I'll work the bleed valve" method. Many pro mechanics are not very good at it either. Here's the trick: Get yourself an extra large "turkey baster" sized syringe(no needle) and about a foot of surgical tubing. Open the cap on the master cylinder and FILL IT UP-don't worry about the "full" marks. Go under the car and locate the hydraulic slave cylinder on the side of the trandmission. It will have a brake line running to it and the end of it sits against the clutch release lever. Find the bleed screw on the bottom of it and fit the surgical tubing over the end of it. Fit the other end of the tubing over the end of the syringe. Carefully loosen the bleed screw about 3/4 turn. Pull the plunger back on the syringe and observe the fluid as it fills it. STOP when it is 1/2 full!! Tighten the bleed screw back up, disconnect the tubing and squirt the fluid into the reservoir(will be nearly empty-it only holds about 1/3 cup!). repeat this 2-3 times until NO BUBBLES come into the syringe. Tighten up the bleed screw, replace the cap on the reservoir and that's it- you are done! On many cars, this is the ONLY WAY to get the hydraulic clutch to work properly. Good Luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Your description makes me remember an old Austin Metropolitan I had once. The gear linkage was crude and it was possible sometimes to engage two gears at once resulting in a lock-up and a stalled engine. It never happened while driving at speed.
When repairing a gearbox, once the selector linkage has been removed it is usual to select two gears in order to lock the shafts for the tightening or loosening of a retaining nut. There is built into the internal selector linkage an interlock to prevent two gears being selected.
I imagine that interlock in your gearbox is worn or broken...
You need to be a bit more specific when describing your problem. By "not getting any gears" do you mean (A) the shift lever will not move into position to select a gear?, or (B) shifts into gear position, but does not move? For (A), try reverse (it is not synchronized); Do you get a grinding of gears sound when you try to engage it? If so, this sounds like a problem with the hydraulic clutch release system. If it gets low on fluid, it will not release enough to let you put it in gear. top off the reservoir(tiny 1/2 cup sized one on driver side fender under hood below and to the right of the brake master cylinder) and frantically pump the clutch pedal about 100 times (that\'s right, 100!) If the tranny goes into gear but the vehicle won\'t move, this sounds like either the clutch disc is worn too thin to grab, or something is broken in the driveline. Try locking the hubs and putting it into 4WD and see if it moves then. If so, then the rear wheel driveline or driveshaft has a problem. Good luck! <Splinter, LA, CA 1990 Trooper >352,000 miles>
A clutch that's failing doesn't behaves like that - it slowly starts slipping until it fails completely and definitely. If it would break suddenly (like when the pressure plate would snap) the noise and the vibrations it would generate would be unbearable. No, in your case something is failing inside the transmission/gearbox - most likely in the command forks and their locking pins. The gearbox will have to taken off the car and dismantled to investigate and fix that, and it will be expensive.
Unfortunately the problem will need investigating. There must be a problem with the flywheel / clutch assembly or the gearbox itself. The fact that you can move the gear linkage indicates that there is no drive in the gearbox ( ie not turning). The only items that effect this are the clutch / flywheel assembly or the primary shaft in the gearbox. The gearbox will have to be removed and the above checked.
Doubt it as the fault suggests you need to look into the range sensor. If similar to Renault there is a switch on the gearbox that senses where the select lever is (at the gearbox end). If the display is wrong then the sensor needs looking at and either it will need to be adjusted into a set position by moving it, or perhaps the connector to it or wiring to/from it have a fault.
I assume it's a manual transmission.
If the car will not roll backward or forward in neutral (with or without the clutch engaged) the transmission is most likely locked in two gears at the same time.
This may happen if gear selectors are excessively worn. If you are able to examine the gear selection levers external to the gearbox, ensure they are in the 'neutral' (no gear selected) position when the gear lever is in Neutral. If not in correct position, you may be able to manually reset the levers to correct neutral position and thereby unlock the gearbox.
In any case, if it's happened once, it will happen again, so get the gearbox and gear selection mechanism checked for wear or breakage.
dear friend-your blinker light has nothing to do with your gearbox problem,i surgest you have a look at the hazard switch.regarding you gearbox problem i think we must start at the gear lever.make sure that when you press the button on the shift that it does dis-engage,then while having the shift in hand move the car forward and back wards,try to dis-engage,if not you will have to remove the sump and look at the meganism inside,it has a half moon operating the shaft that is connected to the lock meganism.