WHEN RUNNING THE CAR WILL NOT ENGAGE ANY GEAR,THE GEAR LEVER WILL MOVE INTO ANY DRIVING POSITION AS IF SOMETHING IS BLOCKING IT. WHEN ENGINE IS OFF THE GEARBOX WILL ENGAGE ALL GEARS BUT ONCE STARTED AND THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS`DEPRESSED IT WILL NOT DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH COMPLETELY. FLUID LEVELS ARE ALL CORRECT AND HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM HAS BEEN BLED.
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Re: GEARBOX WONT GO INTO GEAR
Hi from uk could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further
How was the hydraulic clutch system bled? These things can be nearly impossible to bleed using conventional "you pump and I'll work the bleed valve" method. Many pro mechanics are not very good at it either. Here's the trick: Get yourself an extra large "turkey baster" sized syringe(no needle) and about a foot of surgical tubing. Open the cap on the master cylinder and FILL IT UP-don't worry about the "full" marks. Go under the car and locate the hydraulic slave cylinder on the side of the trandmission. It will have a brake line running to it and the end of it sits against the clutch release lever. Find the bleed screw on the bottom of it and fit the surgical tubing over the end of it. Fit the other end of the tubing over the end of the syringe. Carefully loosen the bleed screw about 3/4 turn. Pull the plunger back on the syringe and observe the fluid as it fills it. STOP when it is 1/2 full!! Tighten the bleed screw back up, disconnect the tubing and squirt the fluid into the reservoir(will be nearly empty-it only holds about 1/3 cup!). repeat this 2-3 times until NO BUBBLES come into the syringe. Tighten up the bleed screw, replace the cap on the reservoir and that's it- you are done! On many cars, this is the ONLY WAY to get the hydraulic clutch to work properly. Good Luck!
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When you say the vehicle "won't go into gear," do you mean you cannot move the lever out of PARK, or do you mean that when you move the lever out of PARK the transmission will not engage?
If the lever will not move out of PARK, check your BRAKE LIGHT fuse, your BRAKE LIGHT switch, and the SOLENOID at the shift mechanism.
If your lever moves out of PARK easily (too easily), it is possible that your shift linkage has broken or come loose.
If your lever moves out of PARK normally but the transmission does not engage, it's time to have the car towed to the transmission repair shop.
Your description makes me remember an old Austin Metropolitan I had once. The gear linkage was crude and it was possible sometimes to engage two gears at once resulting in a lock-up and a stalled engine. It never happened while driving at speed.
When repairing a gearbox, once the selector linkage has been removed it is usual to select two gears in order to lock the shafts for the tightening or loosening of a retaining nut. There is built into the internal selector linkage an interlock to prevent two gears being selected.
I imagine that interlock in your gearbox is worn or broken...
You need to be a bit more specific when describing your problem. By "not getting any gears" do you mean (A) the shift lever will not move into position to select a gear?, or (B) shifts into gear position, but does not move? For (A), try reverse (it is not synchronized); Do you get a grinding of gears sound when you try to engage it? If so, this sounds like a problem with the hydraulic clutch release system. If it gets low on fluid, it will not release enough to let you put it in gear. top off the reservoir(tiny 1/2 cup sized one on driver side fender under hood below and to the right of the brake master cylinder) and frantically pump the clutch pedal about 100 times (that\'s right, 100!) If the tranny goes into gear but the vehicle won\'t move, this sounds like either the clutch disc is worn too thin to grab, or something is broken in the driveline. Try locking the hubs and putting it into 4WD and see if it moves then. If so, then the rear wheel driveline or driveshaft has a problem. Good luck! <Splinter, LA, CA 1990 Trooper >352,000 miles>
no 4-3 or 3-2 downshift uncontrolled downshifts outside range of kickdown switch poor acceleration from stopped position parking pawl will not engage selector lever does not engage in r or p engine will not start in p or n position smoke in exhaust (fluid loss) fluid loss between torque converter & primary pump howling noise when changing gears (under full load) howling noise which increases as engine rpm increases 1st gear & reverse too loud 3rd gear too loud rattling noise at 1500 rpm in all positions except r light grinding noise in p & n positions rolling noises when driving in reverse vacuum control circuit Vacuum Control Valve (E300D & S350D) Vacuum Amplifier (E300D & S350D)
A clutch that's failing doesn't behaves like that - it slowly starts slipping until it fails completely and definitely. If it would break suddenly (like when the pressure plate would snap) the noise and the vibrations it would generate would be unbearable. No, in your case something is failing inside the transmission/gearbox - most likely in the command forks and their locking pins. The gearbox will have to taken off the car and dismantled to investigate and fix that, and it will be expensive.
This is normal,
When you add any pressure to the shifter on just about any car you will feel or hear something.
These are the syncro mesh gears thaty engage the shift levers to move to the next set of gears.
It's better not to rest your hand on the lever to avoid premature wear on the syncro gears.
On that car I bet a rebuild costs about 7,000 to repair.
Much cheaper to use an arm rest.