Question about 2000 Ford Taurus

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Loose hinge I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and the screw for the hatch (glass) hinge came off. I believe that the bolt is still inside. How do I put the screw back on?

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Take it to a glass shop and have them look at it cheap fix

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Rear glass & hatch won't open? how do i fix


There is a link which comes loose in rear hatch, the plastic clip get brittle and cracks, allowing the link rod to fall off. You have to release hatch from inside where you remove a few clips and screws to snake a coat hanger to release latch. That is what I had to do on a 2005, which I assume is same mechanism.

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I cannot find the bolts to take out to replace torn signal bulb on 2000 ford taurus


Try getting to it from the inside, it may screw quarter turn or just pop out.

Feb 20, 2011 | 2000 Ford Taurus

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My drivers side window on my 1994 ford Taurus is stuck in the down position. how do i get it to go up and down again? the window motor is working ok. just that the window will not move


If the motor is working but the glass is not moving something must have broke inside the door. See if you can sneak a piece of duct tape down along side the glass, get it down as far as possible. Use a butter knife or something to make the tape stick to the glass, now try pulling the glass up with the tape. You may want run the window motor at the same time maybe it will catch. If you get the window up, tape it with duct tape so you can get it to a shop to get it fixed. Good luck.

Feb 21, 2010 | 1994 Ford Taurus

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Back hatch handle broke off! How do I get the


call dealer they wil know best way to deal somtimes we drill the bolts out of handle to remove and pull up on handle to open hach
if there is still a hinge piece there usa a screw driver in hinge poing to rotate bar assembly

Jan 15, 2010 | 2005 Scion xB

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How to install a rear window regulator on a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue


How do you remove door panels and replace window regulator on an Intrigue? Answer : For a 2002 Intrigue – Front Passenger I didn’t disconnect battery. You use window switch later to align window tabs to regulator frame – with ignition off power locks work, nothing is exposed.
1. Remove visible screw under armrest, pop out finger inset oval panel, remove exposed 2nd screw. 2. Pop off door handle trim – lock button assembly slide thru its hole in door panel. 3. Pop off window switch trim/holder – slide thru its hole in door panel. 4. Remove 2 slot screws under bottom of door.
5. I used a smooth metal letter opener (or old fork) to pry panel from door at each point plastic fasteners insert into metal. Start prying a little, see three on bottom perimeter two inches from edge. Three on door open edge and three on door hinge edge. Slow and easy = whole panel will pop off. A metal compression spring fastener connects at top door hinge edge trim – pry out. Be sure door lock and window switch remain inside. Clean all surfaces of door panel and lay on back seat.
6. With panel off you see clear plastic moisture sheet stuck to door with black rubbery paste - peel it from door for reattachment. You now see mechanism and fastener points. Lay out replacement window regulator and motor on mat by door to help you recognize fastening points, etc.
7. Carefully pull glass all way up and hold in place with two pieces duck tape two feet long with ¼# removal tabovers. Put a foot on outside glass and loop over door frame a foot to inside glass – with room to later redo when you twice lower and raise a foot to access bolts removing/attaching it to regulator bar.
8. Remove 3 bolts holding motor to door. 9. Remove upper 2 bolts and lower 2 bolts holding regulator frame to door.
10. Lower window to expose thru panel cutout area two bolts holding glass tabs to regulator, retape securely. Remove bolts, raise window, retape securely by looping over door frame.
11. Window regulator and motor assembly comes out as unit. Unplug window switch tab to release from motor. BEFORE reassembly clean the inside of the door, put in a little Borax for bugs, etc.
12. Reassemble by starting three motor bolts, fitting regulator assembly in door cavity. Replug window switch, motor can be placed in thru oval slots, leave all bolts loose. Replace two upper and two lower regulator bracket bolts, leave loose.
13. Turn on ignition, use window switch to lower window glass regulator tab bracket until accessible thru panel cutout. Turn off ignition, manually lower glass until tabs align with regulator bracket bolt holes and tighten these bolts. Take tape off, turn on ignition, raise window to top.
14. Tighten three motor bolts and four regulator bracket bolts, make sure alignment is OK. Remove your tape residue - clean goo from both glass sides with Goof Off. THEN raise and lower several times to assure all fits and works like new.
15. Reinstall clear plastic sheet, aligning any fastener holes and rubbing down perimeter with a cloth .
16. Align door panel, assure door lock and window switch are pulled thru. Visually align each tab on door opening side and pop them in one at a time. Continue on bottom – make sure you see them align or they will break. Finish on door hinge side and with metal fastener at top. IF you break a fastener, take one from small bag you bought from Pep boys - otherwise take bag back for refund…
17. Reinstall 2 armrest screws and 2 bottom panel screws, then pop in door lock, trim piece and window switch.
Clean the window inside and out with glass cleaner/polish/raineze so it will slide easily and your done. You can’t do anything about the motors going out. You can avoid regulator tab breaks by making sure the window is raised BEFORE closing those big doors – down is the weak moment!! I work slow and clean as I go, the job took two hours. I highly recommend partsgeek.com – saved a bundle over dealer and they shipped everything in several days – as ordered!

Jul 27, 2009 | 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue

4 Answers

Trunk/hatch will not open. handle seems loose, no action. Wondering if something is broken. How would you repair it. Can't find any other way to open trunk. The glass window part opens.


2000 ford explorer back hatch handle loose door locked The linkage on the back hatch came unfastened and the handle was loose. Ford uses plastic fastener clips over perfectly good threads to hold this together. The outdoor plastic handle is only conected to the car with two aluminum ribets. One was already missing on mine. But if you just want to open the door, you can rip the handle off and pull it out. hopefully you won't crack the plastic. You can see the linkage screw hanging as you look up through the left hole. Grab it with a plyers and apply a steady force down. This will open the hatch. I just rigged up a different handle and put a nut on the treads to hold it together. This can all be done without tearing appart the interier and may only take 20 minutes. I used a rope and handle from the garage opener, a medium size washer and a nut. First make a small loop, with a small hole to slide over the linkage screw, then the washer, then the nut. Slide the other end of rope through the handle, move the handle very close to the vehicle and tie the not close. Trim the rope and wala ... the hatch works. Or you can pay $300.00+ to have it fixed with the clip.

Jun 30, 2009 | 2000 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Stop light bulb replace


Believe it or not, for the Taurus wagon, Ford wants you to take it in to the shop. The Taurus wagon tail light assembly is really a stupid design. I will do my best to describe it here. You must remove the two phillip screws on the tailight assembly, seen when you have the hatch door up. The trick is the assembly is still held with a hinge type, snap in deal that holds the front part of the assembly tight to the body side. You might be able to see or access it from inside the spare tire cover or the access door on the passenger side. Being oh so careful to release the clip so you can pull the assembly free to change the bulb. Hope this is some help.

The tail lamp / break lamp uses bulb number 3157.

May 02, 2009 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 FORD ESCAPE


Climb into the cargo area. The plastic panel is secured by 4 screws accessible only from the bottom edge of the hatch as well as about 10 clips. The object is to get your fingertips between the glass and the panel and pull inward (toward front of vehicle). The clips will pop loose if you pull hard enough. Once you have the panel pulled away, look for a whitish box with a plunger coming out the top of it. Move the plunger with your finger. I believe when locked, the plunger is out, and unlocked, the plunger is in. I believe you will find the solenoid coil has burned out and will need to be replaced. I can't believe Ford was so cheap to not include some sort of mechanical release like Chevy did on the Corvette hatch. I read this solution on another site yesterday and put it to the test tonight on my daughter-in-laws 2001 Escape, so I know it works. I don't think the later years are much different.

Aug 14, 2008 | 2002 Ford Escape

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