Question about 1995 Jaguar XJ6

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Where is the fuse box for the reat brake lights on a jaguar xj6

Our jag will not move out of park and the brake lights will not work we need to find out where the fuse box is

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Try the trunk.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Dec 24, 2008

    This circuit is easy to diagnose with a 12 volt test lamp. However, it is important to know the grouping of circuits and lamps so you'll know how much to check. For example, if the right rear tail lamp and the right license lamp are both inoperative it is important to know that they are on separate circuits. Here's the grouping, and each group it's own fuse and check unit.

    • L/F marker and L/F parklamp

    • R/F marker and R/F parklamp

    • L/R tail lamp and R/license

    • L/R marker and R/R marker

    • R/R tail lamp and L/license

    All of the above EXCEPT L/license and R/tail lamp receive voltage from the same wire at the lighting switch. If all of these lamps are inoperative then you can expect a problem well "upstream". The L/license and R/tail lamp receive voltage from the red/orange wire at the lighting switch.

    So, if one bulb within a group works it is safe to assume the the circuit is operational and the fault is with the bulb, socket, or wiring to that specific bulb. For example, if the right rear tail lamp works OK but the left license lamp does not, then you know that the power supply, fuse and bulb check unit for that group are OK and you can isolate the fault to the license bulb, socket, or wiring. Also remember to check the ground each case easily tracable from the lamp....and ground wires, which are always black. You are looking for clean, tight connections.

    Speaking of connections, these circuits are full of bullet connectors which are prone to loosening and corrosion and are quite often the culprits when a lamp isn't working. If single lamps are acting up and you have known good bulbs, make sure to check, clean, and tighten your connectors. Bulb sockets, too, tend to gather dirt and corrosion. A good elctrical cleaning aerosol can be used or, after pulling the correct fuse, use some WD40 and steel wool....if your fingers are small enough ! In either case follow up with some dielectric grease or a dab of light oil for future protection.

    If both bulbs within a group are inop then you'll want to check the fuse for that group. It is often advised that fuses be summarily replaced as a fuse which appears good may actually be open or intermittant. Of course, you'll check that the contacts for the fuses are clean and secure.

    OK, assuming known good bulbs, good fuses, secure grounds, and clean connectors we'll delve into some easy circuit testing.

    1. Using your 12 volt test light, check the heavy brown wire at the light switch. It should have 12 volts at all time as it is direct battery feed from the left firewall junction post.

    2. With the switch "on", check that the red/slate wire and the red/orange wire have voltage. If no voltage here then there is an internal fault in the switch. If voltage is Ok at these wires.....

    3. Check for voltage at each of the bulb check units where the red/slate wire enters (or red/orange in the case of the L/license and right tail lamp). If voltge does not enter the check units then you have a wiring or connector fault between the switch and the check unit. If voltage is good at this point.....

    4. Check for voltage exiting the check units on the red wires. If no voltage on a red wire then the bulb check unit is "open" and needs replacement. If voltage is exiting the check unit OK, then....

    5. Check for voltage to the fuses, also on red wires. If no voltage to the fuse then you have a wiring fault between the fuse and the check unit. If voltage is good at both sides of the fuse but the lamp still does not operate then you have a wiring or connector fault between the fuse and the lamp.

    Incidentally, you'll notice that each bulb check unit has a white/slate wire. This wire on each unit goes the the bulb failure warning lamp and should have voltage only if a bulb is burned out.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Dec 24, 2008

    Or under the hood... Or passenger side kick panel... or drivers side kick panel. Not too many places to look.

    Owners manual may be a good starting point.



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Automatic trasmission lever is stuck in park position

When this happens, usually it is because of a failure in the gearshift selector switch solenoid.
The gearshift selector solenoid is the switch that unlock the lever from park position when driver turns on the ignition and release brake pedal.
When brake pedal is depressed with selector in park position, this energizes the solenoid, unlocking the shifter.
Teh solenoid is energised by same circuit connecting the brake lights.
When for some reason (a short for example) the brake light fuse that protects the circuit blows, this will result in a failure to energize the solenoid, and lever won't be released from park position.
You find the fuse in the fuse box, on Discovery this is fuse number 1. This is a 15 Amps blue fuse. Fuse is located in the fascia fuse panel.
In most cases you fix the problem by replacing the brake light fuse.

Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.
This means the solenoid itself is faulty and need to be replaced.

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Check brake lights. If brake lights are not working, check and replace fuse number one in the fuse box. This will solve the problem in most cases.

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When fuse is not blowing check the brake light switch. Remove the panel above the brake pedal. There you find several switches, the second from the bottom will be the brake light switch. Unplug the switch connector, put parking brake on, turn on ignition and short the two green wired pins.
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Having your Toyota 4runner stuck in park can be a frightening situation. It may feel like you're stranded and facing an expensive repair bill. You can avoid being stranded by following a few simple steps, and some of the causes of the problem are easy and very cheap to fix. There is an interlock between the brake pedal and the shifter that will prevent the shifter from moving out of park unless the brake pedal is pressed. The failure of this interlock is often caused by something as simple as a fuse.

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Sounds like you need a new brake switch which is located on the brake pedal under the dash. It is what send the signal to the rear brake light module.

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My shifter locks when i've just turned the car on and try to shift from park to drive. It moves to the right a little bit, but will not move down into reverse. Ideas?

There may be a malfunction in the shift interlock sys.
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