Question about 1995 Jaguar XJ6

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Where is the fuse box for the reat brake lights on a jaguar xj6

Our jag will not move out of park and the brake lights will not work we need to find out where the fuse box is

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Try the trunk.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Dec 24, 2008

    This circuit is easy to diagnose with a 12 volt test lamp. However, it is important to know the grouping of circuits and lamps so you'll know how much to check. For example, if the right rear tail lamp and the right license lamp are both inoperative it is important to know that they are on separate circuits. Here's the grouping, and each group it's own fuse and check unit.



    • L/F marker and L/F parklamp


    • R/F marker and R/F parklamp


    • L/R tail lamp and R/license


    • L/R marker and R/R marker


    • R/R tail lamp and L/license


    All of the above EXCEPT L/license and R/tail lamp receive voltage from the same source....red/slate wire at the lighting switch. If all of these lamps are inoperative then you can expect a problem well "upstream". The L/license and R/tail lamp receive voltage from the red/orange wire at the lighting switch.


    So, if one bulb within a group works it is safe to assume the the circuit is operational and the fault is with the bulb, socket, or wiring to that specific bulb. For example, if the right rear tail lamp works OK but the left license lamp does not, then you know that the power supply, fuse and bulb check unit for that group are OK and you can isolate the fault to the license bulb, socket, or wiring. Also remember to check the ground points....in each case easily tracable from the lamp....and ground wires, which are always black. You are looking for clean, tight connections.


    Speaking of connections, these circuits are full of bullet connectors which are prone to loosening and corrosion and are quite often the culprits when a lamp isn't working. If single lamps are acting up and you have known good bulbs, make sure to check, clean, and tighten your connectors. Bulb sockets, too, tend to gather dirt and corrosion. A good elctrical cleaning aerosol can be used or, after pulling the correct fuse, use some WD40 and steel wool....if your fingers are small enough ! In either case follow up with some dielectric grease or a dab of light oil for future protection.


    If both bulbs within a group are inop then you'll want to check the fuse for that group. It is often advised that fuses be summarily replaced as a fuse which appears good may actually be open or intermittant. Of course, you'll check that the contacts for the fuses are clean and secure.


    OK, assuming known good bulbs, good fuses, secure grounds, and clean connectors we'll delve into some easy circuit testing.



    1. Using your 12 volt test light, check the heavy brown wire at the light switch. It should have 12 volts at all time as it is direct battery feed from the left firewall junction post.


    2. With the switch "on", check that the red/slate wire and the red/orange wire have voltage. If no voltage here then there is an internal fault in the switch. If voltage is Ok at these wires.....


    3. Check for voltage at each of the bulb check units where the red/slate wire enters (or red/orange in the case of the L/license and right tail lamp). If voltge does not enter the check units then you have a wiring or connector fault between the switch and the check unit. If voltage is good at this point.....


    4. Check for voltage exiting the check units on the red wires. If no voltage on a red wire then the bulb check unit is "open" and needs replacement. If voltage is exiting the check unit OK, then....


    5. Check for voltage to the fuses, also on red wires. If no voltage to the fuse then you have a wiring fault between the fuse and the check unit. If voltage is good at both sides of the fuse but the lamp still does not operate then you have a wiring or connector fault between the fuse and the lamp.


    Incidentally, you'll notice that each bulb check unit has a white/slate wire. This wire on each unit goes the the bulb failure warning lamp and should have voltage only if a bulb is burned out.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Dec 24, 2008

    Or under the hood... Or passenger side kick panel... or drivers side kick panel. Not too many places to look.

    Owners manual may be a good starting point.

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Automatic trasmission lever is stuck in park position


When this happens, usually it is because of a failure in the gearshift selector switch solenoid.
The gearshift selector solenoid is the switch that unlock the lever from park position when driver turns on the ignition and release brake pedal.
When brake pedal is depressed with selector in park position, this energizes the solenoid, unlocking the shifter.
Teh solenoid is energised by same circuit connecting the brake lights.
When for some reason (a short for example) the brake light fuse that protects the circuit blows, this will result in a failure to energize the solenoid, and lever won't be released from park position.
You find the fuse in the fuse box, on Discovery this is fuse number 1. This is a 15 Amps blue fuse. Fuse is located in the fascia fuse panel.
In most cases you fix the problem by replacing the brake light fuse.

Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.
This means the solenoid itself is faulty and need to be replaced.

How to proceed:

Check brake lights. If brake lights are not working, check and replace fuse number one in the fuse box. This will solve the problem in most cases.

If fuse keeps blowing there must be a short in the brake lights wiring.
You will need to access the rear light access panels and unplug the wiring harnesses that connects to the tail light assemblies.
Replace the fuse and try again to start the car, with all tail lights harnesses disconnected. If it starts drive the vehicle to the nearest mechanic, the vehicle will not be safe without tail and brake lights.

When fuse is not blowing check the brake light switch. Remove the panel above the brake pedal. There you find several switches, the second from the bottom will be the brake light switch. Unplug the switch connector, put parking brake on, turn on ignition and short the two green wired pins.
You should hear a click, while shorting the contacts move the shifter out of park position

When brake light are working fine, and lever stays on park position, it is usually the solenoid or its connections that are faulty. Try connecting directly the solenoid to power. The solenoid is connected to red and black wires. Apply 12 Volts across the wires, following polarity. If this worked the solenoid will click, and you will be able to move the gear out of parkposition. When there is no click you need to replace the faulty solenoid that is located in the shifter assembly.

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No rear running lights. Turn and brake lights work. what do I do


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There is a 10amp fuse for each rear parking lamp. The fuses are in the rear fuse box. Your owner's manual will tell you where that fuse box is located.
The fuses get power from a park lamp relay.

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1 Answer

Shifter wont go all the way into park , can't get the key out. is this electcal or mechanical


Having your Toyota 4runner stuck in park can be a frightening situation. It may feel like you're stranded and facing an expensive repair bill. You can avoid being stranded by following a few simple steps, and some of the causes of the problem are easy and very cheap to fix. There is an interlock between the brake pedal and the shifter that will prevent the shifter from moving out of park unless the brake pedal is pressed. The failure of this interlock is often caused by something as simple as a fuse.

    • 1 Locate the fuse box on the vehicle. The location varies with the year and model of 4runner you're driving. Use the owners manual to find yours. A common location on 4runners is under the dashboard in the front seat. There is usually a second box under the hood, close to the battery.
    • 2 Open the fuse box and use the diagram underneath to find the three common causes of interlock failure. Examine the fuse for the head lights, the brake lights and the dashboard lights. Their position will vary depending on the year of the 4runner you are working on, but there is a diagram on the back of the fuse box cover that will help guide you. There is also likely to be a diagram in the owners manual; look in the index under fuses.
    • 3 Replace any blown fuses. You can tell a blown fuse by holding it to the light and seeing whether the filament is attached at both ends. Sometimes you will need to replace the fuse with one you know is not blown, such as a recently purchased one, before you can tell.
    • 4 Turn the engine on, press the brake and try to move the transmission from park. If it still does not work or you do not have the ability to check the fuses, open the flap labeled "shift lock override." In some models the label may have worn off, so look for a small flap somewhere close to the transmission. Press the button under the flap, press the brake and move the transmission from park. You may need to use a screwdriver or ballpoint pen to reach the button because it can be buried.

Sep 23, 2011 | 1993 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

My brake lights arnt working


Sounds like you need a new brake switch which is located on the brake pedal under the dash. It is what send the signal to the rear brake light module.

You can pick one up at any jag dealer.

Good Luck!

Nov 30, 2010 | 1995 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

My jag shows trunk ajar light on but my trunk is closed properly? I also have 2 faults that say..Apply park brake and park brake fault?


its the senser switches =loose,not contacting thetrunk lid the wire to them loose adrift,fuse gone

Jul 06, 2010 | 2004 Jaguar S Type

2 Answers

My shifter locks when i've just turned the car on and try to shift from park to drive. It moves to the right a little bit, but will not move down into reverse. Ideas?


There may be a malfunction in the shift interlock sys.
This sys. keeps the shift from being moved from park
unless the brake peddle is depressed. There are 5 fuse's, directly or indirectly related to the interlock system. Fuse #6 15amp in the fuse box under the hood on the left side. The next 4 are in the fuse box
behind the left side of the dash. Fuse #3 15amp/fuse
#18 15amp/fuse #16 20amp and fuse #4 15amp.
Check these first, before you move on to the brake
light switch, under the dash at the brake peddle.
And the shift lock solenoid, under the console left of
the shift lever. Hope this helps.

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Car won't shift out of park while turned on


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