First look under the hood (drivers side) at the master cylinder. Make sure everything looks dry in that area, especially where the master cylinder bolts to the power brake booster. If it looks dry there, and you know you haven't spilled fluid in that area for the life of the vehicle. Then look under the dash-board (drivers side also) to see if there's any indication of wetness near the brake pedal push-rod (the push-rod is located all the way up the brake pedal's 'steal lever', towards the top) - look where the push-rod comes through the firewall. If it's wet there, or under the hood near the "Master Cylinder" then it's a bad/leaky Master Cylinder. If everything checks ok in that area you are going to have to check the insides of all of the wheels for any signs of leakage near the brake calipers (in the front wheels) and brake "wheel cylinder's" for the rear wheels, unless the vehicle has 4wheel disc brakes; therefore you will also check the calipers in the rear wheels. The only other thing that come's-to-mind is the "proportioning valve" which was common to leak on the S-10's from my experience in the past... Other then that, the only other thing left from what I have mentioned thus far, is broken or cracked brake lines anywhere in the system.
Thank you so much, I found the leak was on a brake line. I appears someone before me tried to repair a leak with rubber. Any ways, got the new line (flex line) to bottles of break fluid, now It is time for the dirty job. It has drums in the rear so I will bleed both. The furthest to the closest. Correct. I hope that is enough fluid.
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SOURCE: Brake pedal goes all the way to the floor!
I have changed brake pads before and did not lose any fluid but air can get in the lines. Brake fluid is not compressible while air is, so if you get air in your lines it compresses when you hit the pedal there fore the pedal goes down to floor and your brakes dont grab that good. You can either bleed the brakes your self by starting at the wheel furthest away from the brake fluid reservoir and unscrewing bleeder hose and letting the fluid just bleed out. (get something to catch it and dispose of it properly). Make sure you keep the reservoir under your hood full of brake fluid while letting the other stuff by tires bleed out. Work your way from the furthest tire first and the closest one to the reservoir last. GOODLUCK!
SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-
Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.
SOURCE: parking brake pedal goes to floor
The disc brake pads are NOT used for the parking brake. The parking brake uses mini-drum type shoes inside the rear disc rotor.
Take a look at http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_emergency_brake_pads_on_a_2000_Chevy_1500_Silverado_Pickup
For more info
SOURCE: My third brake light dosen't work on my chevy s10 94'
I had a similar problem with my 1994 S-10 LS extended cab. Both tail brake lights worked fine. I removed the 3rd brake light cover and tested for voltage at the steel center of the two rivets and found the positive (driver side) negative (passenger side) were good. I checked the two metal strips that send power to bulbs and found the positive side was open. Seems the flared side of the rivet was not making contact with the metal strip. I bucked the rivet with a punch and hammer and it took care of the problem.
SOURCE: Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale
do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.
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