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Re: Please Help Me ASAP!!!
Hi my name is Allen!
Note: make sure to the RED cable on the + post you can see this plus sign right next to the battery post sticking out of the battery. Next the black cable goes on the - post you can see this - negative sign next to the post as well.
Question: the wire that is loose, is it tape onto the RED cable or the BLACK cable. If it is taped to one of the cables and has a round loop on the end of it, then it mounts to which ever cable it is taped too. What you need to do is take of the nut that tightens the cable to the post and slide the loop over the stud and put the nut back on and tighten it, make sure both cables are tight on the post.
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If you are trying to remove a stud (a screwed bolt fixed into a metal block) try using 2 nuts. Screw them on and tighten them against each other with 2 spanners. Once tight, unscrew the lower nut. The top nut will stop it moving up the stud and should start turning the stud. An alternative way is to spot weld (tack) a nut onto the stud. Either way turns the stud into a kind of standard bolt.
OKAY LOOKING AT OIL PAN FACING SHALLOW END LEFT SIDE STUDS BOLTS SEQUENCE 13 12 11 10 9 BACK BOLTS 8 7 6 5 OKAY 5 BOLTS WILL BE ONE OF THE RIGHT SIDE STUDS STARTING AT 5 BACK STUD THEN BOLT 4 3 2 1 AND FRONT BOLTS ON FRONT OF PAN AFTER 1 BOLT 15 AND BOLT 14. SEE FRONT BOLTS ON FRONT END OF OIL PAN 14 15 AND 1. WRITE NUMBERS DOWN IN THE SEQUENCE I GAVE YOU ON PAPER. DRAW OIL PAN ROUGH DRAFT PUT THE NUMBERS I GAVE YOU I SAME SEQUENCE THATS YOUR OIL PAN BOLTS SEQUENCE.
This is what i did.
took off all the brackets i could see connected to both heads.
once the alternator and ps pump are out of your way but not disconnected sorta resting to the side,
Make sure battery is not connected. lol
once you have everything peeled off the block,.
Then you can start with the (uim)upper
intake manifold. 6 bolts 2 studded 4 aren't.
and 2 bolts holding the throttle and transmission linkage.
Pull the (UIM) and you will see the the intake manifold(IM)
Theres like 12 bolts one is studded.
take em off and carefully pry the (IM) off the Block.
then take your valve cover bolts sud be 5 of them
3 are studded and lay near the plugs.
Once your at this point you will see your 10 rods i think
held down by about 5 bolts each side..now get a cardboard box and
punch small holes in them and place the rods you remove in the same order you take them out so you can put them back in exactly.
Now a lil tricky is the exhaust manifold get a pry bar ready take your plugs out and undo the exhaust manifold bolts out 6 of them.
if you must. id spray liquid wrench on them a day or two in advance.
I had no problem removing any my bolts no breaks.
But i did take time to let LW to soak in over night.
once bolts are out. you need to pry back the exhaust manifold a lil to remove the head on each end.
thats If you dont decide to take the whole exhaust manifold out.
Once heads are off and out. take em to your local machinist
test them for cracks and warps.
Then buy the headgasket kit and bolts runs about 150. you can not reuse the head bolts they are stretching type.
some rtv and torquing . put her together and your good to go.
Now thing i left out.
Yes the full injectors are held in by a t10 torxs i think.
pull em all out at once 6 of them.keep them attached and dont disconnect the gas line.
put it to the side.
then the coolant hose came off with no fluid in it. the hoses i took off the engine did not contain fluids.
This is where i got my torque specs.
Tools i used are mainly 13 mm short and deep socket
15 mm short and deep socket.
and a 10 mm.
and random other tools that help you reach and angle.
Hope this helps.
And good luck.
Ps b4 you take her apart can you take images from under the hood. I do have a bracket which im trying to find out it went. for now its coat hanging ;)
loosen the battery cable.... start the car with a boost.... after it is running... unhook the battery.... if it dies... replace the alternator... if it keeps running... replace the battery.... make sure this is done outside and everyone working on the car is wearing safety glasses
-disconnect neg batt cable from battery
-disconnect wiring from starter motor solenoid
-remove mounting bolts with socket wrench and proper size socket (metric)
-mount new starter and re-attatch mounting bolts
-re-attatch wiring to starter solenoid
-reconnect neg batt cable to battery
-it is helpful to label the wiring connected to the starter solenoid before you remove them which can be done with tape wrapped around each wire and marked with a pen. this will help ensure wires are connected to the right terminal when you install new starter. also when you have detatched the starter, compare it to your new one to see if wiring configuration is the same. if it is different, it maybe to your advantage to call the auto parts store/salvage yard where you purchased the new/reman. starter and verify with the parts person that the starter they sold you is the right one for your truck. more than once the part i bought was the wrong one because the parts person entered wrong information into their computer. you can eliminate this hassle by telling them as much info about your truck as possible.
There should be two long silver colored bolts sticking up from the headlight from behind the grill when you open the hood. They should have small heads, about 7 or 5.5 mm. Remove these bolts(studs) and the headlight lens will pull out the front.
you can replace the stud by hitting it out with a hammer and punch. by a new stud and nut. put the new stud through the hole to pull it through put the lug nut on backwords and tightening it down until it seats completely.
There is a second bolt that has to come off it is usually 180 degrees across from the 14 mm bolt. Once this is removed take off and disconnect any wire harnesses that are attatched to the starter. When you put the new one on be sure to disconnect the battery neg. pole first so you don'y blow the starter.