Grinding noise right after starting when car is either in Park or in Neutral. much less noise while on Drive or reverse; car moves forward or backward ok. It just developed this grinding noise last night and has been stared the car only twice for 8-10 seconds each time. Car was towed to repair center where they mentioned probable trouble with ignition switch getting stucked, possible starter problem and potential trouble with flywheel (?).
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Re: problem with ignition switch, starter, flywheel
That sounds correct what happens is the starter still tries to engage the flywheel and grinds the teeth off both. Replace switch then worry about starter flywheel if it starts fine don't worry about it you may have saved it if you didn't let it run that way long
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I don't know year--make--model? Use a digital multimeter across battery post, everything off. The generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts. Generic info says if it gets down to 12.4 volts or less, get it charged. Check your charging system. Check flywheel teeth and starter drive gear, see if looks ok.
You can do voltage drop test for starter motor circuits. If you try that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. You may be way ahead of me with your testing? Just my opinion.
You could possibly have a bad park neutral safety switch , power ( voltage ) from ignition goes thru the park neutral safety switch to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . Does your vehicle have automatic or manual transmission ? And you should have voltage drop testing on the starter circuit done . Starter Voltage Drop You could have a bad battery cable .
I had the same problem. It's the ignition cylinder where you put your key in. The switch for the start position is shorting out, in some cases when you move from park to reverse and then through neutral to drive the starter will engage and grind on the flywheel while the engine is running. I would deem this an urgent problem and the repair should be around $60-$120 depending on the shop you go to.
ignition switch, in steering column, check all fuses ! does starter have a new solonoid ? it should. can't do one and not the other. although stranger things have happened. check all wire connections, tight enough ? right location, are battery terminals tight, a parts store clerk forgot to tighten them on , this happened to my daughter. Is it all the way in park, or neutral, the gear shift lever ? starter or solonoid faulty ! starter motor pinion jammed into flywheel !
There is no "Relay" per say, other then the solenoid on the starter it's self. The 4 components in the Starting circuit are the ignition switch, the transaxle position switch, the solenoid and the starter motor.
The ignition switch acts as a relay for power to the solenoid.
The transaxle position switch acts like another relay in that it will not allow the starter to turn if the car is not in neutral or park.
The Solenoid acts as a relay to the starter motor's power supply, and engages the starter's gear into the flywheel of the engine.
So what it only does it in park or neutral ! The vehicle starting circuit is only suppose to let it start in park or neutal . Park neutral safety switch won't allow B+ voltage to S terminal on the starter solenoid unless the vehicle is in park or neutral . It's probably the starter relay contacts stuck closed . You really should learn how it works before guessing as to the problem . Plus learn automotive electrical testing ! The ignition switch when turned to the start position send's a voltage signal to the PCM - engine computer .The PCM will energize the starter relay to crank the engine . PCM / ABS 10amp fuse in the I/P fuse box supply's B+ voltage to the park / neutral safety switch . When in park or neutral the B+ voltage goes through the control side of the relay to the PCM which will supply a ground to energize the starter relay .
Sounds like it may be related to the 'neutral safety switch'. When you turn the key to start the engine, current goes from the ignition switch through the neutral safety switch to the starter relay, then on to the starter. Some cars have a shift linkage adjustment to make sure the trans is fully into park; mal-adjustment could cause what you describe. Anyway, start diagnosis at neutral switch and proceed to starter relay. Don't forget to check starter power feed wiring for loose/corroded connections. I've seen many cars exhibit this condition after being driven in heavy rain, etc., and in most cases, the battery wire on the starter, or the ignition trigger connection had become corroded enough that contact was lost, sometimes intermittently. It is important when checking these to actually disconnect these wires and look for corrosion, etc. especially the spade terminal for the trigger wire(be sure to disconnect battery before using tools on the starter battery wire)