Question about 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Front Axle heavy knock on every rotation in 4 wheel under heavy load. Does not knock when in 2 wheel nor when 4 wheel engaged under light(very light) load. If I gun it, or under heavy load going straight I hear and feel a heavy bang on each rotation and I cannot tell which side it is coming from in the front axle. I have removed the Vacuum Shift Motor, and Differential Cover without seeing any obvious problems. Shift motor works fine, nothing bent, broken, or worn out. The only thing I have seen is the intermediate shaft(passenger side) slides toward the center of the diff until it hits the center pin holding the spider gears. I do not know if this is normal.
That is not normal
there is a problem in the drive shaft by sliding so fa into the diff the cv joint"U" joint is no longer directly in line with the kingpin and is binding up as the steering direction is varied
the center line of the joint has to remain directly inline with the turning point ( king pin, strut ) so that as the axle is turning and the steering is turned the joint is in the same plane
check why the axle is allowed to move in and out and you will have your problem solved
Posted on Mar 31, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
they have two lines from the axle they run along the front of the crossmember above the skid plate to the top of the transfer case on the drivers side
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
It's not easy to put them back, but if you get the side gears in position with the axles bumped out as far as you can, the smaller spider gears can be "walked" into place. Try having your buddy rotate one of the wheels slowly until each one fits in. It's tricky but you'll get it.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
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