ABS fuse in 94 Range Rover

SOURCE: Can I (safely) disable my 1999 Range Rover 4.6 ABS

I have a 1998 Range Rover HSE. The ABS, TC amd Brake light stay on and now I have noticed that it is becoming harder and harder to stop. It literally feels like I dont have any brakes at all. I have to pretty much push the brake petal all the eay down in order to get it to stop. I had the pads and rotors about 6 months ago and I don't know what to do! Help please

SOURCE: Battery goes flat after 5

i had a simular problem myself...... it turned out to be a bad battery connection, hence it kept sparking and ran flat within days. make sure the terminals are good and tight!!

SOURCE: Range Rover 1990 abs pump

Ok, your light WILL go out, and go back to normal once repaired, so don't fret.

Unless the pump was really loud (bad internals), you likely burned up the pressure switch (green thing on end of pump), which can be purchased in LA, USA; or through me, GreenDog Oregon (store name on Ebay US). These go out due to the pump running for an extended peroid of time, overheating the entire assembly, and allowing moisture into the pressure switch (Yes, they do go bad, and I have pictures of the inside of a bad one, full of brown muck). The reason this happens is bacause the nitrogen charge in the ABS accumulator (ball like canister attached to pump) has a limited life-span, and goes bad after about 7 years (Rave 2003). This means that the pump must run more often to accomidate braking, as it has no assist.

So, you can replace the Accumulator, and the pressure switch, and will likely be back in commission, after a proper bleeding, of course (directions for proper bleeding in Rave 2003 -CD available on ebay for appx $5)

Or, you could just replace the entire assy with a nkown good used part, and since the switch on the used part will likely be good, you can then just replace the ABS accumulator. The pressure switch is very hard to find, but I do have a couple of sources, here on the West Coast.

If you need further assistance or need a pressure switch (or parts), contact me through my ebay store, GreenDog Oregon. If you have trouble finding my store, just look for P38 and Classic parts, I'll be near the top of the store listings, as my prices are low, due to the low cost of rovers in the NW.

SOURCE: Fuel pump relay switch and shut off location

There is a safety switch that can be reset under the hood on the passenger side under the fuse box panel.

SOURCE: what is the procedure for oil change on 2009 range

Hi,

Never change your oil while the engine is hot! Let it cool for a few hours, oil can burn you badly.

Be sure you have a safe area to do your oil change. Level, solid ground is a must so that you can safely jack up your car. I also like to put something on the driveway or garage floor underneath the engine in case you spill. Cardboard or a piece of plywood are great for this.
Before you even start to do your oil change, be sure you have everything you need to get the job done.

What You'll Need

• Ratchet or open end wrench
• Oil filter wrench
• Oil catch/recycle container
• Funnel
• New oil filter
• New Oil
• Clean rag

The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan.

Before you remove the oil drain plug, be sure that your recycling container is positioned underneath the oil drain. An oil change can be no fun if most of your time is spent cleaning up oil. When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck.
Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.)
Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil -- most full service gas stations accept it.

Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess. Some oil filters can be reached from the top, but for most you'll have to be under the car.

With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it. Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil. Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on.

Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise. You don't need a wrench to install the new oil filter. Screw it on as tight as you can get it with one hand. Overtightening the oil filter can strip its threads and cause a leak. Of course, not tightening it enough can cause a leak. So screw it on as tight as it will go with one hand, but no more.

Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too. Check your owner's manual to find out how much oil your engine holds. Pour a little more than 3/4 that amount into the engine. For example, if your car holds 4 quarts of oil, add 3 1/2.
If you're using a 5-quart container of oil, there is a guide on the side that shows how much oil you've put in.
You're not finished yet so don't drive off.

We didn't add all the oil because there may still be a little oil here and there we didn't account for. Check your oil and add more until you're at the right level.
Be sure to put your oil cap back on! Oil spray can cause a fire.

Best regards.