Dash board light wont go on because factory stereo got removed
I removed all factory stereo without me knowing that i was going to damaged the cruise control, and the dash board lights. so now when i drive i dont have any dash board lights or cruise control now i found that when i left the lights on the buzzer does not remind me that i left the head light on.can some one help me out there it will be appreciated...
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Re: dash board light wont go on because factory stereo...
The cruise control has an ECU(electrocic control unit) which enables the car to keep moving considering the load and speed and slops too...so i don't think it should get disturbed by the stereo..
but anyway if it was doing so then you did gud.
while your buzzer doesn't work then get the electrical circuits checked and also check if while taking out stereo the sockets were loosened.. :)
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ALARM, CRUISE CONTROL, and STEREO Wiring Color Codes for 1993 Honda Civic
This FixYa Tip is for the purpose of installing an Alarm, Remote Starter, Cruise Control, and / or Car Stereo into the vehicle listed in the subject line.
The wires listed are the ones you will need to successfully complete the task.
Some vehicles require additional relays and / or modules to bypass factory security. If they are required - it will be in the NOTES section below the wiring colors.
The following FixYa TIP is good for all Honda Civics for the following production years:
STEREO WIRING COLOR CHART:
Constant 12V+: White/Blue Switched 12V+: Yellow/Red Ground: Black Illumination: Red/Black Dimmer: n/a Antenna: Driver's Pillar
Front Speakers: Left Front (+) Blue/Green Left Front (-) Gray/Black Right Front (+) Red/Green Right Front (-) Brown/Black
Rear Speakers: Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow Left Rear (-) Gray/White Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow Right Rear (-) Brown/White
NOTES: - none -
Metra Brand Dash Kit: n/a Metra Brand Wiring Harness: 70-1720 Metra Brand Antenna Adapter: n/a
ALARM / REMOTE START WIRING CHART:
Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness Starter: Black/White - Ignition Switch Harness Ignition: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness Accessory: Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness Tach: Blue - Distributor Brake Switch: Green/White - Brake Switch Trunk Pin: Green/Black - (-) Above Fuse Panel (Blue Connector) Parking Lights: Red/Black - (+) Above Fus Panel (White Connector) Head Lamp: Red/White - Steering Column Hood Pin: n/a Factory Disarm: Disarms with Unlock Door Trigger: Green/Red - (-) Driver's Running board Door Lock: Green/White - (-) Driver's Door at Door Lock Module Door Unlock: Green/Red - (-) Driver's Door at Door Lock Module Horn: Blue/Red - Steering Column (Relay Required) Windows UP: LF=Red/Blue RF=Orange/White
NOTES: - none -
Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake Switched 12V+: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness Ground: Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module Hot Side of Brake: n/a - Brake Switch Cold Side of Brake: Green/White - Brake Switch Tach: Blue - Distributor VSS Wire : Yellow/Blue - Driver's Side Dash Footwell, Grey connector.
Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch. Some vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/adapters not listed above. Rostra® Cruise Control module switch settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and a pick up coil.
Thanks for using FixYa!! Please see my other tips on GPS, Car Audio, Large Appliances, and more.
You can not do what your doing on todays
high tech vehicles.
The computer knows what radio was installed at the factory,
so if it stolen ,it can not be used,nor can you
install an aftermarket ,without a lot of system knowledge.
A Car Audio Store may have done a conversion,
but on an LS,I wouldn't bet on it.
Did you use the factory ground when you installed the stereo? If you did thats your problem, the factory grounds on dodges act really weird, ground your stereo directly to the chassis (metal dash support under the dash) your problem will likely go away.
havent a clue without looking at it but this is one of them things best left alone as i have had similar before where it runs through radio,including the alarm and the factory immobiliser cut in.just loop from another circuit to make the lights work
Most factory stereos are wired to the dash dimmer switch. Usually if the dash lights go out after an after market stereo installation, it is because the wire that originally went to the factory stereo is not used for after market stereos. Double check the fuses and ensure the wire that controlled the lights on the factory stereo is not grounding out on something.