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Jack the vehicle up at proper jack points and lower onto jack stand or stands.remove drivers side wheel. Use needle node pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cotter pin in the axel nut and determine the size of the axel nut. It will most likely be metric 28mm to 36mm. Use an impact to remove the axel nut. Now you will need to remove one or both of the ball joints. Start with the bottom one first and hold the axel in place and pull out on the hub. After you have the hub off of the axel note the splines and how the line up. Now turn the hub so that it is out of the way. You may be able to just yank the axel out of the transmission. If it didn't come out easily you will need a crow bar to gently pry the axel out of the case. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the transmission case. It's aluminum and it will crack and break if you beat on it. Just pry gently and with the transmission in neutral ( be sure to chalk the rear wheels so the car won't run you over) slowly rotate the axel and pry until it comes out. If that doesn't work you will need to rent a slide hammer. Thread it to the free end of the axel and forcefully slide the weight out to knock the axel about of the trans. Installation is reverse. DO NOT USE A HAMMER to force the axel back in you will mushroom the threads and never get the nut on.
Are there bolts on the outer hubs. If so removing the axel hub bolts will allow you to pull the axles. You should be able to remove the lock nut, lock washer and adjusting nut (second nut) to remove rear brake hubs and drums. The C-Clips are only used on the half ton and lighter cars. This is called floating axels.
Its important to replace the hub seals on the inside of the drums. A small amount of axel greese will make your brakes not work properly.
if u have u joints there should not any fluid near your bearing other than grease... if it is leaking anything other than that it is probably brake fluid... i would suggest checking your brake cylinder and brake line leading along side the passenger side
You do not need to remove the housing, and no need to drain the fluid unless you want to change it. You will need a pry bar to get the inner joint unhooked from the trans. If you notice on the new shaft there is a little circlip near the end of the shaft that goes into the trans, this is the part that locks the shaft into the trans. If it will not come out that way, you can pull the joint out of the inner housing, clamp a set of vise grips on the joint housing an smack with a hammer.