The clutch is new and the pressure plate is also new. I've having this problem since the vehicle have 40,000 miles(new). The vehicle is a 1989 Isuzu Amigo 2.6L(4X4) . There is no oil on the clutch or pressure plate. I have this car since 1992. The problem is, this is the fourth time the vehicle have this problem. The vehicle have been properly maintained and is in perfect conditions.What I am thinking is that the flywheel is the problem even though it have been set for correction to a machine shop. Also the hydraulic cylinders of the clutch have been replaced. Also there is no air on the hydraulic system it have been properly bleed ed. The problem occurs when the car is in a traffic jam after a while the clutch start slipping when shifting gears.
My cousin has a 93 2.6L 2 wheel drive Amigo. She was driving u a hill when the clutch started slipping, she had only purchased/started driving the vehicle 6 months before the clutch Slipping occured. I took the Trans out, resurfaced the flywheel, installed a new pilot bearing in the crankshaft, installed a new non factory pressure plate, clutch disc and throw out bearing. I put the trans back in aaand it continued to slip in the exact same way : / . Took trans out a second time, replaced resurfaced flywheel with brand new flywheel, adjusted the clutch pedal to 6.71-7.13 inches from the floor to ensure that the return hole in the clutch master cylinder was not blocked by inner piston. Put everything back together and it STILL! friken slipped like crazy, vehicle wouldn't accelerate quickly and it could not travel faster then 50mph in any gear.
I've read all over the internet and I even talked to the Isuzu dealership shop foreman who said that once the clutch pedal is adjusted correctly the throwout bearing fork/clutch slave should be able to be pushed back/into itself with just a thumb or by hand, if you can't press it back with just a hand then the pedal is misadjusted. He also mentioned that many models have the throw out bearing constantly touching the clutch pressure plate, this is normal on the amigo if its a light ,only just making contact pressure. However if you have a mis-adjusted pedal possibly what could occur is that heat will expand the fluid in the line and will force the pressure into the clutch slave cylinder and press on the clutch as if you were slightly pressing on the pedal and the clutch would begin to slip.
it's my process of elimination hypothesis that . . . either the flywheel's outer diameter raised surface should be machined down some to cause the pressure plate to bolt down lower, causing the pressure plate , pressure surface to push farther up into itself when it makes contact with the clutch disc to give it more spring pressure. OR the clutch disc needs to be thicker causing the same thing oor the pressure plate is weak and needs to be replaced w a more performance brand higher pressure version of a stock pressure plate. Those are the last 3 possible causes of clutch grip failure aka clutch slip.
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I suspect that the full engagement of the clutch pressure plate is not being achieved
if a pressure plate is held at reduced application pressure , it will continuously slip marginally and this build up to a point where the clutch plate will not absorb any more heat and so it fades and slips completely ( same affect as brake fade from worn pads and too heavy brake application -like long down hill runs )
the area I would check is the clutch master cylinder as it appears that the compensating port is blocked , and holding pressure in the clutch line which with increasing heat from the clutch builds up more pressure and compounds the pressure plate problem
this is identical to a heavy truck clutch problem where full testing produced no problems , yet at 100 miles and on a range the clutch failed completely but when cooled down again tested as good
on replacing the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate it was revealed by a clutch specialist shop that the pressure springs were actually weaker that specifications and were in fact allowing the clutch top slip and so go into the fade situation
Hi Timothy, The clutch plate is fitted between the gearbox and the engine. Adjustment is carried out by lengthening or shortening the push rod. Some manufactures have adjustments between the slave cylinder and the clutch folk (underneath the vehicle) while others have adjustments between the top of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder, and others require replacement of the rod with shorter or longer, depending if the clutch is engaging to low or too high. If the clutch is slipping it will probably be too late for adjustment and require replacement of the clutch plate and possibly the clutch cover (pressure plate) and maybe the thrust bearing, Regards John
Does it grind the gears in the transmission. If yes, it could be the
clutch/pressure plate. It could be the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder not
working. Check all these thing out before purchasing a new clutch/pressure
plate. When VW is running does if like the vehicle has no get up an on like
maybe the clutch is slipping. GB...stewbison
Excessive wear on clutches is usually from alot of heavy hauling, pulling heavy trailers. 40,000 miles is real excessive. If you can, I would take the access cover off the bottom of the bell housing and check to see if the pressure plate bolts aren't backing out. When the clutch was replaced they should have (or I would have ) used a thread lock on these bolts. There is always a lot of vibration in this area, and I have seen these bolts back out, on manual and automatic transmissions.
Lets start with what was replaced : Clutch pressure plate, throwout bearing,pilot bearing,input shaft bearing, was flywheel cut or replaced,Clutch cable or slave cylinder (whatever is applicable,) Lets see what repair shop says. Depending on what they say they did or didn't do we will take it from there.
keep me posted
did you bleed the hydralic clutch system on this vehicle? = air in system or not bleed properly.
most of the flywheels for this model were not to be machined...... however it is ok to machine these only slightly but you must machine the surface the clutch plate contacts with the same amount as the outer raised section the pressure plate bolts to.
new flywheels have painted stamped writing saying do not machine...so if hydralic system is ok find out about flywheel.
also may pay to check clamping force of pressure plate most clutch places can do this or some workshops that is if fingers on pressure plate are all at the same height, not broken or cracked..
you have 20k miles after the clutch has been changed, now are you used to drving clutch, secondly is it hydraulic or cable controled clutc?
if you are used to drving clutch sys probable cause is defective pressure plate or the throwout bearing is not fully releasing in other words the clutch is partialy applied all the time because of the re;ease bearing not fully releasing!!