Question about 1966 Ford Mustang

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Engine not turning on

I replaced both head gaskets as well as getting a valve job and resurfacing the heads. I replaced the ignition wires, manifold gaskets, header gaskets,and water pump gasket. I have oli and all fluids in car. When i turn the key over it sounds like its a low screetching sound. How can i get my car started?

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It sounds like you need to replace your fan belt.

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

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Replacing a head gasket in a 1993 buick century


Before head gasket replacement have you checked these
Intake Manifold Gaskets May Leak Coolant or Engine Oil
engine or leak. In some cases, an internal coolant leak may occur causing coolant to mix with the engine oil. Our technicians tell us that operating the engine with a coolant/oil mix can result in internal engine damage. Replacing the intake manifold gasket should correct these leaks.
Leaking Water Pump May Cause Coolant Loss and Overheating
A coolant leak may develop from the . The may overheat as a result of the coolant loss. A leaking water pump should be replaced.
Headgasket replacement
step 1. undo negative battery cable or completely remove battery and tray.
step 2. remove air cleaner and associated piping if it is in the way to allow access to head, drain cooling system and remove upper radiator hose.
step 3. remove top portion of exhaust manifold.
step 4. remove intake manifold and fuel injection rail as necessary
step 5. remove spark wires and valve cover.
step 6. remove drive belts and top timing cover before removing timing belt find all alignment marks and paint to improve your visibility and aid in reassembly if no marks are present remove spark plug # 1 and rotate until piston is at tdc and check timing mark on crankshaft that it is on 0 then paint the belt and cams anything that has teeth that the timing belt rides on make a mark to aid in reassembly even if you are replacing t-belt at least you can compare to new belt and transfer marks, release tension on t-belt tensioner and remove t-belt.
step 7. remove head bolts start loosening at inside and work outwards reemove head bolts and pay attention to sizing and placement.
carefully check for anything that is still attached to head and if free tap head with rubber or dead blow hammer to free from block and lift straight up so as not to ruin or bend any of the alignment pegs.
step 8. remove head gasket material with non-scratching tools or scrapers or buff pads made for that job. making note of where it was blown.
step 9. decide if you should send head to machine shop to have mating surface made flat again and also to have valves and related parts inspected or replaced. usually about $300-$400
step 10. inspect block remove all gasket material look for pitting or scarring also use straight edge to determine if it is straight or if it needs to be resurfaced by a machine shop.
step 11. install new headgasket and check fit. If all is good reassemble in reverse order of removal and I always like to replace crank seal ,cam seal, water pump, t-belt and tensioner also thermostat, drivebelts, spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, intake manifold ,exhaust manifold gaskets.
this is just a broad overview hope it helps you will have to get haynes manual or similar for head torque values and what not

Aug 05, 2014 | 1993 Buick Century

1 Answer

My 95 grand marque head gasket needs to be replaced how do I do It


This would be a MAJOR job for a DIYer. Remove the intake, remove the exhaust manifold, plug wiring and any other items connected to the head, Remove valve covers, valve assembly, push rods, head bolts and pry up the head. Clean all parts then buy a good quality head gasket and reverse the process.

Nov 07, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

How do you replace the head gasket


with great difficultry, It is verry time consuming end verry costly to have it (Replaced)

Nov 27, 2012 | 2000 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Can i remove one cylinder head and replace gasket?without doing both?and what is the torque sequence? This is on a pontiac 1976 400 ..grand prix


Yes, you can just do one head gasket, although I wouldn't recommend it.
If the head gasket has failed, it's usually because the engine has overheated. If you know that the engine has overheated, it would be best to do both heads.
When an engine overheats, the head warps a little. It doesn't take much to change the internal pressures on the gasket, and when the gasket area between the cylinders starts to lighten up a little, the gasket fails.
To do the job properly, take the head(s) to a qualified automotive machine shop and have the head resurfaced. Even a slightly warped head will be unable to keep a head gasket.
After a head has been resurfaced, it's relatively easy to put it back together.
NOTE!!
The machine shop will tell you the proper torque and torque sequence. Usually start from the center and work your way out evenly, going from side to side, and top to bottom, but get specific information for YOUR engine from the machine shop.
NEVER replace a head gasket without having the head resurfaced.

Mar 13, 2011 | Pontiac Grand Prix Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you take off a intake manifold


This is for the 4.6L motor...I'll post for the 5.0L and 5.8L....you didn't post your engine size so please pick the applicable motor:

4.6L Engine
CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

  1. If equipped with air suspension, the air suspension switch, located on the right-hand side of the luggage compartment, must be turned to the OFF position before raising the vehicle.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the engine cooling system.
  4. Relieve the fuel system pressure as follows:
    1. Remove the fuel tank fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
    2. Remove the cap from the Schrader valve located on the fuel injection supply manifold.
    3. Attach Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B or equivalent, to the Schrader valve and drain the fuel through the drain tube into a suitable container.
    4. After the fuel system pressure is relieved, remove the fuel pressure gauge and install the cap on the Schrader valve. Secure the fuel tank fill cap.
  5. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines.
  6. Remove the windshield wiper governor (module).
  7. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.
  8. Release the drive belt tensioner and remove the accessory drive belt.
  9. Tag and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs. Disconnect the ignition wire brackets from the cylinder head cover studs.
  10. Disconnect the wiring from both ignition coils and the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. Tag and disconnect all ignition wires from both ignition coils. Remove 2 bolts retaining the ignition wire bracket to the ignition coil brackets and remove the ignition wire assembly.
  11. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness from the junction block at the fender apron and alternator. Remove the bolts retaining the alternator brace to the intake manifold and the alternator to the cylinder block and remove the alternator.
  12. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  13. Disconnect the oil pressure sensor and power steering control valve actuator wiring and position the wiring harness out of the way.
  14. Disconnect the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube from the right-hand exhaust manifold.
  15. Lower the vehicle.
  16. Remove and detach the engine/transmission harness connector from the retaining bracket on the power brake booster.
  17. Detach the A/C compressor clutch, Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and the canister purge solenoid wiring connectors.
  18. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover and disconnect the canister purge vent hose from the PCV valve.
  19. Disconnect the accelerator and cruise control cables from the throttle body. Remove the accelerator cable bracket from the intake manifold and position out of the way.
  20. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body adapter port.
  21. Disconnect both Heated Oxygen Sensors (HO2S) and the heater water hose.
  22. Remove 2 bolts retaining the thermostat housing to the intake manifold and position the upper hose and thermostat housing out of the way.
The 2 thermostat housing bolts are also used to retain the intake manifold.
  1. Remove 9 bolts retaining the intake manifold to the cylinder heads and remove the intake manifold. Remove and discard the gaskets.
  2. If replacing the intake manifold, swap over the necessary parts.
To install:
  1. Clean all gasket mating surfaces.
  2. Position new intake manifold gaskets on the cylinder heads. Make sure the alignment tabs on the gaskets are aligned with the holes in the cylinder heads.
  3. Install the intake manifold and 9 retaining bolts. Hand tighten the right-rear bolt (viewed from the front of the engine) before final tightening, then torque the bolts, in sequence, to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
  4. Inspect and if necessary, replace the O-ring seal on the thermostat housing. Position the housing and upper hose and install 2 retaining bolts. Torque to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
  5. Reconnect the heater water hose.
  6. Reconnect both HO2S wiring connectors.
  7. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the throttle body adapter vacuum port.
  8. Install the accelerator cable bracket on the intake manifold and connect the accelerator and cruise control cables to the throttle body.
  9. Install the PCV valve in the cylinder head cover and connect the canister purge solenoid vent hose. Reconnect the A/C compressor clutch, CKP sensor and canister purge solenoid wiring connectors.
  10. Reconnect the engine/transmission harness connector. Install the connector on the retaining bracket on the power brake booster.
  11. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  12. Reconnect the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to the right-hand exhaust manifold. Torque the tube nut to 26-33 ft. lbs. (35-45 Nm).
  13. Reconnect the power steering control valve actuator and the oil pressure sensor wiring connectors.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
  15. Position the alternator and install 2 retaining bolts. Torque to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm). Install 2 bolts retaining the alternator brace to the intake manifold and torque to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
  16. Reconnect the alternator wiring harness to the alternator, right-hand fender apron and junction block.
  17. Position the ignition wire assembly on the engine and install 2 bolts retaining the ignition wire bracket to the ignition coil brackets. Torque the bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
  18. Reconnect the ignition wires to the ignition coils in their proper positions. Reconnect the ignition wires to the spark plugs.
  19. Reconnect the ignition wire brackets on the cylinder head cover studs. Reconnect the wiring connectors to both ignition coils and the CMP sensor.
  20. Install the accessory drive belt.
  21. Install the engine air cleaner outlet tube.
  22. Install the windshield wiper governor.
  23. Reconnect the fuel supply and return lines.
  24. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.
  25. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  26. If equipped with air suspension, turn the air suspension switch to the ON position.
  27. Start the engine and check for leaks.
  28. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
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4.6L engine intake manifold torque sequence—1996-98 Models

Nov 30, 2009 | 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis

2 Answers

Amount of time expected to do a head gasket, water pump on a 97 olds achieva 2.2?


I'd expect to pay anywhere from 8-12 hours of labor. A head gasket is a tremendously time-consuming job and takes a lot of work. You'll also be paying for other parts (intake and exhaust manifold gaskets have to be replaced, new coolant, new oil since both are drained before the job starts), and if you're doing a water pump, bite the bullet and do the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, accessory belt(s), and thermostat as well - those are normally done with the water pump and there's no sense in paying the labor twice.

Nov 18, 2009 | 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva

2 Answers

Hi, what does it mean when huge amounts of white smoke comes out of the exhaust? otherwise drives ok? it is a renault megane 1.5 dci 2004. regards catherine


Symptom: White smoke or water vapor from the exhaust. You notice white smoke coming from the exhaust when you start your car. If it is cold out, this may be normal. If the smoke does not disappear after the car is warmed, you have a problem. Possible causes:
  1. Transmission fluid may be entering the intake manifold through vacuum modulator.
    The Fix: Replace vacuum modulator
  2. Cylinder head gasket(s) may be bad.
    The Fix: Replace cylinder head gasket(s).
  3. Cylinder head(s) may be warped or cracked.
    The Fix: Resurface or replace cylinder heads. (Resurfacing is not a DIY job)
  4. The engine block may be cracked.
    The Fix: Replace engine block.

Oct 12, 2009 | 2005 Renault R5

2 Answers

When told your car needs a valve job, what does that mean


A valve job is removing the cylinder head(s) from the engine so the valves, guides and seats can be refurbished to restore compression and oil control. A valve job may be necessary by the time an engine has 80,000 or more miles on it, or to fix a "burned valve," compression or oil burning problem.
Before we describe all the steps that a typical valve job involves, we should warn you that some shops don't necessary do all the steps. In other words, you get what you pay for. A "cheapie" valve job might skip a lot of things that saves you a few dollars in the short run, but may end up costing you a lot more in the long run. So look for a shop or service facility that does quality work.
A valve job typically begins by disassembling, cleaning and inspecting the cylinder head. Cast iron heads are "Magnafluxed" to check for hairline cracks. This involves applying a strong magnetic field to the head and sprinkling iron powder on it. Cracks disrupt the magnetic field and attract the iron powder, making invisible cracks easy to see.
Cracks are bad news because they can leak coolant into the combustion chamber damaging the cylinders and/or causing the engine to lose coolant and overheat. If cracks are found in any critical areas of the head, the head must either be repaired or replaced. Cracks in cast iron heads are most often repaired by "pinning" (installing a series of overlapping threaded pins). Cracks in aluminum heads are very common and can often be repaired by welding.
If a head has been repaired (pinned or welded), most shops will usually pressure test the head afterward to make sure there are no leaks. Some may also apply a sealer compound to the inside of the water jackets as added insurance against future leaks.
Once the head passes this point, it is also checked for flatness. The surface of the head must be flat to seal the head gasket against the block. Excessive warpage, roughness or any damage can cause the head gasket to fail. If the head exceeds the maximum allowable out-of-flatness specs, it must be resurfaced or replaced. Usually there's enough metal in the head to allow for a certain amount of resurfacing. But on many import aluminum cylinder heads, the amount of resurfacing that's possible is minimal.
Overhead cam aluminum cylinder heads are often found to be warped (usually the result of overheating). If the condition cannot be corrected by resurfacing, the head can often be straightened by heating it in a special oven and then bending it until it is straight.
Next come the valves, guides and seats. The guides are checked for wear. They're almost always worn, so they either need to be replaced, relined or knurled (a process whereby grooves are cut into the inside diameter of the guides to decrease the bore size). Few shops knurl guides anymore. Most install new guides, guide liners or bore out the old guides to accept new valves with oversized stems. Aluminum heads have cast iron or bronze guides that can be replaced but most cast iron heads do not.
If the valves are to be reused, they will be inspected, checked for straightness then refaced. Many shops automatically replace all the exhaust valves to reduce the risk of failure (exhaust valves run much hotter than intakes and are much more likely to fail).
The seats in the head are either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface. If a seat is cracked or too badly worn to be refaced, the seat must be replaced. If that isn't possible (as is the case on many late model cast iron heads because the casting is too thin), then the entire head must be replaced. All aluminum heads have hardened steel seats that can be replaced.
The valve springs are all inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure. The spring retainers, keepers and other hardware is likewise inspected. Any worn or damaged components are replaced. New valve guide seals are always used.
The valves are then installed in the head and shimmed to restore proper valve height. This is necessary because machining the valves and seat alters their dimensions. Valve height is important because it affects valvetrain geometry and guide wear. If it is an overhead cam engine, the cam is also installed and the valve lash adjusted prior to returning the head to the customer

Sep 18, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Tercel

2 Answers

1999 GMC Surburban 5.7. Head gasket leaking on passenger side. Need step by step info on how to repair


Buy a Chiltons or Clymers manual at your local parts store...it will have what you need
Also there are special tools you will need for this job, make sure you have them.

Sep 03, 2009 | 1999 GMC Suburban

1 Answer

I need a diagram of a 1995 ford escort engine


96 escort 1.9L

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Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

Feb 24, 2009 | 1995 Ford Escort

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