Question about 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

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Engine stalls Engine runs fine...........but 2-3 times per day, I will slow down for a stop and engine stalls and quits. It will idle around 700-800 rpm's normally and I can almost tell when it's going to happen. It will drop to 500 rpm, then shut off. I put trans in nuetral, turn engine back on and it's fine again for another few hours. Does not matter if it's cold or hot. Does not miss. Recently had engine injector flush plus have been running a high grade injector cleaner/ water remover. All filters are good. What's going here?

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My friend had one that did the same and he replaced throttle positioning sensor and it fixed it. but when you put a new battery in them they wont idle until you hold at steady low rpm for almost a minute because it has to relearn its position. so check your voltage meter and make sure it is around 13-14 volts when running and not on 12 while running because it could be too low of voltage for it and would be the same principle as disconnecting the battery because it takes 12 volts to keep computer on. hope I wasnt too confusing but I just want you to check your voltage for free before you buy electrical parts.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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1 Answer

Vibrations during idling


which engine.??? never post lacking engine ,here is why.
1.3 L G13B I4
1.5 L G15A I4
1.6 L G16B I4
1.8 L J18A I4
1.8 L BP-ZE I4
1.9 L XUD9 diesel I4

Ill answer in the generic and for GAS engines. only.
that is illegal RPM, the ECU regulates it to 800 all the time
that means the ECU can not regulate the RPM now, for many reasons.
and sure it vibrates too low, that is normal for all 4cylinders to do that.
no bad engine mounts never lower RPM to 600, ever.
they dont control idle speed at all.
the #1 reason for most cars to idle too low are:
1: EGR leaks, (clean it)
2: ISC stuck closed (electric idle speed acututor dirty) clean it.
3: gross misfiring , caused by bad spark or bad fuel mix.
4: low compression on 1 or more cylinders (real low) Do compression test at WOT. throttle.



Apr 19, 2014 | 1997 Suzuki Baleno

1 Answer

2002 Tundra, replaced battery, alternator was checked and is good, but engine cuts out when I slow down/break, and battery light comes on. Starts back up easily.


stop guessing, please.$$$$$
hot or cold engine, or both.
ever heard of engine stall? the rpm drops below 800 and stalls?
the engine rpm is KEY
post all symptoms, and we can fix it.
so far all i have is the hint of a stall or engine running at 300 rpm.
the alternator don't work at 300 rpm. at stall or near that.
your car dont have a tachometer? if it has one learn to watch it.
stalls are complex.
can be.
The engine PCM controls idle speed and Regulation at all times.
and is the LAST thing to work right, in EFI.

think of a juggler of bowling pins, a delicate balancing act.
so if the pins are slippery , he drop one, so easy.
EFI is Electronic fuel Injection (makes spark too , on gas engines..)

on EFI, idle fails (low) 800 is normal hot block, (look up yours. no engine options or size or cylinder counts stated)

the low RPM is caused by. many things. (i have a list of 50) so skip that....
1: too rich , too lean,. misfiring, DTCs set, ever scan the PCM YET?
2: EGR sticking open(clean it)
3: ISC (IAC electric) stuck closed, (again clean it)
4: never did the 60k mile tune up? if you did it would run ,if not the person doing it would tell you why it dont run right or even fix. it.
during a tune up , we check the ISC and EGR for filth and clean them.

now ill do the marco (physics answer)
1: bad engine, engine compression bad on 1 or more cylinders.
2: bad spark , tuneups fix this 99% of time, and work
3: bad fueling. (vastly complex. but most times bad inputs to ECU)

there are exceptions, but all land on #1 (stops engine from pumping air)

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1 Answer

1998 Honda Accord engine rumbles and stops


rumbles?, did the RPM drop below 800 RPM? that is called idle failure
and when it does, idle can go to 400 rpm and will shake hard.
and is normal for illegal idle speeds. so post that first.
post that engine stalls
and that the RPM is 400-500 just before the stall.
then post if the fast right foot can save the stall (a key test !!!!)
if easy the ISC is sticking.
if tad hard the EGR is stuck open'
if impossible to save. then more possible (many)
ever do the 60k mile tune up this decade????,. if not why not./ now.

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1 Answer

Hi, I recently been have a problem with my 1998 Honda, passport. While driving my Honda it would shut down then starts again on its own while rolling. At times it would not start again on its own you need...


sure, rolling in gear you mean. (same effect as push starting a car with M/T) what speed did it restart, 5mph or 50 or 85mph.?)
what transmission. A/T or M/T? BEG ERROR there !

shut down,?
you mean stalls,
and engine can do 3 things
run too slow (way below 800RPM idle , illegal idle speeds)
stalls (rpm goes to zero or you find zero power from the engine )
if you stop the car, and the engine stalls that is an engine stall.

or run perfectly.

does your model have a tachometer to you can see RPM?
and if idle controls work,
not posting the trans type, (non body does here) makes answers near impossible. infact most will just ignore you posts.

with a M?T car the engine immediately returns (hot ) to 800rpm
and is regulated very closely by the EFI brain (PCM)
if not you are seeing IDLE control failure.
with and A/T there is no MT clutch and when you stop
the autoclutch drags (wastes fuel like mad) and puts a huge load
on the engine, stopped say at a red light. the idle controls
on A/t are greatly taxed here.
so RPM can drop real low. fail. or stall. below 800
a stall happens at about 400 RPM.
the M/T can at any time be restarted on the fly (moving)
but just dumping the clutch. or just waiting as you coast in gear.
this is how push starting any M/T car works.
but on an A/T car , on the fly restarts take huge speeds.
and only works on A/T that have 2 oil pumps.
the A/T with no rear pump , the A/T can not be push starter
or coast restarted, if the front pump is dead(engine stalled)
im not looking up your tranny spec. because you never stated, it.


my engine stalls. (not tranny slip)
1: bad 12vdc power to any EFI system component.
2: never ever tuned up per the free operators guide in glove box.
3: lost engine compression. 1 or all cylinders.
4: lost spark. (or timed wrong, early cars have distributors)
5: bad fueling. too much or too little

when the engine runs , does the MIL, CEL glow running
btw the CEL also glows, at all stalls. the lamp only means.
I HAVE ELECT power, now.... only.

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this is caused by slow engine idle speed, do the procedure below.
Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.



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1 Answer

At idle engine surge's up and down usually a few hundred RPM's


DS THIS PROCEDURE
Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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2 Answers

Throttle/Idle/running problem - wants to run too fast, or stall out


RPM's up and down check EGR valve and sensor. EGR valve and sensor control idle. That's why your getting the surging on rpm's and this could be giving out the other codes. If mass flow was bad car will not start and the same for the map sensor. O2 sensor measures gas and air for right mixer. TPS controls 0-60 speed as in throttle respons.

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2 Answers

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Here are some of the causes of surges up and down at idle, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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2 Answers

2000 323i stalling when i slow down


Here is what you need to do, a cleaning of the intake throttle blade and the idle speed control air-bypass valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours,
Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the engine at idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

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