My front hubs are manual locking and when i lock them in the front driveshaft locks so i know they are locked but the transfer case will not lock into 4 wheel drive.it is electronic.i can here a clicking in the dash.i would like to switch the case or make this on a manual shift transfer case.can i do this?1992 extended cab ford 4x4 302 fi automatic,electronic locking tranfer case manual locking front hubs.
Check the electric motor on the rear of the transfer case, this is what engages the t case into and out of 4wd, it is not uncommon to find the plastic stop disentigrated at the actuator arm,which is what "tells" the control module it is "good to go" go to 1993 ford explorer xlt problem here at fixya and look at similar problem for a better idea /repair on your situation . it uses the same type of actuator
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Does it have manual locking front hubs? Some people fit these to full time four wheel drive vehicles to reduce driveline effort and increase fuel efficiency. The issue is that the drive from the transfer case will find the path of least resistance which if the front hubs are not locked power will be sent through the front diff and only spin the front drive shafts. To ensure drive power is sent to the rear diff the centre diff needs to be locked. If you do have manual locking front hubs try putting them in the locked position and leave the centre diff button off and try going for a drive.
What you want to do is engage the system and then kill the engine. This will work with electric hubs if you leave the keyswitch on.
With the front tires off the ground, a locked hub should turn the c-v joint and try to turn the front differential. If the transfer case is locked in 4x4 then the front driveshaft should be locked too. The differential is caught in the middle. It may have spider gears which can break, but if the c-v joint turns something is not connecting inside the front differential.
If the front hubs are Vacuum activated, you should be able to apply Vacuum and do the same test.
Yes u can but you should remove one or both driveshafts. you can unlock your front hubs if they come with manual front locking hubs. and put the transfer case in neutral To b safe I would remove both front a rear driveshafts
SOUNDS LIKE A BAD HUB TRY THIS TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM
Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake and raise the chassis so one of the front wheels is off the ground while the other is still on the ground. When the transfer case is in two-wheel drive, the hubs should be released allowing the wheels to turn freely when spun by hand. If the axle shaft turns when you spin the wheel, it means the hub has not disengaged.
To check engagement, rotate the axle shaft backwards. This should lock the hub. Try turning the wheel by hand again. The axle shaft should now turn with the wheel if the hub is locked. If the hub fails to lock, the hub will have to be disassembled and inspected or replaced.
To check release, hold the axle shaft steady and rotate the wheel backwards. You should hear a click as the locking mechanism slides back out and disengages the hub. Rotate the wheel forward again and it should turn freely.
Another way to check the hubs is to raise the vehicle on a frame contact lift so all four wheels are off the ground. Then start the engine and place the transfer case in four-wheel drive and the transmission in drive. If the front wheels don't turn, look at the front axle shafts. If both shafts are turning, but one wheel is not, the problem is a bad hub on the wheel that isn't turning. If the front driveshafts are not turning when the transfer case is in four-wheel drive, the problem is inside the differential (broken side gears) or the transfer case (broken chain, shift linkage, etc.). If the driveshaft between the transfer case and differential is turning, the problem is in the differential. If the driveshaft is not turning, the vehicle is going to need repairs to the transfer case.
Hope this helps.
Hi, Do you have auto locking hubs on the front wheels, or manual locking hubs? If you have auto locking hubs chances are they are not engaging properly and will need to be removed and spline sets checked for broken teeth on locking hub and locking shaft. If you have manual locking hubs then check that they are firm when turning to engage them in the lock position.If they are light when engaging them to the lock position then they my have broken/worn out the locking hub and spline. Also check that the engaging spring inside the hub has enough tension to engage the hubs they may be broken. If the hub are all ok then you have a problem in the transfer box, where the 4WD lever is not meshing the transfer box properly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.
I had the same thing happen. The automatic locking hubs are faulty, causing one or both hubs to try to engage or disengage onto the front driveshaft. This makes the clicking noise and loud clunking that you hear. You may notice your steering pulling to one side of the road,because one hub is locked in. Replace the automatic hubs with new ones, do not try to fix the old ones. I liked the
convience of automatic hubs but replaced mine with manual hubs, there just way more reliable.
Hello scotch1812, those of us that still enjoy the square headlights have to stick together! The front axle in our YJ's are dana 30 with a high pinion! The high pinion make the ring and pinion spin in a reverse rotation from the dana 30 found in CJ and TJ Jeeps. When Chrysler designed the YJ front axle, they removed the manual hubs like those found in CJ models and installed a vacuum disconnect on the passenger side axle shaft. The passenger side axle shaft is 2 piece with a sleeve that is moved into place to connect the 2 pieces of axle shaft when you shift the transfer case into 4 wheel drive. This is done via a vacuum module mounted on the axle housing. If your module diaphram goes bad you have no 4WD! If your vacuum hose comes off of the module or breaks you have no 4WD. Now when your transfer case is in 2WD the front driveshaft does not turn. The vacuum disconnect allows this to happen. As for the hubs, they are simply hubs with sealed bearings and a universal joint to allow your front wheels to turn left and right. If you hear the banging noise in 2WD it could be a bad universal joint in one of your axle shafts.
Now if you are hearing the banging noise only when you are in 4WD there could be a number of reasons. You could have a broken axle shaft or a bad bearing in your ring and pinion. Your front driveshaft could be bent or at least not straight. I would start with the driveshaft. Just lay under the Jeep (Not running! With emergency brake set!) and spin the front driveshaft. If it spins true and doesn't have an out of round rotation we can rule that out! Also, grab it and push it and pull it to check to see if your universal joints in the drive shaft are gor and tight! They can make a grinding noise or popping noise if they are bad!
Try these and let me know what you find! We will find your problem!
Hubs do quit working. Jack both front wheels off of the ground and lock the hubs but leave the transfer case in 2wd. If you spin one wheel the other should spin backwards. If not replace the hubs. If they do spin correctly, you may have a transfer case problem or a front chunk problem.