Question about 2005 Dodge Dakota

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Brakes I locked up brakes when i hit a deer. 2 days later I lost all fluid from brake system.My mechanic is replacing the master cylinder and reservoir. He claims they r both bad. Is this a common problem, are there any recalls? I have a dodge dakota 2005. thanks

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No thats not normal did all the fluid come from the master or resivoir if not hes replacing the wrong parts unless the resivoir is cracked they dont go bad check your mechanic and call the buereau of auto repair if you think hes tryin to take you for a ride on most new cars the master and resivoir are sold seperate you might have an abs pump problem

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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I have a 1972 Ford F-600 with remote mounted hydravac booster. It has good pedal and stops well, but, when you push the brake pedal fluid comes out the vent in master cylinder cap. Any help?


Hi Anonymous:
I've 2 ideas:
1) Is it possible that the master cylinder reservoir has been overfilled?
2) Follow through this with me. As soon as I'm wrong, it's not relevant. Older vehicle....Possibly double acting master cylinder which means there could be 2 separate lines coming out of the master cylinder. One of the seals in the master cylinder may have failed, thus squirting brake fluid inside the master cylinder instead of pressurizing that part of the brake system. The brakes will work, but only for the wheels served by the functioning part.
A test for this could be to put a pressure guage on the outlets. The field test would be to drive at about 10 MPH in a safe area, and STAND on the brake pedal. If only two of the brakes lock up, you. will need to replace the master cylinder.

Apr 29, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

02 Ford Explorer sporttrac xlt. New rotors calipers pads and master cylinder. Bled it twice stream looks good new fluid. One day breaks stick then the next no breaks Break light on Proportional valve?


For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?
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Apr 21, 2015 | 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

2 Answers

My 95 ford probe has a hard time going into gear i push the clutch in and try to put it into first i sometimes can but mustly i really gotta force it to go into first and the rest of the gears as well


Sounds like there is likely a master cylinder or slave cylinder leak. These are the two that push the hydraulic fluid to the clutch mechanism and sequentially the slave cylinder after getting the pressure of the forced fluid to it from the master, it forces the rod out of it the move the clutch mechanism so that the clutch engages and disengages the engine/trans.
also check if you have a brake line leak as the brake fluid reservoir shares its fluid with the clutch master cylinder. If enough of the fluid is being drained out of the brake reservoir so that you are pumping air into the clutch slave cylinder, but still have enough in the reservoir to have the brakes working, then you should check that as well. I however think its likely either the clutch master or slave.

Apr 20, 2012 | 1995 Ford Probe

1 Answer

I think i need a master cylinder in my 1994 pontiac bnneville? How hard/easy it it to replace myself. I can purchase ne for around 50-60 dollars.


Yes it is not that hard to replace.

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REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
  1. Retainer and electrical connector from fluid level sensor.
  2. Drain brake fluid front mister cylinder reservoir.
  3. Reservoir hose from master cylinder. Plug hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  4. Brake pipes from master cylinder. Plug open pipes to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  5. Two attaching nuts.
  6. Master cylinder.
  7. Reservoir, if it is to he used on replacement master cylinder.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
  1. Reservoir onto master cylinder, as needed.
  2. Master cylinder on to power booster.
  3. Attaching nuts. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.).
  4. Brake pipes. Tighten brake pipe fittings to 15 Nm (11 lb. ft.).
  5. Reservoir hose onto master cylinder.
  6. Fill master cylinder reservoir to full level mark using only Delco Supreme 11 Brake Fluid, or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid.
  7. Electrical connector to fluid level sensor, secure with retainer.
  8. Bleed hydraulic system.
  9. Recheck fluid level in reservoir
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Mar 09, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

2 Answers

Brake pedal goes to floor


From the symptom you have stated, there is a problem with brake system. You have not mentioned whether you have any braking effect on the vehicle when the brake pedal goes to floor. Anyway, you may check the following:
1. Check brake fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. If the level is less, then you have to go to a garage as just filling up the fluid will not help and the brake hydraulic system needs bleeding.
2. Get the brake adjustment of all the wheels checked by an experienced garage mechanic.
3. Get the Brake Master and Wheel cylinders checked by an experienced garage mechanic.
4. The brake liners might be worn out. Get the same checked by an experienced garage mechanic.
5. Brake pipes which convey brake fluid from Master cylinder to the wheels might be leaking. Get the same checked by an experienced garage mechanic.
Whatever may be the cause of the symptom, do not use your vehicle till you get the problem solved as you are accedent prone without the brake system proper functioning.
Good luck..

Feb 20, 2011 | GMC Blazer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i bleed the brakes on a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am?


Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.


  1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
    fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
    (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
  2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
    the top of the brake calipers.
  3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
    end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
    right front.
  5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
    brake pedal.
  6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
    return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
  7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
    bleeder screw and remove the hose.
  8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
    after bleeding each wheel.
  9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.


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Sep 21, 2010 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

How to change a master cylinder


a Master rates about a 5 out of 10 with 10 being the hardest

you may find the hardest part is the actual bench bleeding of the master
and/or
the replacement of the reservoir

These are the instructions from my service manual, but I do not remove the fluid prior to service steps 2-6

  1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Disconnect electrical connector from filler cap.
  2. Remove fluid reservoir filler cap.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove front wheels.
  5. Remove dust cap and loosen bleed nipple. Connect a bleed tube to bleed nipple and into a suitable container.
  6. Pump brake pedal until all fluid is expelled. Tighten bleed nipple.
  7. Lower vehicle. Install brake fluid reservoir cap. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube.
  8. Disconnect central electrical box electrical connector.
  9. Remove central electrical box retaining screw.
  10. Remove central electrical box and relocate to air cleaner area.
  11. Disconnect brake fluid feed tube. Disconnect brake lines.
  12. On models with anti-lock brakes, disconnect brake lines from Hydraulic Control Unit.
  13. On all models, remove brake booster vacuum hose.
  14. Extract master cylinder from vehicle.
  15. On models with manual transaxles, remove clutch hose from brake/clutch reservoir.
  16. On all models, remove master cylinder nuts and remove master cylinder.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system.

May 31, 2010 | 2001 Ford Focus

3 Answers

Break peddle to the floor no resistence behind it, and not stopping well, no noise.


First of all, don't drive with the brakes this way...
Sounds like you've lost the hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
Check the following:
1. Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it's full of brake fluid. If not, top it off with the recommend brake fluid.
2. Try the brake pedal again, with the car running in PARK, press a few times and see if the pedal "firms up".
3. If it does, press and hold the brake pedal with the motor still running. Look to see if the pedal slowly sinks to the floor or if it's a bit "mushy" or feels ok.

If the pedal sinks to the floor, you've got a major leak in the brake system. This could be from one of the wheel cylinders, from the disk brake caliper piston, a damage brake hose, brake line, a faulty master cylinder, power brake booster.
The best way to check is a visual inspection. Look around each wheel- look for fluid leaks, for signs of fluid where you park, on the axles, under the hood near the brake fluid reservoir, etc.
If after the fluid is topped off, you get a mushy pedal, I would suggest getting the brakes "bled". Bleeding the brakes simply means getting all the air out of the brake lines. (Air compresses where brake fluid won't- if the pedal is mushy it's got air.)
If you've not done brake work before, I highly recommend taking it to a local mechanic to help you out. You really want to KNOW that your brakes are going to be there when you need them. So if in doubt have a mechanic check it out.

Jan 18, 2010 | 2001 Toyota Echo

1 Answer

The Abs sign is on during driving what is wrong with it


If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes, or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on.
Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed.
Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause the vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake shoes or pads that have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be dried out and must be replaced.

Apr 26, 2009 | 2005 Toyota ECHO

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