It me again.... my CELhas been coming and going, but lately it has been staying on. i do not remember the code but the guy at Autozone confirmed it was the egr. i do not have a vacuum pump to correctly check it, but the guy at the store told me that i can remove and clean the valve. i looked at it, it seems a bit hard to get to, but it is possible... do you recommend attempting to clean it, and if so, how do i go about do so.
soryy, it's a 96 chevy caprice 185, xxx miles and running strong.
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Re: CEL IS SHOWING SOMETHING ABOUT EGR VALVE
First before you remove it make sure you have a new gasket. I would also make sure there is a new one avaliable locally if you need to purchase one. Supposedly once you have it off you can tap on the bottom and break loose any carbon build up I guess. As far as not having a vacuum pump. If you have a piece of vacuum hose you could probably attach to it and **** on it and see if the diaphram is good. Kind of crude method but should work.
New EGR might be around $75.-80. Guessing.
Hope this helps you keep it going another 185,000
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I would assume the check engine light is on now because the EGR is not working ? Depending on which hose you are talking about, it may be causing a vac leak near cylinder 5. There is a solenoid valve that cuts off vac to the EGR valve at idle which may not be working. The EGR valve should not be open unless the engine is above 1500 RPM or so.
The check engine light will not go out on its own until usually after 20 or so starts.You need to back to Auto zone and have them hook up the analyzer again and clear the codes (they will do this for free). If the problem was your EGR valve, the light will then go out.
with a scan tool or if problem fixed sometimes reset on own after about 125 miles or so--also some auto stores such as auto zone/advanced auto scan vehicles for free and also can reset some of the codes depending on what they are
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak, a problem with the wiring, or a bad PCM. Check wiring for pinched, chafed, pierced, or broken wires. Make sure vacuum supply is good, and not collapsing when the vehicle is running. Beyond that, a trip to the dealer may be in order.
Have tried cleaning out the throttle body? Carb cleaner and a rag should do the trick. Also, try bypassing the vacuum solenoid. First, remove the vacuum line from the solenoid, start the car, and then connect the vacuum line directly to the EGR valve. The car should run very rough and die. If not, then there is still something blocking the system (since you replaced everything, it might be down in the pipe (between valve and exhaust)). Also, ensure that the vacuum is strong enough by ensuring that the lines sticks to your fingers. Final possibility is that your new sensor is bad. You can do a voltage check (with igntion turned toon: 1 wire at 5 volts, 1 wire at 0 volts and 1 wire at about .5 tp 1.1 volts). The aftermarket sensors are not always of the best quality.
The mechanic is only clearing the codes for you.Witch will get the light out for you.But he isn't telling you your fault. knowing the light will come back on in time.Change the mass air flow meter.Then get the coeds cleared.You can remove and clean the EGR valve.if that is causing the problem.
its easy too replace but you need too reset your cmputer first too see if the light stays out before you go and buy the egr valve
disconnect the pos side of the battery for 5 min that will reset the computer,if the light comes back on then get the egr valve then you will have too reset it again
Most manuals will tell you that a flashing CEL idicates a condition that as harmful to the cat converter on some late model vehicles it will put them into "limp in" mode.I don't think there is a position sensor for the EGR(I could be wrong),the egr is normally electrically triggered but is run off of vacuum(check your hoses).
Most likely, if you are losing milage I would check the O2 sensors on live data to see if they are functioning properly, also check the data on the engine temp sensor(not the one for the dash gauge).this kind of works like a choke if it doesn't work the comuputer treats it like a COLD engine,which in turn will over fuel the engine hence the damage to the cat.I will see if I can get more info on your codes
You probably pulled a code p0401, insufficient egr flow. Your DPFE sensor is more than likely at fault. There has been a lot of trouble with these sensors. Then reset CEL or disconnect battery for 5 minutes.