Question about 1994 Saab 900

1 Answer

2.3 900 se fan belt

Can any one help me with a diagram on how to fix a fan belt for a saab 900 se 2.3 without aircon and where is the tensioner

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 100 times.

    Sniper:

    An expert who has posted more than 50 answers, of which 90% or more were rated as helpful.

  • Expert
  • 76 Answers

The Saab fan is electrically controlled directly via the ECU and has no belt. I will therefore assume you are referring to the accessory belt that drives the power steering pump, the alternator, AC, etc. Pictures and step by step instructions are here and here. Both of these sites are also demonstrating the use of a shorter belt to bypass a center idler pulley that fails frequently (and that was eliminated altogether by Saab in the transition from new generation 900s to the first iteration of the 9-3 model).

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I need to replace the serpentine belt on a 1995 Saab 900 s


Use a 6 or 8 inch 1/2 socket extension bar and place it in the top of the tensioner pulley, there is a notch in pulley for this. The tensioner pulley is near the firewall at the top of the engine....make a diagram of the belt routing and note which side( smooth or grooved) is lying on the pulley(usually grooved side of belt). Next you would pull tensioner pulley forward and slip the old belt off....you would route your new belt the same way and slip it on the tensioner pulley last.....you will need to pull the tensioner pulley forward again to get the slack you need to slide the belt over the pulley. I have found the Saab to be one of the easiest cars to change the serpentine belt on. I hope this helps.

Nov 28, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

2 Answers

Installing a serpentine belt on a saab 900s


Im assuming you already know about using a 1/2 inch drive extension to position the tension pully so you can get the belt on or off.

Nov 14, 2009 | 1997 Saab 900

3 Answers

I need the timming belt diagram for a 1994 saab 900 v6 se 2.5 litter


go on in to saab. they will be able to print one out for you.

Mar 23, 2009 | 1994 Saab 900

3 Answers

I need an engine diagram for a 1995 saab 900 se V6


A SAAB dealer should be able to print one out for you. BTW that engine is practically identical to the V6 used in a caddy Catera, and Saturn Ion. Those diagrams would be the same, so you might want to search that also.

Jan 18, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

1993 saab 900 belt diagram


Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.

(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in Englishicon_cheesygrin.gif ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.

Dec 13, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

2 Answers

My fan belt is loose on my 97 saab


The Saab accessory drive belt is self-tensioning by means of a tensioning pulley. The excessive play means that your current belt is spent and must be replaced. It is a very good idea to replace this pulley at this time as the bearings fail over time. You can get an aftermarket pulley of machined billet aluminum construction with a repalceable bearing race from Wazee Pulleys. This pulley is superior to the stock one in just about every conceivable way. You will need a 1/2 inch socket extension bar that will fit exactly in the top of the tensioning pulley housing and a six mm allen key. This site shows the proper routing of the stock belt and the routing procedure to bypass the highly failure prone center idler pulley if you so elect, as well as the procedure to remove and fit a new belt. Note, the belts shown on this site are for the short-belt modification only. The stock replacement belt is Part Code: 4904728 Brand: sm_bb8ca689-80fc-49cb-b9fd-7280758bc3c4.gif
Description: Serpentine belt for any 94-98 NG 900 4cyl.


Price: $35.90 at Eeuroparts.com.

Nov 21, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

1 Answer

Fan Belt wont fit on my saab 900


8011 this diagram should help.70129e8.jpg

Aug 24, 2008 | 1994 Saab 900

1 Answer

98 saab 900 se convertible - driver side seat belt is fully "in" and is stuck. I can't really move it in and out, because it is almost fully withdrawn inside...


The belt ratcheting mechanism is knackered. I have tried twice to fix this problem and simply could not do it. My ultimate solution was to buy a used belt from Goldwing Saab in NY and install that. It is about a 35 to 40 minute job in the verts.

Jul 23, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

1 Answer

Fan Belt wont fit on my saab 900


ok, the you've got the wrong belt.
unless you are rerouting the belt wrong.
if you have email address i can send you the image of the position of the belt.

May 24, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

Not finding what you are looking for?
1994 Saab 900 Logo

597 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Saab Experts

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21988 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

63661 Answers

rgbypoet

Level 2 Expert

162 Answers

Are you a Saab Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...