Jeep Liberty, 2002; large engine (Minnesota - is cold here)
When coming to a stop, at a traffic light for example, the air temperature from the heater goes cold; COLD, not just cool. Fan remains on. Coolant is at the proper level. Heat gauge does not drop (about in 12oclock position).
Have covered the front radiator with cardboard (is loose, outside temp is below zero - no gauge movement) This did not help at all. Belts are good. No leaking of fluids have been seen. No engine codes.
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Re: no heat when car not moving
Ok, judging from what you've said it sounds like a vacuum issue. The temperature controls are activated by vacuum which is produced by the engine. Look for small hoses that lead from the intake manifold to the firewall, check them and make sure they are not broken, disconnected, or leaking. The vacuum directly controls the doors inside your dashboard which push the air to the heater core. Also make sure that the coolant hoses going to and from the firewall are hot. If all that checks out, then the controls inside the car may have gone bad, or may have become disconnected from the vacuum supply, or the actuator door inside the dash is stuck or broken.
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could be relay but I'm thinking your lines are exposed somewhere between relay and fan and they are shoting out. Thats why it works when you move them. Youi could always electrical tape them (full length) and see if that works. Hope this helps
do you have a "check engine" light on? A bad temp sensor would give a wrong reading. Do you get heat from your heater core? Also make sure you are getting a good flow from catalytic converter and muffler so you know they aren't plugged heating up engine temp. Also make sure all your heat shields are in tact. Are you using 50/50 mix or mostly water? Though in cold temps you normally want to use more antifreeze less water, I would try more water, less antifrezze.
Chrysler mounted the oil sensing unit on these motors directly above the oil filter. It is very easy to accidently hook the sensing unit with the oil filter wrench and crack or break it. For anyone whose oil light problem developed right after an oil change, this may be the problem. To change the unit, pry up the plastic retaining clip with a screw driver and unplug the wire harness. If the plastic part of the sensor is broken, (or if you break it to facilitate easy removal), you can remove the sensor with a 27mm socket. Once you have removed it, use a piece of CLEAN pipe cleaner to insure the hole isn't plugged with sludge which could also cause the oil light to come on. Screw in the new unit finger tight, then snug up with a WRENCH. You cannot use the socket to tighten it as it would damage the plastic part of the new sensor. Plug the wire harness back on, then start the engine to make sure it doesn't leak oil around the new unit.