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Re: will not start theft light on and brakes stiff
I THINK this works on the sunfire too. It will not cost you anything to try! Put the key in the driver side door and lock and unlock it 5 times then try to start it. That unlocks many of the newer cars.
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we dont have this engine here, USA.
but i have the WG jeep book,
starting page 12 , chapter 14
FUEL INJECTION PUMP BLEEDING
(1) If the fuel injection pump has been replaced,
air should be bled at the overflow valve before
attempting to start engine.
(a) Loosen the overflow valve (Fig. 18) at the
rear of the injection pump.
(b) Place a towel below the valve.
WARNING: WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE TO
BLEED AIR FROM THE INJECTION PUMP, THE
ENGINE MAY START. PLACE THE TRANSMISSION
IN NEUTRAL OR PARK AND SET PARKING BRAKE
BEFORE ENGAGING THE STARTER MOTOR.
CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for
more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow 2 minutes
between cranking intervals.
(2) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to
allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out
the fuel injector drain tubes. Continue this procedure
until the engine starts. Observe the previous WARNING
(3) Tighten overflow valve.
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINE BLEEDING
WARNING: THE INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES HIGH-
-PRESSURE FUEL OF APPROXIMATELY 45,000 KPA
(6,526 PSI) TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR
THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL
UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE
THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE
CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH
FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE
WARNING: DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL
SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE. DO NOT ALLOW FUEL
TO SPRAY ONTO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WHEN
BLEEDING AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM.
Bleed air from one injector at time.
(1) Loosen the high-pressure fuel line fitting at
the injector (Fig. 19).
(2) Crank the engine until all air has been bled
from the line. Do not operate the starter motor
for longer than 30 seconds. Wait 2 minutes
between cranking intervals.
(3) Start the engine and bleed one injector at a
time until the engine runs smoothly.
pump timing is on next page
or tank filter line priming before. above.
It is possible to have fuel pressure and have injectors that are completely closed. There are light testers that plug into the injector harness to check the pulse to open an injector. Available at autoparts with Tool loaner program.
Try starting fluid to see if it wants to run, If it does, then injectors are not opening, then find cause like camshaft sensor. At that point, like other Expert said, it could be Vacuum leak.
Will not turn over can mean several things. Is it cranking? Is it engaging and not moving the engine? If the starter is not moving then you have to go through the interlocks with brake pedal and shifter. But these work after the engine runs and would not cause it to stall.
Try the starting fluid and see if the spark is working, then shift to fuel delivery if it tries to start.
a car will run fine with most evap system broken so thats not problem if turns over but wont start ck for spark, fuel power to fuel injectors any ground wires you may have ran into running hoses . the anti theft and ecm also .
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/ Go to that link. You are exactly right. The engine swap has confused the anti theft security system. It can disable the starter and/or the injectors/fuel. There are ways to bypass these systems. You can do it yourself too. Ive personally done dozens of these bypasses, and they work great. Good luck
Check out this link. This is a common problem with GM vehicles. They have an antitheft system installed already, when they start to get old, the anti theft engages and turns off things like starters, fuel pumps, injectors, ect. This link explains it all and gives you some options to fix this yourself forever. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/
Is the check engine light on in the vehicle? Does the engine start up right away if you apply the gas
It sounds like you either have a clogged air filter, a dirty throttle body, or a fuel system problem.t sounds like you either have a clogged air filter, a dirty throttle body, or a fuel system problem. If it is cranking at a good speed, then problem has to be with the ignition (spark) and/or fuel-air.
Actual spark plug problems usually manifest in rough idle and loss of power (typically one plug at a time goes bad). Fuel problem occurs when injectors get clogged or when you are out of gas. The air problem is typically due to some sensor causing the ecu to mess up the air ratio.
For diagnosis, I would recommend a visit to the dealer. It is lot better /cheaper to drive it to the dealer on its own power. It seems like "cold" start problem. Has it ever given you problem when the engine is hot?
Finally, check the theft or immobilizer systems, anti-theft kills the spark. You can try removing all other
keys/magnets from your key ring (to avoid interference) or try starting
with the spare key (master/valet both should work).
You need to explain to me what you mean by "fuel injectors engage". Fuel injectors have nothing to do with the starter engaging with the engine and turning it over. You need to take the car to a place that can load test the battery for you. An autoparts store usually can do that for you. Or, if car can not be moved, take the battery out of the car to have it tested. Start there, then we can move on to other possibilities.
check to see if the security light or anti theft light flashes. if that is the case, sounds like the bypass for the remote starter may be causeing the no start by tripping the anti theft system. Remove remote starter and bypass system and join any cut wires back together that may be cut for remote starter. Try starting, if theft light still flashes leave key in the on position after attempted start for 15 minutes till theft light goes solid, turn off and try again. Repeat process for three times to re-learn factory theft system in vehicle. If problem still persists, then take to your local dealer to reprogram factory theft module in the cluster.