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Re: 2003 Windstar, break light comes on wont go off.
Have you had the brake light switch checked out or replaced yet? It is located just above your brake pedal. almsot looks like a push button switch. These switches have a tendancy of breaking down and sometime they just need to be re-adjusted. the switch is not all that expensive but could be a little tricky replacing it. best of luck and let me know if this helps you out.
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what does ford dealer say about the issue? call the service guy, if he sez" bring it in", do not bother. pull off both the + and - battery cables. Let stand for a few minutes, clean the battery posts while u wait. clean inside of cable connections. put a lil Vaseline on the battery posts. then reconnect. if no-start condition still exists, hav car scanned. advanced auto will scan for free?! lol.
The flashing and rough running is to to a misfire or misfires cause by arcing due to moisture on ignition components. Eventually these misfires can lead to other problems such as damage catalytic converter. Start by identifying which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring. The arching can be reproduced with a spray bottle filled with soapy water. Spray the ignition components (wires, coils, distributor cap...)and look for the vehicle to idle rough. Replace any faulty component.
Before replacing alternator testing should be done , is there B+ voltage at the heavier gage wire on the back of the alternator . Could have a blown fuse or fusible link . Your vehicle from what you have posted , isn't charging . Plus there is a regular fuse located in the under hood fuse box F1.13 - 10 amp this supply's B+ voltage to the orange with lit blue stripe wire at the three wire connector plugged into the alternator . The other two wires come from the PCM - engine computer . This charging system is computer controlled . Ford PCM controlled alternator testing
Hello, It could be what you said. But if you know the Voltage was too high, you may want to replace the Ignition Relay and the Fuel pump Relay. If the contact points are cooked, they could work intermittently and it would be difficult to test. A bump or a little overheating could cause the contact points to break loose and then work when they cool.
It is good that the "check lights" are off. I always tell my clients that the scans are free at Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance. Some things like Relays may not trigger a light.
Be careful with a Wiggle test, but you may find a short in the wiring by shaking the wiring under the hood. I doubt the Voltage Regulator is causing your current stalling problem. A fully charged Battery without a Regulator or an Alternator would provide an amount of reliable power until the Battery was drawn down.
It sounds like the solenoid that activates the starter is activating, but there isn't enough juice to turn the motor. You say the lights come on, but test it by putting on the interior light, then put on the headlights, if the interior light dims or goes out the battery is almost certainly dead. It might be that you left something on and the battery drained, but sadly, poor batteries will fail completely in cold weather and that's end of life. First step is a jump start from a neighbour. If that starts it, run the vehicle around for half an hour and see if that has recharged the battery. When you come to turn it off to test it, PARK ON A GOOD HILL! Then if the battery is still dead, you can use the hill to roll down and bump start the vehicle (IF ITS A MANUAL OF COURSE). If the jump start fails, If the lights remain on and bright when you test, then you have a starter fault (Probably the starter motor its self). Expect it to be the battery. What you describe is a 90% probability that it is the battery
There are fail safe's with remote starters here is the list of things to check
Hood Switch: Designed so the car wont start with the remote if your hood is opened. (If this goes bad your remote start will think the hood is open and wont start your car!)
Break Switch: It will shut the car off if someone pushes on the break without a key in the ignition so no one just drives off with your car.(if this is bad it could be reading that your brake peddle is being pushed without a key in the ignition)
And Finally The Time Out.: This is designed so if you start your car and forget about it, you dont use all your gas or let the car run all day, typically they shut off after 20 minutes.(Your timer is programed into the main control box, If your timer goes bad it can cause the whole remote system to fault.
Anyway hope this helps. Check your switches before you presume that the unit is shot!
if you have noise coming from the pads sometimes this is caused by dust, an easy fix is to take to the car wash and pressure wash the wheels to remove the dust. as for the intermittent abs light may be a bad level sensor for the reservoir. which would in any a need for immediate repair, so that real problems will be evident and you will not just ignore the light.