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The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails(Bosch simply makes great fuel pumps). A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... give it a quick tap with a wrench. For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (while power is going to the pump). If the pump is bad, often the tap will make it come to life and it may stay running until you shut it off. This trick can get you back on the road and get you home in an emergency. If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this will NOT work as there will be no power going to your pump. If this is the case, you might try the below relay bypass "jump" trick to get power going to the pump. TESTING YOUR FUEL PUMP How to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit at your Volvo 240 fuse panel:The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's kick panel).
You can make a jumper from a wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jump the circuits on the right side of the fuses for best results For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7. For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit #4 to #6.
If the main fuel pump doesn't begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming), you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is really common under an old 240, near the pump). This test of course assumes your battery is good. If one of the fuses blows during this test, the pump circuit wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump.
You're going to need to have 2 people for this. One of you is going to need to rapidly pull up on the outside door handle(kind of in a snapping fashion) and the other will need to push from the inside. Eventually this door will come open. Once this happens, replace the latch assembly. Any local salvage yard may have these.
It's worse than that. Those are not "tamper-proof screws", those are aluminum pop rivets. (Then again, they are even more tamper-proof than screws.) Once you get the door panel off you will see that each rivet splits into four legs that splay out to hold the speaker frame sandwiched between the grill and the fiberboard door panel. You can remove them but it took me some time with stout needle-nosed pliers to un-splay the legs, and ultimately a Dremel tool to cut them off. What a cheap PITA way to attach a speaker.
Theoretically, you should be able to replace the OEM speaker with a skinny 4" one but you will need to fabricate an adapter ring so there is something solid on which to mount the new speaker. Also, you will need to tape flat Tinnerman nuts to the back side of the panel so the screws you shoot through the grill will have something to bite into. It won't be pretty but it should work.