Re: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no...
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to inspect the feed line if the return line is squezed or kinked in any place it will impede return and the cylinder will seem stuck. If the lines are servicable remove the cylinder and bench test and bleed. it might be a burr left in the cylinder. Also check travel of the pedal without the system in place. Finally When I replace one of these units I have to bleed it out of the vehicle with another person holding the slave cylinder because there is no bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If you removed the little brass screw you broke it. I find there is no way to get out all the air unless the slave cylinder is held verticle with consant pressure applied to the throw arm. Then when bled reinsert into vehicle.
There should have been a clip to secure the bearing on the fork shaft. Was it secure?? Clutch may not engage if clutch master cylinder or clutch slave have not been properly bled. There is no adjustment on hydraulic systems. Bleed again if necessary. .
there is a bleeder screw by the transmission slave cylinder that you bleed the air out.just pump the clutch pedal a few times hold the pedal to the floor and have someone crack open the bleeder screw to bleed the air out then close it and repeat.make sure the master cylinder for the clutch doesn`t go low.
The easiest way to deal with this problem is to order the complete preblead slave cylinder kit. You can, just go with a new slave cylinder but because of the age of the other parts. You may run into other problems down the road. Why have to do it twice. To replace the slave cylinder only: Its easy, just carefully push/remove the small metal pin that hold the plastic line to the slave cylinder. then push-in and turn counterclockwise, to remove slave cylinder. Then install new slave cylinder and reverse the procedure. Now bleeding the system will take a while. But all you will do is just keep pumping the clutch pedal until the pedal returns.
If you have bled the system, you are down to either having a bad clutch master cylinder, or a bad clutch slave cylinder. You could eliminate the slave cylinder by removing the line and capping it off, and if you have a firm pressure on the clutch pedal ( don;'t try to push it down, just check for pressure!) then your slave cylinder is bad. If you cap off the line, and bleed the system, and the pedal still has no pressure, then your clutch master cylinder is bad!
There are two types of clutch actuators. (Mechanical & Hydtraulic)
A. For mechanical type,- Check the clutch cable as
this could be cut from wear and tear. This is easy
to replace. You can find this connected to the
pedal and the clutch lever near the transmission.
B.For hydraulic operated - Check the level of the
hydraulic oil at the cylinder of the hydraulic
actuator under the hood. This actuator is
directly connected to the pushrod driven by the
pedal. If the actuator is leaking, you have buy
a repair kit (Hyraulic clutch repair kit for Ford
Ranger 1994 MOdel.) These items must be
repaired to activate your pedal.