Trying to get the trans out with out removing the motor
I have 10hrs left until my dead line please help i have the botom 4 bolts loose but i can get to the top bolts i call the previous owner and he told me that he pulled the motor to do it i would rather not do that
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Re: trying to get the trans out with out removing the...
With the tranny mount removed lower the back of the engine and tranny as far as you can.......from the back of the tranny you should be able to see the two top bolts and a series of extensions will allow you to get them loosened
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backside of radiator you will see the fan shroud and fan assembly.
4 - 10mm bolts (one on each corner) will be holding it in place.
Remove the bolts (this will take some time as these bolts are in very tight areas) once the bolts are removed, very carefully pull the trans cooler line out of its mounting on the fan shroud (bottom drivers side of the shroud)
Pull fan and shroud out thru the top (be very careful wiggling it out, you do not want to break the shroud)
Once out, remove the fan motor (4 bolts and a round clip holding it in place)
Replace in reverse order.
1 jack car up far enough to work under car use jack stands to support care during work for safety 2 Disconnect all fluid lines and electrical wires. 3 Disconnect trans from engine leave one bolt loosen on right and left side 4 place floor jack trans for support 5 disconnect drive shaft from transmission (there are two point in this process disconnect from rear axle housing an slide the drive line out from trans if this does not work disconnect drive line ujoint closes to trans also 6 Disconnect any trans linkage and supports remove bolts from trans engine connection while supporting the trans with floor jack. while removing trans pull backward and be aware that the toque converter is in the front housing of trans and will fall out if front of trans is facing to far downward. I recommend you use an auto manual to read up on this process before taking it on.
you need to remove the strut lower ball joint and the trans mount then remove the motor mount from front of opisite side frame rail to allow motor to rotate
then trans will drop about 4-6 inches undo the bolts slowely arround the bell housing when all bolts out shake the bastard it will slowely slip off
remember to jack the car up high i usualy go 2 feet off the ground with swifts and geo remove the cluch cable and i believe the starter stays in place just need to undo the bolts \
this job takes about 3 hours start to finish trans drops out the botom and goes in the same way use a small jack to suport the trans untill all bolts out and dont forget to use your ball joint fork to pop the drive shafts out of the trans and btw use new fluid to replace3 your losses on the ground c
and if all else fails buy a chilton book they are a god send
Check all your vacume lines for leeks.If there are no leeks then may have a bad modulater.There will be one vacume line that goes down your fire wall to your trans.Where the vacume line plugs in,this is your modulater and controls your shifting.The part runs anywhere from $10-15 for a new one and most just screw into the trans or have a fork retainer with a single bolt.This only applies on gas motors.Well good luck and hope this helps.,
Only 2 ways that I know of....
Easiest: Suction the fluid via the dip stick tube using a drill pump (about 4 bucks at Harbor Freight or on line).
Less Easy: Remove all but one of the transmission pan bolts. With a large container under the pan, loosen the last bolt until you can pry the pan loose.... let the fluid run into the container. When it is empty, retighten that last bolt and then reinsert the removed bolts. The pan gasket should not leak when new fluid is poured into the dip stick tube (check it after about a quart is added... and snug the bolts either side of any leak).
You will need lots of blocking, a small 2 ton trolley jack,and a torque wrench, and some patience. Under the hood disconnect the trans lines from the rad and unbolt the dipstick tube so it can move. Get the front wheels of the truck about 8" off the ground and onto some jack stands or heavy blocking, you will need the room. Block the wheels and remove the driveshaft first. Move up and take the transmission mount off.You'llhave to jack the rear of the trans to get the mount out but it needs to be so you can slide the trans back. If it won't lift high enough you'll have to lower the trans crossmember, but put it back loosely when the mount is off. Remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the trans and the starter. If you disconnect the power cable from the battery you can just unbolt the starter and hang it out of the way without disconnecting it. Put the truck in neutral and disconnect the torque converter bolts through the inspection plate. use a large screwdriver to rotate the assembly to get all the bolts. there should be three. DON'T LOSE THEM. They are a special order item at the dealer. Put the jack under the trans, in line with the driveshaft with a piece of 2x4 on top of it the length of the pan or longer, and jack it up to touch the trans. Unbolt the trans from the engine. Build some blocking up beside the jack on both side to touch the trans and pull it back from the motor.This is where the patience comes in. Wiggle and pry and use the jack work the trans back, you should be able to 4-6 inches to work in. Use some wire and run it across the torque converter so it won't slide out. Remove the flywheel. When you replace the flywheel torque the bolts to 60 lbs. If you over tighten them the center of the flywheel will start to crack and break.
Slide the transmission back to the motor, remove the wire when you are close.If you can't get the trans tight the torque converter may have slide out. You will have to pushon it and turn it at the same time and it will click into place. Put your bolts back in the trans loosely,leave the jack in place for adjustment and remove the blocking. Put your torque converter bolts back in and tighten them. Tighten your trans and put everything back together. Hope this helps.
pretty simple if its the 4.0l start with the radiator next the fan go under the truck disconect exsaust at manifold dis connect trans case if you have a 4 wheel drive this takes alot of weight and length of the trans disconnect all wires and lines to trans since your under there both drive shafts go to top disconnect all wires lines fuel lines ect. next break the motor mounts u wont be able to take these out til u get your cherry picker conected up and get pressure of the bolts. pull motor mount bolts and raise the engine a little. gounder the truck again u might want a jack under the trans drop cross member start pulling
The engine/transmission drops out the bottom as a unit after removing the drive axle half-shafts, wiring, hoses, fuel lines, linkages, and lastly, the support crossmembers and mounting bolts. Once out of the car, the engine and transmission can be separated by removing all of the bolts attaching the torque converter to the engine flex-plate (Where the starter ring gear is attached, like a flywheel but little mass); the flex-plate (and crankshaft) will have to be rotated to access all of these bolts... then remove the bolts mounting the bellhousing to the engine.
Make sure the torque converter stays in place on the tranny nose shafts... if it come loose, it could damage the converter or the shafts, and it can be difficult to reinstall.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have other questions, and GOOD LUCK!